tejcurrent

Thats mean-poor old lady. my moms 70, she heard my system and told me I was retarded. Must really sound good though.

Yeah, used makes a huge difference, and when you can find an amp at half cost it makes it worth the lack of warranty imo. If an amp cost 2000 new, you buy one used for 1000, and 6 months later it craps out, spend the other 1000 and get a second, or try to repair what you have. My luck it's always right after the warranty goes up when you begin to have problems. 500 for 2 those memphis, is that used? Even so that's a killer deal.

Looks nice, has it been metered yet, and do you have any vids?

You can just select that in the dropdowns when you order your sub- then update in the info in the forum about the options: "The new signature option adds signatures from Scott, Nick, and Shawn. The testing still isn't conclusive why, but this will add an easy 2-3dbs to any setup" I'd buy that. Could I also get my T-shirt and boxers signed when I order? Thanks

For that price, w/o used or refurb it narrows it down a bit. Do you have the subs already? Are you looking for an amp a piece, or 2 amps, or 1 amp? what are the voice coils, dual 1 or 2 ohm? That'll help narrow it down a bit more. If you want an amp a piece, the hifonics 1206d seem good for the money, about 250-300 each. That'd be around 4kwatts. If you want 2 I had 2 hifonics bxi2006ds that never gave me any problems (except when I tried going below 1ohm)- thats about 4kw. I'm sure there are plenty of 1kw amps you could get for a similar price, just throwing out what I had good experience with. If you want one amp and have a local memphis dealer they told me they'd do $1200 w/ 1 year warranty for a memphis 4k-4kwatts at 1ohm, they don't sell online, so I'd check the shops. You could get a mm4000.1, that's 4k at 2 ohms. Again, just depends on what kind of setup you're trying to get, and the coils on the subs.

I want a pony! j/k, would an autograph show up very well on the black dustcap w/o doing in the same white as the Fi logo?

I think I can see some small indentations in some pics where finishing nails/staples were put in, or is that the light? I just can't tell from the pics. I guess that's a good thing though, everything looks so clean.

I think I'm fiished as well. Tried the PM/email thing, but I guess you guys must be pretty busy. Would you please pm me about this, Scott/Nick/Shawn? I'm about to buy a BL, so maybe you could save some shipping. Thanks.

Steve, it's a little hard to tell from the pics, did you put any nails/screws of any kind in that, or just clamp till the glue set? Thanks.

You know a place to get one on the cheap I'll pick it up. If someone wants to sell theirs I'll get it, just let me know.

Well, I guess it goes back to the 'what happens when we assume saying'. I see where you are coming from. Grim, what are the dimensions you have to work with?

I just want to ask, was I wrong about the port being shorter if the box is substantially larger? If I'm wrong about that please tell me. I know that if he's using the same size box the port'll be larger for a larger area port, but if he makes the port only a little bigger and the box a good bit bigger, would that not make his port size go down? If I'm wrong I appologize, but I think I'm right on that part. I still agree with sean's statement, but I thought he was making the box over a foot bigger.

I assumed he was building a larger box since that was discussed. If he went from 6-7+ft^3 then he'd still have to shorten the port if he only made it 10sqin bigger. If working with what's there you are absolutely correct about longer.

because that's how it works. With my electrical upgrades (which aren't really that extensive, 200a alt, 3 batts) I stay around 14.8v all the time. Under steady heavy notes I go down around 14.3ish, if I'm blasting test tones it'll even go down to 13.8 or lower the more I blast, but that's with 4krms. Where your voltage sits is regulated by your alternator (to really simplify it). Most alternators actually put out a little less that 14.4v from the factory (in my experience). Your batterie(s) may also help keep your voltage up. Car batteries (most) are 12v, but for instance I bought a yellowtop and tested it before putting it in my car, it was sitting at about 13.8

shorter port

15ft^3 tuned 35hz, 225 sqin of port Brand New A/C 200a powermaster altl 42hz 150.9 Legal @ 42hz 149.8 Legal @ 33hz I tested on 2 different brand spankin new a/c meters (2 dif shops) several times(no access to t/l) lowest was 150.3 @ 42hz, highest 150.9 Just bought 1 SS 10000d, going to try that then either get 1 more of the same amp, or 2 RF 4kwatt amps. Total of 8-10kwatts rms to the 2 subs, with either 1 more run of 1/0 the rear, or a run of 2/0, haven't decided yet. Probably 2 1/0 runs, but it must be specially ordered. Will post updated #s after new amps are installed

caan, what freq and what tune?

Same here, so many ideas. Configuring everything, so many different ways.

cant hurt. for some reason before the subs break in they are actually a little louder from my experience. Maybe it's just me, but the #s on the meter reflect this as well.

OK, then I'll just forget it until I can get the proper equipment (come on used stuff). Anyway, I'll say 2k watts = not loud enough.

How far open is your window? I have around 1800rms, and about 115sqin of port and it doesn't really blow out the window without putting the window up a little. You might want to try a little more port area, you could try tuning a little different.

Well, I don't want to shell out the cash for the osciliscope, but the rms meters are a go. Maybe in a few months I'll get it, but right now it's just not practical. So using the 2 meters, can anyone systematically describe the best way to get the most accurate measurements? Like I said, I know the margin of error is much greater than would be acceptable for most standards, but this is really just for my personal use, and I think the info will help many others who are interested in finding out what's happening with their amps when put in a real world scenario instead of a laboratory. Hopefully it'll help those looking for a powerful amp get a better idea of what will really go to their subs in their vehicle. Thanks.

Great info. Nicely written too.

Well, I have posted a thread in the Fi forum, I will be comparing close to a 1/2 dozen amps if things work out right, all supposed to be putting out 4000 watts or higher. I will be testing using the same few test tones off the same cd, with all the conditions the same. I would like to be as accurate as possible, but there is simply a line I must draw as to how much I can spend on testing equipment. You are right, I do not want to say 4000watts + or - 400. Whatever the margin of error, I would like to keep it equal for all of the amps I test. I am most interested in what these amps do in my particular setup.

GREAT log, great pics, looks very nice. I can't see how the steam could really be good for the mdf either, since it swells permanently after it's been dampened, unless for some reason the hot steam is different than damp air/wet conditions. I'm not very experienced at wood bending, but I have played around with it when looking for ideas for the next box I'm making. I cut about 1/2 way through the wood, 7/8 of the way through, and closer to 4/5 of the way through, and the 4/5 seemed to work well. When I cut too little it did exactly as you said and cracked an almost finished piece, and when I cut too much it just sort of-seperated with a little pressure. Fun, but it seems like some experience is needed to get good consistant results. This is a bit of a hijack, but is there any way to find out more about your 'square-o-port' idea steve? I've been searching for a while now, but I can't seem to find anything at all. Or is it ancient chinese secret type thing? Thanks. Again, great job, looks fantastic.