tejcurrent

2 12s getting 2kw should have an advantage on 1 15 getting 2kw.

I know it took the memphis 4k for almost an hour of solid slamming, no burning smell or anything, just so much excursion it was a little scary. Personally I don't think I'd want to give them full 4k for long periods of time, but for daily short trips/demos I know it takes the power beautifully.

pinned at top: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7155 enclosure recommendations. If you like the lows tune closer to 30hz, it's a matter of personal preference to me. 1. give yourself around 56sqin of port, since that is 3.5cuftx16, and the largest recommended 2 don't like winisd- not very useful for this imo. Just follow the recommendations in that sticky. 3 what car and what dimensions are you making the box?

I've never had any luck w/ winisd, it always give me strange results. I used to have it on my old laptop before it crashed, never bothered putting it on this one-just waste of space imo.

Alright, I'm about to hit up parts express/home depot, thanks a lot. I need to add some bracing like that-again-nice job.

Has anyone burnt a BTL coil? What wattage and what scenario would you EXPECT a BTL to burn up the voice coil? Maybe. At the Great12 Challenge, a BTL12 took a clamped 10kw for a bit before destroying itself mechanically. It reached mechanical failure... before anything happened to the coil... coil was fine. This was in a ported box, well below tuning as well. Yes, clipping is sending a bad signal to your subwoofer. It heats up the coil much faster when sending a clipped signal. The problem with playing below tuning is, you risk letting the coil dance on the bottom plate. You don't want your subwoofer to bottom out, as it can damage the coil/former. Typically, in a ported box... you're subwoofer will be able to control itself down to a half an octave below tuning... those this isn't always the case. It is still dependent on box size, overall tuning, and power. nG OK, thanks.

I'm not so good at that, but I'll try. Does clipping play a large part in the actual ability of the sub to handle the power? for instance if it will handle 2500watts of clean power, will it also handle this power with say, 10%thd? More/Less? I know I've heard negative things about playing below tuning, but what are the consequences and is there a level where this is safe? Does anyone else with a btl have any comments on the power they are giving it and what it seems happy with? Thanks

No prob, glad to help

Do you have exact measurements? maybe can get an idea on the batt. My yellow top has both top/side posts, don't know if that'll fit yours though. There are terminals you can get at advance or any car store that will add a bolt to a post (just tightens on the top post and adds a bolt). This will allow you to add on a great number of wires- with normal crimp on connectors you should be able to fit everything. I have a tsunami connector that fits 2 8 guage, 1 4 and one 1/0 that has been great to me. I just ground the 1/0 down a little at the end to fit in the 4 guage hole-never had any problems. Hope this gives you some ideas.

Just giving this thread one last chance to get some replies before it retires.

I believe from another post (I think nick maybe) said the sub would 'settle into' the parameters. I would really wait for one of them to respond to get the most accurate info though.

I'm sorry, maybe I'm missing something, can you please spell out for me what the problem is? Are you trying to upgrade the battery, the terminal, or both? Or just trying to run some wire to the terminal? Thanks.

Van looks crazy, what was it hitting? Well, now I have a face to the name.

Where did you get those posts? I've been using allthread with some nuts and washers, but that definitelly looks fancier. Is there somewhere online to get those? Thanks.

Looks nice.

OK, I'm going to get a true rms meter (didn't get 1 yet because of expense) and try out whats been suggested so far. again, this isn't the most accurate testing, just in car, and to let those (like someone said) who must know have a crack at it. Part of it is also the comment M5 made about getting good equipment you can trust the manufacturers ratings, but even those cea compliant aren't perfect. Example: my mojo 4k is rated 4kwrms @14.4v @ 1khz, but once you figure in I've got it playing between 20-80hz, with a current drop from 14.8 to around 13v, while this tells me I need more power all around, I can get a little more accurate #s with testing it myself in my exact setup. I was told that every 1v drop you lose around 10% of power, so if I went from 14.8 to 12.8- .2x8000 means I'm losing around 1600watts. I just want to get a little closer to actual rms wattage than just guessing, or trusting the manufacturers specs.

are those strappable in pairs for 10000@ 2ohm, or were you just putting on one per coil? Thats some serious power you've got there.

x2 effective cone area (Sd) on the 12 is 481cm^2, on the 18 is 1210cm^2. I just love how deeeep it sounds.

Either one is a real crowd pleaser. Like the vids though.

Nice analogy: Feed them plenty...

Nice scores. I'm not familiar with mic placement in these types of comps- where were you putting that? Was that on the T/L? Thanks, and great job.

Can you strap those to give a BL 2000watts? Truthfully I love my 18s so much the only reason I'd go down is if space is an issue- so I'm biased.

Yeah, the pic doesn't do it proper justice-it had an extremely nice paint, but the work under the hood was just amazing.

Thanks for... everything I guess. My fiance said the Fi shirt was sexy on me The grey lettering & all looks nice. Thanks

If it's 2 12s getting 1800w total, or 1 12 getting 1800w on just it, while it's really a matter of the install, the 2 12s should have more potential. Is it a matter of 12 vs 12, or just a single larger sub?