tejcurrent

These pics were taken with my phone because I forgot my camera at home. I have to upload the ones from my camera so I'll post these in the mean time. Today I assembled the box completely, I just have to throw some terminals in (using bolts again) and the subs/wiring. Started with the bottom and sides Back wall, indented to fit over the amp rack. 3/4 round over on the face at the port opening And the front is on Ready for the top and to cut some holes. Got a new toy a few weeks ago I've been dying to use. I've had a rotozip, but there was a set on sale with tons of attachments at Lowes one day. It's a circle jig for the rotozip that cuts up to 20" diameter holes. Small review: If you don't have a jasper or good router jig, but have a rotozip buy this. It's like $20 by itself, and can be helpful. It is extremely easy to use, and pretty accurate. On the downside it has a tendency to start drifting off it's mark after a while, but not bad. The base for the rotozip is adjustable in height so you can sort of plunge, but without the plunge router bass it isn't very sturdy so you may have some dimples in your perfect holes. Overall it's pretty quick, small, and better than a jigsaw. First hole in the first layer. I'll have more pictures as soon as I get them off my camera and resize them. Some time tonight.

Thanks, we've been together 7 years now, dated through part of high school, she's been great. We still have quite a while on the kids, but it will be a long time before they will actually hear things. I didn't get much done today, only had an hour or so, but tomorrow the fun starts. I have a friend who should be getting me some 1/2" copper buss bars, but till then I decided not to use fuse holders, just 1/4" aluminum buss bars. The amp needs 800-1000 amps of fusing depending on who you talk to and where you're reading, I have 250s and 200s so I'm debating what to use. I never thought I'd get to use my 12" miter saw that works good on masonry and metal, it was like Christmas to get to use it for once lol. 2 bars cut to fit Mocked up to figure out where to drill things. The aluminum bars over the amp aren't screwed in place, so things look crooked but it's straight now. They're just extra security, whatever it's worth. Almost how I want it, it's temporary till the copper comes in. The fuse holders were really just plastic with a bolt to hold wire and fuse together, so this has about 100x more metal regardless. I have gotten my moneys worth out of this saw. Cut everything so tomorrow all I have to do is assemble. I used a circular saw for the last box, honestly I will never again if I don't have to, it's just so much faster to use the table saw. And perfect cuts every time is nice too. Assembly tomorrow, I can't even hook things up till the rest of my wire comes in so I might be driving around with subs and amp just not even fully hooked up

The wife is not thrilled lol She hated the 4 18s, but I told her I'm not going to sell everything off. If I have it sitting around the house cluttering things up I may as well install it, right? After year of riding around unable to put anything in the back of the vehicle this is a good compromise in my opinion, though she'd be happy if I restored everything to the way it was from the factory. I usually turn the subs entirely off when my wife is a passenger anyway, and I plan to do that with my children. For anyone thinking of going down that route- I'm much smarter than to subject my kids to that kind of music volume, I listen to talk radio most of the time with the family in the car anyway. Thanks guys!

I'm running Mechman at the moment, 250a unit is rated around 160-170 at idle. I'm running 2 alts now, but will probably go to 3 or 4. The dc alts are rated 180 idle for the 270, but I believe there are larger units that do more than 200 at idle. I really don't want to speak for the product till I've bought and tried it though. This amp is miserable! It looks awesome, but moving 70 + lbs around gently and without scuffing/scratching it is not very easy. Thanks!

I am downgrading to have room for my work/ new children. I removed almost everything about a year ago and finally have time to put things in. I have a 6 month old and another on the way, so I have to haul around a lot of kid stuff right now, as well as tools and equipment for work. Box will be ~10ft net with about 115sq of port. It's a bit small, but I need 1/2 of the back for cargo, and I figure it should be fine with the power I'm planning on using and box rise and all. I will have 10 runs of 1/0- Knu Fleks, Shok industries. Only 4 D 3100s for now, but I will be running good alt power. For now I have 2 alts and an MLA module (300a @ idle, 15.6v), soon to be going with DC Power and ~ 700amps @ idle. If I need more batteries with that much alt power I will add as needed, but I don't have the budget at the moment. Equipment: 2 oldschool BTL 18s ('06) American Bass 1000.1 Realm 6.5s (considering 3-way active) Eclipse 4ch (don't remember model) Alpine h/u 9831 Not worth mentioning the rest. Slow start today, got the battery rack and amp rack built, the majority of the wood is cut, just need to do the finish cuts and assemble tomorrow. Then wire everything up the next day probably. Temporary alt setup: More to come in the next few weeks. My goals here are to leave plenty of room to haul, with 150+ @ 30hz. Any comments/advice are appreciated.

Can you give an idea of maximum dimensions? For instance trunk w/ 20" height, or suburban where you still might want the box to be the width of the vehicle so you have some room, or at least so it's not 39" and your back is 49" wide.

So if you just throw a 2nd amp in there you'd have to run it at 2 ohms each, or .5 ohms? Either way you'd either potentially damage an amp, or end up with 2 amps putting out similar power to what you have right now. I'd look for new amps if you want more power.

I see, just thought I'd throw that out there since so many people have odd-ball shirt requests. I will definitely be picking up one of those black hoodies with a shirt or 2 if they just have plain text like the tees.

Leaving town soon, I'll be ordering a few when I get back. Have you guys considered selling like Iron ons for T-shirts? I'd love to have a black polo or something with just a 1" Fi logo on the front.

714

Edit: Don't know why this posted?

that is the old btl the new one has a single slug magnet Exactly. They stopped the 3 slug design a while back, the new BTLs have a single slug that is supposed to be stronger.

I've had a lot of people tell me to break a sub in gradually turning it up for days, but it can take weeks. It took about a month for my BTLs to really break in. I had no problems giving them full power right from the box. Just listen to music like normal and it will break in gradually. Hope the shop helps you out, seems like they are avoiding you while they figure out what they're going to say to get out of it. Good luck.

It will probably go down quite a bit unless you are upgrading your front stage to compensate for how much louder it will be. As far as the sub itself, the 15" Q sounds just as good as the 12 to me.

Brakes are nice to have I would make sure you can fit an 18 in the trunk with everything, you may want to wait. What sort of electrical upgrades are you doing? What amp?

If you have 8 cubes or more do 2 15s. if you have more than 5 cu ft but less than 8 do one 18. If you have less stick to the 15 you have and get a better amp/build a better box. If you can post the usable dimensions of your trunk, budget, system goals I'm sure you will get some more in depth answers.

If things are set up right I doubt you'll hear much difference between the two amps. The RF is better quality, but not really higher power. Now with the 3000 you'll hear a nice increase in output.

Should be fine, mine worked well for the price.

Yeah, sounds good. I normally go to the shows in sumter when I can, I just don't have a setup in the vehicle right now (waiting to build). I have a huge problem with my headliner rattling, that's on the list to deaden.

What sort of charging system do you have for that amp? It sounds like you clipped it to death, did you measure the voice coils? No offense, but if it smells burned you were not being responsible. Just because you had the gain 1/2 way does not mean anything, there are many other factors. I don't believe there is a warranty due to the nature of the sub. Sounds like time to recone.

It's worth it I'm in MB SC, where are you? I'd say it is as effective after 2+ coats as one layer of mat. I applied the mat in the center of each panel and that made a huge difference even though it wasn't fully covered. The 2+ coats on top of that were just icing on the cake. If you're doing large flat panels the mat may be quicker, but I spend so much time trying to prevent air bubbles and roll it down it is quicker to spray. It's hard enough to clean inside the panels let alone try to smooth mat down in places I can hardly see with a mirror. From now on I'm just going to buy enough to do 2-3 coats of spectrum and call it a day. except for the roof because I see that being messy.

Thanks. 20+ 5% makes it nice and cool in the sun. REALLY hard for thieves to look in too. I didn't want it too dark since I drive at night often, and this was perfect. I think the tint makes a difference of about 15+ degrees when the car is left sitting in the sun.

I would add a 2nd sub at 1ohm per amp. Unless you can sell your equipment and get a lot of money for each item you would be better off keeping your current amps and just buying one more sub. You would not gain much by switching to the sundown amp for normal listening imo. If you do 1/2 ohm on the sundown with a huge charging system you would probably gain a bit, but you would need a really good electrical setup. Not sure how stable the 4500s are at .5 ohm either. Rodney, if people got their amps 3 weeks into the following month, the amps due in July should not be ready 4 months late.

I would get a recone. If the 2010 is like the older models it won't hold 1/2 ohm long enough to meter well (1/2 a second tops). Not going to rag on you about the SPL version for daily, but it may be worth it to sell the sub and just buy a new one with the options you need. If you are looking to do a SPL setup maybe buying a 2nd amp and running one per coil would be better for burps. It would like the power. Best luck.

Congrats on the purchase. I would like to see a build log when you get everything situated. I'm pleased with my BTLs, it's a problem though- once you get one you want more