audio-neon

chat doesn't work, at work.

pst.. pm me some proto t/s, lol.

I'll see what I can do to test this. I will have to make a drive to vermont and play with some mountains, but I have all the equipment needed to test this out. And yes, engines are more efficient starting than idling. I believe it's 20 seconds though. It's a minute difference for all respects, it would probably add up to 10$ in a year of savings.

Can you provide t/s parameters for the ixl10.2.2 and what kind of x-max does it have. I think I found a new winner for a solid Street A driver under the new 1-amp rules.

Anyone have any input on any of these tables?

I'm gonna have to double check this sometime this week. I'll ask the faja about it seeing as it's what he does for a living and than I'll see if I can borrow his chrysler scan tool and measure the injector load when going down a hill.

and a yes from me as well.

The subs don't determine the amount of current in an alt you need. The amps do.

What is the full name of the amp.. Is it an older Lanzar Opti-drive 2100.

What's your stock on IXL18.4's look like. I will probably be needing some later on this summer (2).

Ok...that's understandable. So how is going active different/better than just using passive x-overs/component speakers? Passive systems are built with no idea of the enclosure they are going in. Active systems give you complete control over the crossover points. You will get more sound quality and better performance from the drivers of your system by going active.

With how much stuff they are breaking lately, it would probably take just as long to get a working one, somewhere internationally.

Interestingly enough my Jeep has been using less fuel monthly than my neon was. Don't blame me for a) having an auto-neon, and b) having ported and polished heads and a mid-range cam.... But anyways I just eclipsed the 40mpg mark. I went 84.8 miles on 2.178 gallons of gas. I'm sure I could do even better if I employed more hyper-miling techniques.

My question is how are you only getting 29mpg with an sl2... One of my buddies in highschool had a standard one doing over 40mpg on highway.

1.4 (2 ohm) would be perfect for strapping.

IIRC from my math and because clamp meters don't go that high. @ .5 ohms I was pulling nearly 500 amps of current full tilt. MY guess for 2 of them @ 1 ohm each, full tilt would be about 440 amperes of current draw. Normal music would be ~300 amps for what most would consider "loud"

Although 2 saz-1500d's strapped would be well under warranty and similar power.

Their are only a few amps I can think of that have crossover's accurate enough to do an active system. They are all digital amps. IE zapco's dc reference series, where you set the crossovers with a computer. Other than that you need a processor or for a simple 2-way active system you may be able to get away with a quality sq headunit.

It should be fine. .7 ohms is ~1 ohm with minimal impedance rise.

bigjon; rms and peak ratings are manufacturer suggestions. They are based on a safe thermal/mechanical level for the driver to be played at to give the average consumer a good performance without too much risk for them to blow their new woofers. Efficiency is everything at low power.

All depends on what your doing. Drag racing and city traffic I'll take an auto any day of the week. Good point. I do city driving as little as possible during rush-hours now. And for the drag track, most auto's are faster. Unless it's a neon. The 3-speed gearing in the first gen was soo bad in the auto that it was ~ 3 seconds slower down the track than a standard neon with a good driver.

That could very well be. It was not the RMS rating of the subwoofer, it was the efficency of the two drivers. One was more efficent. If driver A has a 94 dB 1w/1m rating, and driver B has an 84 dB 1w/1m rating, driver A will be louder at 1 watt, does not matter how much power each driver can handle. Just since we are making an effort to learn something today, that statement was true, but it might not be true at 2000, or 4000, or 6000 watts. Basically what I am saying is that efficiency rated at 1w/1m isn't everything, it's not the bigger picture in this equation. Driver A might be a sub rated for 500 watts rms, 1000 peak Driver B might be a sub rated for 5000 watts rms, 15000 peak. Driver A will hit mechanical and thermal limitations and severely loose output as more power is applied until it fails. Driver B is built for more power, has a stiffer suspension and a higher thermal handling voice coil. Driver B will continue to gain effective loudness well after Driver A has failed. I also want to point out that Driver A's loudness @ 500 watts should be about equal to driver B's loudness @ 5000 watts. Due to the 10dB efficiency difference. In the real world, we see ~2dB for every doubling of power. It takes 10x as much power to see a 10dB increase if you aren't dealing with driver compression at that point.

Just an FYI from a person who often says that electrical upgrades will be needed... People who buy a BTL aren't buying it to run 1000 watts on it. People get this perceived notion that you need over 2kw rms. I don't say that you do, I just point out that with a sub woofer system like this, asking for 2kw+ will require electrical upgrades in a car audio environment. We aren't trying to "dumb people down" rather educate them on the fact that there is more to car audio than big amps and subs. If you have 1000 watt amp and I suggest to buy a Q or SSD with flat-wind it is because you have the right amount of power for those subs and I'm not saying that it will be louder than a BTL. I'm saying that it is the right driver for the amount of power you can provide. If people are often after commanding low-end I suggest the Q, it has a lower FS and more x-max than a BL. Like I said, we aren't just sitting here wasting minutes of our life typing responses in the effort to make people stupid. And on the same token, we are just human too and can't possibly be perfect. There are soo many changes in the car audio industry that for some of us who take pride in taking the big-brother role to a new member, that sometimes we get #'s mixed or tiny mis-truths can happen. I for one, know that myself is more than willing to admit my mistakes. And hell, maybe Fi could do us all a favor and put 1 of each woofer (15" for similarity sake) on a 1000 watt amp in a car and give us a TL comparison.

Basically Standard Transmission > Automatic

I know all of my local big box stores only carry 3/4 and had a hissy fit about me wanting to order 1". (home depot and lowes.