tejcurrent

1. How old are you?22 2. When did you get into car audio?When I got my first car, 15 I think 3. How did you first get into car audio?I really liked Crystal Methods "Vegas" CD a knew something was missing. 4. Whats your favorite colorRed, shade depends 5. Male or female?Male 6. Your first Car?1994 Toyota Corolla 8. How did you find out about this site?When I was trying to find out about the new brand Fi lol 9. What was your first system?Sony Xplode Deck, infinity ref speakers, 2 sealed type-r 10s on a free amp 11. Were do you live? South Carolina 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? Subs/amps? The only companies that provide everything I don't like everything from. I like Fi subs. 15. Who is your hero in the car audio industry?Scott Atwell 16. Whats your dream system?A crap ton of BTL 18s in an Excursion with 3000+rms, and enough alts people will think my hood scoop is for a supercharger 17. Whats your dream car?I really like the cadillac 16s styling (And power). The V10 BMW M5s are nicccee. 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in?I've riden in a viper, but only at highway speeds. I had my mustang gt over 150 in 4th gear with plenty of power left, just no road. 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products?The internet. The new owner at Carolina Audio nearby is really cool, so I've been starting to go there for things too. 20. What is your job?I do lots of things. Realtor, CPO, home remodeling and repairs, property management, webmaster, programming. Just depends on what I can get paid for. I need a steady job I guess lol. 21. Whats your favorite saying?Don't really have one 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars?Eh, I like chevy more than most, but it really depends on the model 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's?SUVs 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased?Large? I'm buying some 280a alts soon. If literally the most recent I'd say a double cheeseburger 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA?Ehh... Depends on the topic. There's tons of great people. 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment?154.9/4 BTL 18s on 4 memphis 4ks turned down really really low on stock charging (lucky 6000rms), Still well over 150 at 30hz. Getting ready to upgrade the charging system. 33. SQ or SPL? why? SPL- it's fun

I think the silverado would most likely have more room under the hood for the electrical upgrades. It most likely would be able to support the daily weight of a big system like that better, and I'd want the bass in the truck I'm driving instead of parked somewhere.

You could either run alternators with adjustable internal voltage regulators, or run external voltage regulators if you wanted to have the option of 16v charging. Either way your alternator on a 16v system should really be putting out more like 17v+ so it's keeping your batteries charged. I don't know if the kicker amps can handle it- you could contact customer support at kicker and they should know, but the sundown 1500s would be fine on it if you don't have the amps yet.

I have talked to Dom Iraggi and I know for sure I am getting his 4 alt bracket. I've had multiple people who I trusted tell me to run at least one 200a or smaller alternator in order to support my normal car functions. After talking to Dominick Iraggi he told me to get 4 260amp alternators, that they would supply me with the most power for my daily driving setup, since they have great idling amperage and I would never see full power without reving the engine (which I wouldn't do). I know plenty of guys on here run 300a alts and bigger, so thats where my conflict comes in there. I want to make sure I'm giving my amps as much power as possible, and I'm willing to go as small or big as I need to. I just got off the phone with someone at powermaster, and they said that my best option would be 4 of their 200a alternators w/ adjustable internal voltage regulators, where I could turn the voltage up to 15.0 and just leave it there safely- and that again with a larger alternator it would take high rpms to really take advantage of the higher output. I've also had people tell me that I should go with powermaster over Iraggi, and that the 220 amp powermaster alternators would put out more power than Iraggis 260 amp alternators because of ratings. The way it was explained to me the Iraggis were rated peak while the powermaster were the actual output? This doesn't seem right but I honestly don't know. So for question #1, would 260amp alternators definitely be my best compromise? And question #2, would Iraggi alternators put out more power than powermaster, or vice versa? Anyone with any experience at all please chime in because I hope to be buying them really soon. And for the last part of my question, I'm currently running 5 optima yellowtops for the simple reason that they are the best batteries available in my area. I've found a few places that I'm willing to buy from online, and even driving a few hours away to pick up from. My biggest worry- while I know dropping down to 12v hurts your score, is that if I go lower than that I'll damage my amps. I pray the alternators alone will be enough to keep my voltage above 12v on full tilt, if they can't what other batteries could anyone recommend? And question #3, would different batteries really make all the difference? Thanks a lot, I simply don't have a lot of experience in this area and can use all the advice I can get.

Glad I'm not too far off here, I hoped it came across as a value point more than sheer performance. While some companies simply do have better products than others, that's not to say that it necessarily will be the underground. I run Fi subs, but Memphis amps. I was originally going to run SoundStream 10,000s till I bought one offline and had it burn up the second it was installed (Installed properly, the moment the vehicle was turned on Something was wrong internally- maybe damaged during shipping that caused parts on both sides of the board to burn up.) Memphis had a good warranty and could be bought at the local shop for a good price. After problems with the seller who UPS returned the amp to and he kept the money severing all contact with me and this forum, (you SOB Jordan Singleton), I trusted the local shops amp better than another one purchased offline.

I agree with you, and see your point 100%. There are only a handful of people on this forum, and not a whole lot in general who could give a real break down of what makes driver X sound Z (louder, clearer, etc) over driver A. I am not one of them, but I think the OP was really looking for a more general response and just light conversation. I coud be wrong thats the thinking my response is based on. *edit I haven't had a chance to hear the W7 in a home, is it that big a difference? Just asking because I was considering doing a Q15 or 18 tuned around 15-20hz in my h/t setup.

I live in a smallish town with 3 audio shops, a Circuit City, and a Best Buy. I have seen good things come from all 5 places, but I have also seen some terrible terrible work. None of the shops have a TL or O-scope, and I know for a fact 1 of them doesn't have a DMM. The one without the DMM I have only visited once and that was enough. They showed me a near $2000 front stage installed in a new Yukon Denalli, and I was soo soo dissapointed. Guess what brand it was? JL. Now this does not mean that the equipment was at fault- but something was very very wrong there. A guy I know has 2 JL w6 15s, and they sounded great sealed when he first got them. Then he decided to build his own ported box after asking for my help. I drew him some diagrams and a cut sheet, and for some reason, without any build experience, he decided he would wipe his figurative ass with the box plans I made for him and do it totally different (and I mean REALLY REALLY WRONG). Needless to say his subs sounded terrible until he blew one of them, and then they sounded worse. I have never been impressed with the W7 in terms of SPL or SQ, but Maybe the install was incorrect, I simply don't know. One vehicle had a very nice clean and well thought out install, but his W7 on jl 1000/1 sounded mediocre and wasn't loud at all. I was walking into a local pawn shop (a great place to find hard to find singles and b-sides btw) and saw 2 guys carrying a box with 2 JL 12s. I asked, "what model subs are those?", with a reply, "I dunno, they're JL!". Like that was all you needed to know. It's this love and mentallity that just because they're expensive they're good that kept me from ever buying a JL product. There are other brands I feel the same towards, but it's not that the company makes bad products, just peoples attitude towards them. Around where I live Memphis is the big thing, and it makes me wish I had never bought Memphis amps. I don't know how to say this clearly, so I hope it comes out right. Lots of people think they know how to install their own equipment, and really only learned how to do so because they wanted to save money. Well where's the first place to look for some tips and tricks? The internet. This is also where a lot of people hear about these "underground" companies, and decide from reviews that they can save themselves money by buying something other than what they can get locally. Since most subs are thrown in a pre-fab box at a local shop anyway, even a half-asted box built at home can be equal to or better than what they'd most likely settle for at a store. I own an alpine type-x I installed in my wifes car, and it is a nice SQ sub. I'm giving it around 1000wrms it calls for from a Hifonics 2006d (which since no one has ever carried them around here makes it an underground brand to everyone local). No one carries the type-x around here and I wanted to see what it was like. Also people think spending over 150 a sub is too much, regardless of quailty While the amp isnt' the best in any one feature, it does have a really nice price point (<300 new), so it worked great for my needs and saved some money. The type-x I wish I hadn't bought some 3+ years ago, but it still works flawlessly and does it's job. It sounds wonderful to me in a sealed box, but because SPL is a bit more important to me I went with a daily tuned ported one instead. It still sounds good, but it loses some of it's sq ported. Knowing what I do now I would buy a Q because it would still sound good ported, and would cost less while maybe gaining me a bit on the SPL side. There are several reasons why I am using an "underground company" in my vehicle as the OP said (I have Fi BTL 18s). * Price - The only comparable sub offered from any local shops would be the Kicker solo-X, and at close to 1/2 the price I've been quoted makes it an obvious choice in this catagory. * Availability- NO ONE keeps "super subs" in stock where I live, so there would still be a 2+ week wait time on ordering. If I have to wait, I'd rather order something myself and have it delivered to my door instead of paying some guy to make money off me having it delivered to his shop. * Customer service- smaller internet based companies can offer a level of customer service you'd never see from a giant one. I've spoken through email to the actual men behind designing the equipment at Fi and Sundown- what mainstream brand could ever do that with every person who emails them? Not saying Im special, I'm saying it gives the impression of caring on a personal level. * Exotic factor- Since no one has seen it before, while they often assume it's flee-market junk, it also gives the appeal of people being astounded something other than what they know could be louder or sound good. * Quality- When a company has established itself and has good reviews, you can trust online reviews of an online product as well as any online reviews of a mainstream product. Since most people who spend the time to research "underground" brands often have a slightly higher level of understanding than people who pay someone else to pick their equipment out and install it for them- they give more insightful reviews. Not always true, but somewhat. It is a very vague question so I hope my really vague, round-about answer(s) help some.

Most are happy with sundown 3000s, RF 3000s and 4000s, and I've been pretty pleased with my memphis 4ks.

If 1 of those 10s needs as much air space as your 15 just get another BTL 15 Really though, I'd stick with the BTL and sundown 3000.

x2.

I listed a bunch of amps- some are really good- and some are budget. I have a 2006d that I didn't have any problems with.

would you have a chance to go to a shop with a meter, or a comp with your meter and see how they compare? I don't know if this was asked I didn't want to read 4 pages of debating to get it or not

If you google 'ampguts' you'll find a huge list of amps. Or ebay it. I'm just going to list a bunch of amps that will get the sub moving well between 2-4000 watts, and you can decide what best fits your needs. Hifonics 2607d Hifonics Thor Hifonics Colossus I.A. 40.1 Lanzar Optidrive line (not sure of the models) MA 4000 Massive 3000 Memphis 2000 Memphis 4000 RF 2000 RF 3000 RF 4000 Sundown 3000 and the list goes on and on. There are so many out there, and price will vary greatly from seller to seller, and if you're willing to buy used. If you're willing to buy used equipment check the termpro f/s section, the one on this forum, or even ca.com.

Thanks a lot guys! I'm sorry to say besides h/u that's the only upgrade. She graduates from college in another few months, shortly after we'll be buying a new car for her and it will start all over again. She's happy with her stock speakers, so they are what they are. Honestly I think she wanted the sub in her car just to get it out of the house (she likes things very tidy) lol

Jimj, would you please shoot me a PM when you get a chance about the one in NC when you get a chance? I live in MB SC and that would be worth the drive to me to get one. No one has anything locally, most shops don't even have DMM Thanks a lot.

A local guy has 3 15s in 7 ft sealed. He keeps trying to port it and I tell him, that's no where near enough room to port. He ported it and complained it was louder/better sounding sealed I suggested taking one of the 3 subs out and try it with just 2 ported, but he doesn't want to 'waste' the equipment. You should be good sealed.

Most likely. With that much power I'd get the BTL.

Thanks man! No, you really can't tell, and while it's not where I'd like it, as soon as she gets her new car it'll be a new build (with good wood and some glass )

Fancy fancy! Should be nice.

Triple post somehow?

dblpost

Carpeting the box The trim plate: All carpeted Test fitting the sub I like how clean and simple the jumpers make installation, it's a pointless feature, but saves me a bit of wiring One of the 'vent' holes behind the amp. I'm sure I could put a fan in there but I've checked and theres just no reason for her listening habits: In her trunk She still has plenty of room It's hard to get a good picture, but here it is at night: And the metering: sealed dash and the kick Heres a short video metering Young Jeezy. HbLj2uglTuM I'm sure with a different vehicle, some work, or even with switching to a sub that could run this amp at 1 ohm she could be bass-racing 139.9. It's just not important to her at all, so it's not really a concern. I wasn't expecting it to be even that sealed up in her trunk, so it turned out well. My brother is thinking about selling his 12" BL and going up to a 15 or 18, so maybe I'll be able to swap that out The sub sounds great- its nice and articulate on rock (which is mostly what my wife and I listen to anyway) and gets the lows really good. It sounds very musical and blends in nicely, which being that the sub is really meant for SQ I'd hope so Any comments and thoughts are welcome (criticism too)!

dbl post?

I really wish things were more perfect, but given what I had to work with I'm fairly pleased.. God for $20 bucks lol... Anyway more work. I had someone tell me the box looked pretty big for a 'small' install. That's a matter of relativity. Here's here box next to my port: Cutting the hole for the sub and trim plate. It looks rough because the dust isn't out of the way, but it's routered nicely. Test fitting the trim plate and equipment. Hit the edge with the 3/4 round over Used a jig saw to cut out the port, and 3/4 round. A little paint around the edges Building the 'amp rack' It didn't come with mounting tabs, even seperate in the box. So a little extra work had to go into it: The base it sits on: Wedged tightly in place (trust me it's fine, there's working parts on your car that are held the same way) The piece in question Cutting the hole for the amp to show through:

Ahhh back to nice cuts! I hate this wood for the record lol. My wife still wants me to use it. I had to use screws instead of just glue and clamp with a few finish nails because the wood is sooo warped. I'm literally pulling it straight with every screw. Thats pretty much it for the 'box' portion, and it's on the port. And in place. Just a bit of sanding some of the joints to get them flat where they should be (damn warped wood!) The wood is splitting on me even though its pre-drilled. It's just in such bad condition I'm gluing and clamping split pieces back in place left and right! Anyway, its temporary so it's fine. Anyway, caulking the joints that will be impossible to reach later: Ready for the top: The product so far: I love these lights, they're soo convenient!