audio-neon

I would contact hifonics and double check. If there were any board changes, they wouldn't be compatible with each other.

i currently have a Hifonics Bx1605d, can i buy a 1606d and strap it to the one i already have? No. If your current amp is strappable, I would just buy another 1605D and strap them.

I would definitely run a preamp with a DCX unit, that thing loves a hot input signal. Any suggestions for a pre-amp... I take it my reciever wouldn't do the trick.

I'm gonna try and decipher this politely: While this is true, there are speakers built for this. High efficiency speakers that have less excursion and therefore less "lower mid-bass". As Sean stated. You would not notice the difference. Our hearing is logrithmic, you need to increase the power by a factor of 10 to double loudness. Let's be nice and say the kicker amp does 65 watts rms @ 4 ohms at 12.7v. and the other amp does 80 watts rms @ 4 ohms and 12.7 volts. The difference of 15 watts is ~1/5th more power. Or 20%. You would need a 1000% increase to double volume. So realistically speaking the volume increase would be around a 10th of a dB. In a car environment a normal listener won't be able to notice a change unless it is around 2dB's louder due to floor noise. It's just how our ears work. People who are running dedicated mid-bass's are less concerned with amp rms, than their amps headroom. Just because they are running 100+ watts a midbass doesn't mean they are using all of it. And the extra power is often necessary to compensate for the lower efficiency of the mid-bass to the midrange and tweeter. True, it's the norm for people to port in the low 30hz frequency. Cabin gain in a car environment also helps. I don't see kids running around with 60hz tuned boxes everyday though. Not all subs are created equal. T/S parameters help determine what enclosure best suits a woofer. Some sub woofers will be inherently able to play lower. Starving a sub of a reasonable box volume is operator error. You can't take a 12" woofer and toss it in a 1cu foot box and expect stellar lows from it. Take the same woofer and give it a very reasonable 2cu foot box and low end difference will be night and day. Box design also comes into play. A ported box should reinforce the bottom end. A sealed box is naturally going to limit a drivers excursion. A small sealed box will often times have more trouble reaching low than a small lower tuned ported box just because the system is less efficient. Lower frequencies are often given more attention in the audio world. It's once again operator error. If your front sound-stage is good, than your sub-stage should be easy to blend. I have always found tweeter blending to be the hardest because of how efficient the tweeters are. This has nothing to do with the type of music. It has to do with the levels at which the music was recorded. It doesn't matter how many thousands of dollars you have in your system. It can only reproduce what the source material contains. If your source is contaminated with bad levels, your reproduction will be too.

If my intentions were to just play cd music would I still need a pre-amp. I think the behringer dcx-2496 would be my processor of choice.

^^ top

It's cool. It just seemed like an easy solution. The whole Home audio amp thing is driving me nuts. It's a whole new ball-field. I think I might just stick with car audio. So much less confusing to me.

I'm thinking about buying topgun's maggies. I would have to change the orientation of my listening room but they should fit.

MY substage suggestion would be Icon, IXL or Q.

alpine h701? Zapco 650.6 (dc series) etc.... for processing

to the greatest car audio forum on the Internet!

good luck and god speed!

His has more to do with the fact that it's clean power and he knows how to build boxes to compensate for overpowering the woofer.

small port mark? lol

Only mods/admins can close topics. BTL's can take ~3600 watts rms daily from the average consumer.

when parents learn not to buy them sports cars I should add that I am not normally the person to really get on it, on the streets. I normally wait till I get to the track to race.

that sounds nice, its a pretty large truck, so what kinda box do you think would be best, i like alotta bump, deep long bass songs I don't remember the rec' specs from fi but 6 cu feet ported to 32 hz should be loud and efficient (96 sq inches of port)

My suggestion, although you may not like it, Is build an efficient system. Power would be provided by a 1000d and a 100x4. Polk Db series components up front and a Fi Q 15 would be my suggestion for drivers. Or if you wanted to go active, the mach 5 mids with your choice of tweet.

oh, my favorite pic was "grungy". Gotta love a beat up truck with muscle.

So I'm sitting out at the local mc'donalds tonight hanging out with some car buddies. I take the keys of my best friend b/c he had been drinking and I get him and 2 more people loaded up in my patriot. As we are pulling out, some douchbag in a v6 stang decides he's gonna do burnouts out of the lot (a major no-no). So he goes around me, and cuts me off using the straight only lane going onto the main drag. We get the next light, and my friend opens up his window, cursing these kids out. So they start revving, I prep by turning of the traction control but no revving. I let them spin their tires at the line, my buddy tosses an open beer in their car (top was down) and I leave them in my dust. I love my little jeep. When will teens stop being douchebags with a sports car.

I was simply implying that 350 watts at 4 ohms would probably be enough for my sd1-12". lol, the second part of my post wasn't directed at you, sorry. he has stated that this is going in boat and electrical is a bit of a concern. also, he mentioned that going to 2ohm would open the door to other subs, but there are a crap ton of svc4 and d2 subs out there. i'm just not sure if spending anymore money on an amp, for 50wrms, is going to be the answer. especially considering the electrical. again, sorry for the misunderstanding. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee I know, that's why I figured my sub would be perfect @ 8 ohms. lol

I was simply implying that 350 watts at 4 ohms would probably be enough for my sd1-12".

sean didn't you say 350 watts at 4 ohms?

Both of the sundown multi-channel offerings are underrated. I believe the 100.2 does 125x2

say what? Check out the Hybrid Audio forum on here for the group buy post.