audio-neon

http://www.lmfaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=118

http://www.peerlessaudio.com/products_rd_list.htm http://www.cdtaudio.com/

You really wanna get your 6.5"s lower than that. My suggestion would be 63hz-200 for the doors... A great option for you is the hybrid audio legatia l4... I think they even sell 3 way kits that would be an l6, l4 and l1... Of course I'm probably breaking the bank too.

Since we are talking about hertz and peerless, he should be able to build a more than competent 2 way system to cover 50-20khz. But what adrian_D said is what I was trying to say shorter and more understandable.

Can't sleep and the sun is coming up. Can't get my sound quality project off of my head. Ohh today I went to a dealership that had a used camaro sitting on the lot and asked the salesman if it was all right if I took some measurements for a project I was doing... I think he though I meant external dimensions, not internal. I measured kickcs door-panels, the trunk, the battery tray, floors, dash, the headliner etc... So I could get a ballpark figure on how much wiring/sound-deadening I would need. Classic times, than he walked out and asked me if I wanted to test drive it. "It has a corvette motor in it" and I turned around and as seriously as I could I asked him "since when do corvette's come with a 6 cylinder motor?" and I went home.

You get what you pay for, I have a nice yamaha box set in my room but I have a horribly shaped/ acoustical prperties etc in my room. Box-sets are good for people who don't know any better, and they sound ok, but nothing stellar. No jaw dropping mids/tweets that bring your movies/gaming/cd's/records alive.

nice score for a single 18". Now you know why street class cars have it so tough, our car is off during scoring.

I'm a little confused on your hertz selection. I would vote hertz, are you looking to do a 8" 3 or 4" and tweet. From what I read you listed 8" and 6.5" which play the same frequencies (for the most part)... Normally you grab that third driver becauxe of frequency limitations of the tweeter. Any time you can minimize drivers the more natural sounding the system will be (without countless hours of tuning). To put this in perspective, my SQ build in the fall is using an 18" woofer to cover 10-50hz, an 8" driver to cover 50- about 2200 hz, and than the tweeter is taking it from 2200-30khz. I would personally grab the space series tweeter (large chamber, not small) and than grab a 7" midbass from dls, peerless, etc... If I remember the pricing correctly though, you are probably spending enough on the hertz components plus the 8" midbass to just grab the hertz space series 8" component system.

sorry, not completely talkative tonight?

Honestly good quality solid state amps will have a negligible difference in SQ for the average consumer.

to SSA!

you are probably going to be the first person to run a btl in a TL enclosure that wasn't built for spl only. I'm sure scott will have input when he see's this

off to work again, be back on later when the patients are sleeping.

the Fi BL will not dissapoint. I will second the suggestion on the sundown audio saz-1500d.

what a teaser, I can't see pics at work. What happened?

I've decided that until the fall when I start my new build i'm gonna work on my finishing skills. Primarily with fiberglass, but a little on my carpentry as well. Can anyone say door pods for a car i totalled over a year ago... just for practice.

Thanks man, it was fun competing for the first time. My goal was a 135, possibly a 140, when I hit what I did I was extremely happy as I honestly did not think I was above a 140. This is my last competition with these subs though as I will be upgrading SQ wise to a single new Mag in 1 cubic foot sealed. I want my cargo area back, lol, and the setup I have now is just simply way overkill for what I want, I just am not an SPL guy, I am SQ however I will run it next year for the hell of it, but I expect ~ 130dB in Street A. I hear you there. I'm not an spl guy either and when oppurtunities became available for me to jump back on the SQ wagon i'm already there.

Make sure you emailed SSA for the saz-3000d price. It's not as bad as you think and after you have owned one sundown amp you will understand why Jacob has soo many fanboys.

I'm leaning towards an ixl18.4 in infinite baffle... or atleast that's the plan. I'm just looking for a woofer to cover the 10-50 hz range, the lower the better. I might have to step it up to 2 ixl18.4's if the output below 16 hz isn't enough, lol.

nice have fun tomorrow topgun, i'll be sleeping till 3pm, than something till i'm back at work at 7pm.

whoring the hop enough topgun??? lol.

Have used k&n drop in's in my neons forever, net ~7 whp. Downside is my throttle body needs to be cleaned every 20k miles now, or else the car gets finicky and likes to stall when coming to a stop. *sorry, my step-dad (the one I live with, don't live with my father) teaches automotive and has beaten this into my head sooo many times, and while my terminology may not be perfect (sorry it's 3 am) I have had this beaten into my head. The tornado product did not show a gas mileage gain in my neon, and the cold air intake was causing detonation, but it wasn't a stock motor at that point and needed to be tuned to see a gain in horsepower, didn't really affect gas mileage iirc*

what interior parts are you looking for, i'll go through my garage o'goodies.

Going over budget is the norm. man.......... J I guess i'll give a little explanation of what i'm doing. I'm going to spend all summer putting money in the bank, Late summer I'll buy my camaro, enjoy it for a month or so. I will take a video of me cruising on the highway before sound deadening. Than once winter rolls around, the car is getting stripped, sound deadenend and than its off to Audio Obsessions to be built by Jeff for sound quality. I will be using product we all know exclusively (minus wiring) And than I will be doing a comparison with an expert iasca camaro (same body style, same installer). Will eventually be holding a mock IASCA event, judging the two cars face to face as a testament to many companies found on this forum. The car i'm facing is owned by a member of the elite team image dynamics, and competes in IASCA in expert class. I will be fully documenting the build, and will finish my review off by adding the video of me driving down the highway again showing the difference in floor noise after sound deadening. To give you an idea of what I'm up against, Jeff estimates if a customer were to walk into Audio Obsessions and hand him a camaro to recreate what his car is it would cost somewhere around 16k for install, equipment, and tuning.

Just a little physics for you. As a piston moves down in a cylinder it is creating a vacuum. The amount of volume the piston displaces on its down stroke determines how much air is drawn into the cylinder. Air density, which is derived from pressure/temperature, is what changes. What the factory intake is guilty of is not being designed for keeping the air as cool as possible, rather it's designed for acoustic properties, ease of tube routing etc. The air filter when replaced with a K&N drop in will almost completely make up the difference from the paper filter, which restricts airflow, lowering the intakes ability to flow air. Air turbulence is also a common flaw in factory intake systems. Cars are a dynamic equilibrium, add more air until the computer senses knock from a lean ratio, than said car ups fuel consumption. A rich car will produce less power than a properly tuned and/or lean car. A lean car is just at risk of detonation. It's just like saying that free'er flowing exhaust will increase gas mileage. Which is also not true once you get to a certain level of flow. A car with just an exhaust manifold will preform worse because of the lack of back pressure, which is bad for the valvetrain. On another note, if your car is tuned conservitavely for 93 octane and you were to use 89 octane, you won't get worse gas mileage until the computer pulls timing from knocking (which you could realistically never hit that point. In theory if your car is factory tuned (ie, tuned rich) adding a cold air intake and increasing the air density will increase gas mileage. If it adds enough density for the knock sensor/computer to cause a timing retard you will not see gas mileage increases, and could see a decrease in fuel efficiency. For example, a buddy of mines 2005 Ford Mustang roush stage 1 got worse fuel economy, knock, rough idle etc... from a steeda cold air intake until he had the computer tuned.