filtor1

I just bought a SAZ1500.1 and sold the Q's about 3 months into it. I would like to know if it is possible to have a pair of Havoc's made with D1 coils? If this is possible, will this significantly effect the drivers performance, BL, etc... to the point where I should just wait until I can buy another amp? Please let me know. Thanks, Chris

Looking great!

You should have gotten a response by now. Email Nick one more time. Maybe his filter kicked it into a spam folder.

I will hold off on my Havoc's for now and see what is brewing I suppose. I am as interested as ever!

You will be taken care of. Even if it takes a few days. I was the same way!

I did some noob calculations and would appreciate someone varifying what I have done. I would like to do this build one shot. Here is what I have done so far. Skip this if it doesn't help. The box I have now, 40" L x 16" W x 16" H. Internal volume considering 3/4"MDF, I got 4.68cf - port dispacement (4.75 x 14.4 x 30) or 1.31cf = 3.37 - driver displacement of (.16 x 2) or .32 = 3.05 or 1.52cf/driver. I did two alternate box calculations of which I am interested in one. It is as follows: 40" W x 20" W x 16" H. Internal volume considering 3/4"MDF, I got 5.97cf - port displacement (4.75" x 14.4" x 17.28") or .68cf = 5.29cf - driver displacement (.32) = 4.97cf or 2.48cf/driver Here comes the question. I plan on facing this box into the cabin, port and subs on the same plane, and sealing it off from the trunk. Things are starting to break back there. Would there be an advantage in centering the port? Would there be an advantage to making the port wider (noise)? I will lose some internal volume that can't be made up but will be well within the range of acceptable measurements for my subs. A pair of Fi Q 12"s. The new measurement with keeping the side port design are as follows: 5.97cf - port displacement (6.75" x 14.4" x 27.65) or 1.56cf = 4.41cf - driver displacement (.32) = 4.09cf or 2.045cf/driver. I would lose some internal volume for the subs but would this cut down on port noise enough to justify taking up that much space? With a center port I think it will be .79cf instead of .68cf for 4" W port and 1.74cf instead of 1.56cf for 6" W port. A decrease of .11cf and .18cf respectively. All measurements were made based upon a 32Hz tune. I will bold the questions so they are easy to find. I appreciate your time and assistance. On a side note, I would like to see some technical information on port length and noise and how the driver related to this in the tech section if anyone is interested.

What vehicle is this in?

Thank you sir! I think I have got it.

So if Dv = the diameter of the port or vent, how would you measure this given a square port? Sorry if this additional question is redundant.

I would pay off my wife's truck, our school debt and our last remaining CC. It would be gone from those 3 things.

Awesome. I honestly had no idea there were so many builders. I will check them as well. Thank you!

I am not sure if that would fit, I will call them and see. Thank you!

Yea, I looked through there and their site but it seems like they were more focused on domestic applications. I was trying to see if someone made one in the same case I have now. If not, I may have to buy a broken one or u-pull-it and have them rework that one. I suppose when I get the cash for this I will just post up in their forum.

WOW! Great job!

The trick is to do it in a manner noone would ever be the wiser.

I couldn't find any of my pics, but here is the album from the car owner. The initial pics are from the first incarnation of the system. He then moved to an ID8 and then to the DLS OA10" witch he had someone else do and had it underhung. That was purely due to ease of installation and room. The Bose plate that I modified to house the 8" driver could have easily been removed and minor cutting done to make room for the 10". http://rides.webshots.com/album/413129787MZCqNm?start=0 And the DLS OA10, DLS 3-ways and last install by Audio Nutz: http://rides.webshots.com/album/514491069bIPROG http://rides.webshots.com/album/514839661PUppCO I hope this gives you some ideas about construction and revives your interest in the 10" conversion.

Bro, no sweat, do some minor cutting with whatever you have and top mount it. A $15 set of shears would do the trick. Expand the opening to the desired size, deaden, then mount. There is, in most cases, some room between the trunk shelf and the rear deck board to deal with the driver excursion. It will take some work, but it can be done without too much modification. If I can find the pics of the one i did, I will post them up.

correct. i thought u were replacing the stock mids? no. subwoofer. just got done talking to scott, and he wants to make a 10 or 12 that mounts from underneath via a baffle, he has to see what he can do though. thats where we stand at the moment. The 10" IMHO is the way to go. Much more output IB than an 8" and not much work involved.

Nice review. I hope to be able to do a direct comparison soon as well. It will be a direct drop in comparison too. Just waiting on school to get done so I can get some cash...

This is why I will always be a loyal customer of Scotts. He actually believes in customer service. I acually enjoy spending money with him, b/c I know I can count on him. If this works out with the 8" IB direct bose replacement, externally amped of coarse. I may have a few people that would be interested in this for space savings and weight issues. If successful is there a possibility of doing a short run of 10 or so of these? I bet I could get them sold if I hit the pavement hard. If not, no biggie, I can retrofit a purpose built SSD/IB 10 with little modifications.

I definitely did. I actually have been waiting around for these deals to materialize. I hated not having bass but I knew if I was patient I could find a some people that were willing to get rid of their batteries. The luck comes in by havings some awesome friends that know you are in school and don't mind helping you out. Here is a side note, the voltage issue is honestly better. I rode tested yesterday and it didn't once dip below 13.4. I will put it through the paces again today and adjust everything accordingly. I have a ton of head room on the non-fader level adjustment and am going to tweek that a bit more. I still think the front battery is on its last leg.

I appreciate the responses. I will focus my search to these companies. Thank you!

I am not going to be ready to buy for about 6 more months. I just don't have the expertise as to brands and availability for my particular application. I would like to see 140amps. Any direction is much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

I was thinking this is the issue. I will add a 3rd battery if necessary. An alternator upgrade at this time isn't going to happen unfortunately. I have to wait for graduation. with all these batts your buying you could have bought your HO alt Not even close. I got the G31 for $50 from a friend that bought it for a car he just sold. So he kept the battery and didn't need it. The G34 I am getting is from a similar source. When it is al said and done, I may be out $150 for both batteries. I also had the expense of the 1500D recently and don't want to push my budget any further.

Yeah, I am wired for 1ohm but the Q's are dual .7's so it is a bit less. With impedence rise I would not even have a guess. I am dropping from 13.9V to 11.9-12.0 right now. it is markedly better after letting the batteries charge up. I will see what the new YT will do when it gets here.