tejcurrent

I'd still like a pair in the larger size, maybe after that first quarter - if all goes well? (22)

Nice air movement! Hoping to join the team soon

You could seal your trunk lid, then fiberglass the entire inside of your trunk. This would make the trunk lid useless, but you could lay in there and put a few layers of 'glass and mat. This would be only if you never planned on using your trunk again, so I would try to construct a box inside your trunk- like cut pieces then assemble inside the trunk.

With almost double the power the 3.5k amp should be audibly louder. You have to decide if you want to spend the money to upgrade your alternator and add batteries plus more wire and everything involved with running more power. No offense intended but since you're asking this question chances are you should familiarize yourself with 2kw first, get some experience, then move up if you want more output down the road.

Great job! *Edit - read your sig. Really close scores there.

I have a fluke 36 clamp meter (Similar to the 336 or 337), but a "nice" home depot DMM. For very light use it wont matter that much, but Fluke is more reliable and accurate than many meters. I've never heard a complain about fluke (other than price), I've never regretted spending the extra money on good tools, but I've always kicked myself later when I cheap out.

There are topics similar to this on other forums, the closest things you can do easily is with a clamp meter and 2 DMMS. It's not perfect- doesn't take into account or help find out if the signal is clipped. If you've already set with an O-scope I guess that wouldn't be an issue. Put one DMM on the amp battery power + and - to find out DC voltage (not important for calculations, just nice to know). Put the other DMM on the + and - speaker output of the amp, set to A/C voltage. Put the clamp meter on the amps speaker output + set to A/C Amperage. Throw in a test cd, do each frequency one at a time, write down the a/c voltage and amperage. Take the voltage and square it, then divide by the voltage divided by the amperage: Amperage = A, Voltage = V V^2 / (V / A). Example: 30 hz: 152V / 31.2A = 4.87 Ohms 152v ^2 / 4.87 = 4744.15 watts. Hope this helps, again it's not perfect but about the best the average person could do.

More than likely you will not be able to audibly tell the difference between 3000 and 3200 watts anyway, though those amps should be able to do 800w per sub with no problems. If you're charging system is good enough I have heard of huge numbers from strapped pairs. I would make sure your charging system could keep up with the 3k watts total and go with it. You should notice a nice increase in output.

Adding some features can allow the sub to handle a bit more power. If you aren't very sure I would stick around 1500rms or less, though it is totally dependent on your setup.

It appears damaged. Cone/spider area looks like it's separated.

i figured it out saz 3500 and two xcons thanks for your advice see you in the lane lol See me in what lane? DB Drag maybe? Competition lanes.

With 3 30 amp fuses, and the size of the quantum amp I can't see it putting out much more than 1000 watts rms. From my experience with the cozmik line they are all extremely over rated amps. I would sell and go with something that will give your sub at least the 2000 rated. The sundown 2000, hifonics 2600, American Bass 200.1, Rockford 2500 or 2000. There are many many other amps, I've really enjoyed using American Bass.

http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html Good little read on parallel vs series. Series is - on the amp connected to the - of one terminal. That terminals + should be connected to the - on the other terminal. Finally connect + of that + to the amp. So + to amp +, - to other side +, - to amp -. If this doesn't make sense a quick Google image search will get you a good visual depiction of what to do. How you will wire things depends on the amp you will get and your coil configuration. Why don't you post what you are trying to accomplish- all of the equipment you plan on using etc. It will help with future answers. While a voice coil may say it is 2 ohms, often it can vary quite a bit, many are around 1.5-1.7 ohms. This rarely matters for daily use.

x2 Offers like this say a lot about a company- and their dedication to customer service.

lol, wow. I threw my packaging away, but pack things extremely tight, with at least 4+ inches of solid foam on each side. Never had a problem shipping like this. I just hate having a bunch of boxes laying around the garage - bugs and rodents like cardboard, and I always find a use for scrap 2x4s lol. Great vid

I would probably say neither as it seems like both will need more space than your giving them. How much room do you have put an enclosure in? What kind of an enclosure, is this going to be a wall? It seems like your just trying to throw as many subwoofers in there as you can, which is not smart to do unless yuo have the right space for them. I have enough room to put in a 23^3 box it will ether have a slot port or aero's 23' and 4 18s should work.

4 12s, because 4 18s would not do well in a 12ft ported box.

Just an update, with 3 yellow tops and 2 Memphis MCD-4KWs on my factory alt I did 152 and change @ 42hz at the first competition I attended. I upgraded to the point that it wouldn't be relevant to discuss in this review, but I'm still pleased with my BTLs. I now have the 2 subs on one American Bass 1000.1, about 5000wrms each. I still have to upgrade from my current dual alt setup to get the full power of this amp, but they are doing great on the power they are getting. The current box is 10ft net tuned to 36hz, and while it still sounds good it does not have the output of the larger boxes. I still have some power left to go, but I will hopefully get this setup metered before I rebuild again. Here's a link to a short video of a paper trick, though I haven't had time to test and tune. I zoomed on the sun roof because it flaps open about 1/4 inch, and the gap of light was not there before I started shooting vid. It's short so I wouldn't get neighbors angry at me.

If you are trying to compare the peak rating of the BTL to another companies "peak" then you should just look at the rms of both. Peak ratings are exaggerated and don't mean much of anything, so base all of your equipment off the rms so you can compare apples to apples. If you are looking at a "peak" rating to compete with box building skill and your pockets will be the biggest determining factors. I've put about 5kw rms on one for music with no issues, but some people put 10,000 watts + on them for comps. There are countless BTL power threads on this forum if you use the search function, but posting some of your goals and the reason you want to know this info may help people give you a response that will hopefully answer your question. Just beware that anything rated with just peak ratings is not worth looking into more. Best luck.

I gained quite a bit from sub up port back configuration. If there is not danger of damaging the sub due to stuff hitting it you might want to try sub drivers side- port back. I've had more than one competitor tell me they gained in a tahoe/yukon this way. I believe I gained around 1-1.5 db going from 8ft net @ 32hz sub/port back - to the sub up port back with 7.5ft net @ 36hz in my 01 tahoe. I did several changes in a short period of time so don't quote me. I positioned the port pretty close to the tailgate, so I think 36hz tuning was a bit lower, once in the vehicle, but for the sound difference I liked the gain on the meter.

Sometimes people need an ass-whuppin' in order to learn. M5 has helped me out in the past with very direct answers to my questions. My truck broke down once and my brother came and helped me - he wasn't the most pleasant person at the time because he was angry at my incompetence and that I did not know how to fix a simple problem, but he helped me a lot. When you know what you're talking about, have explained it multiple times, yet people still ask the same questions repeatedly- opening their mouths before reading I can see where frustration could really manifest.

Dear god, I just bought 4 idler pulleys and a belt to start designing the quad setup and was amazed at the cost. Napa has nice stuff but sweet Jesus. Anyway, things are at a stand still till I design the bracket and get more cash. I'll be designing the setup this weekend if weather permits, then shipping to be machined. I know some companies offer a bracket, but I want my shot too

Sure thing.

I took short vids because people get angry when I play too long- have to keep moving. I'll take some more when I can go to the boonies. First one uploaded, waiting on the second:

Thanks, charging the camera up for tomorrow. It's a nice (12meg) camera, but takes terrible vids that show next to no movement, regardless of how much things are flexing. I couldn't do any listening or testing tonight because the 1 amp fuse for my line driver burned up. Bought a 20a replacement, so I'll be good to go tomorrow.