audio-neon

So I finally replaced my 8mp HTC Incredible 2 which I loved, and got the new Galaxy s4, and ofcourse I have been excited about a new camera. First impressions are that it has many features found in decent point and shoot cameras, the ability to adjust exposure, a 4x zoom and several shooting modes and color effects. The zoom is intuitive, the shutter response is very quick and the camera handles motion, and low light much better than any other cell phones I have used to date. Here are a couple of unedited pictures taken by my phone, just to give you an idea of the versatility of the camera. These pictures, except for the second one were taken using just the auto mode, and while driving. The second picture was shot using HDR mode while standing and shooting freehand. Just in case anyone was looking for a simple review of the camera on the GS4, as I often find myself using my phone far more than my cameras.

The image dynamics sub is great, the only limitation being that it won't do 150db... I find it to be a very accurate and transient sub, that being said, I personally prefer more headroom for when I feel the need for bass. It will perform well, but if you love a lot of electronica, or heavy bass music, you might want more output. I know that they can perform, i've heard a fair share of Image Dynamics speakers, and to date they have been responsible for some of the most accurate sounding vehicles I have had the pleasure to listen to. There are other options: Fi Q SSA GCON

Huh? You couldn't be any more wrong. Setting your gains with an oscilloscope is the only way to set your gains. Unless you want to push your amps into clipping, then by all means go ahead and turn that volume knob all the way up. But for those of us that want to set our gains correctly, an oscilloscope is the only way to do it correctly. Remember, you are matching the amp to your headunit. Once again, you are also wrong about distortion. Distortion will not be audible until your amp is putting out double of what it is capable of. That is also another reason why you would use an oscilloscope. The human ear is not enough to go off of to tell if the amp is clipping or not. This is not misinformation. This is the only way to set your gains so that you do not risk damaging your subs while getting the most out of your amps. This isn't the place for this, it isn't helpful for the original poster. If you would like to discuss the merits of an oscilloscope to set gains, and the difference between audible distortion and "sub damaging" gains, start a thread. (Or read some of the advanced discussions on this etc).

Do you need to replace inner and outer 1/4's? If so, I would wait to do the body work if the box will be in the way... I have never done 1/4's on a bronco. Or are you just planning on doing the 1/4 skins? You might be able to get away with doing the body work after in this case. If it were me, I'd do the body work first.

In my car, it has a pad between it and the metal (dodge neon). It is almost like a carpet backing pad.

That's actually what I did in my car, because I was not was happy with the rear seats up. Removed the two rear 6x9's and it was more acceptable.

Essentially yes, sound waves much like water and other fluids prefer to travel the path of least resistance. Removing the rear speakers, creates a new path for sound waves to enter the passenger compartment.

It all comes down to what makes you feel the most comfortable. I hate core charges and shipping as well.

I can understand that, but 99% of all music is recorded in stereo. Unless your watching dvd's in your car, your rear speakers simple add midbass and noise, and pull the soundstage rearward. On top of that, as previously mentioned, I used to run rear speakers, and upon finding the subwoofer sounding sloppy, I found out it was actually my rear speaker, which had torn the cone from the surrounds from the pressure created by the subwoofers. And honestly, if you like them, keep them. I'm just trying to educate members when I see the chance. I'm not saying that you are wrong, but rear speakers provide a placebo effect more so than any acoustical advantage.

Marshall can be bought off of Rockauto... I have used some of their stuff and have had no complaints so far. I have never purchased an engine though (as previously mentioned, we rebuild rather than buy).

to SSA!

Can I ask why? They serve no purpose other than fill. Also they can be affected by the sub-woofer, causing an increase in distortion under high pressure levels. And lastly, by removing them, you can increase bass response.

Low voltage issues could be possibility for the noise, as you stated that after a few minutes the noise started. Also one last thing, it could be caused by a short, or thermal issue causing an impedance change. As for the whining issues with the sub-woofer, I can presume electrostatic energy was transferred into the amp when you touched it, and it was nothing more than a resonance. (you stated that the sub was live). I would try to locate the noise. Start by disconecting the remote wire from the sub-woofer amp ( do not let it touch anything ) Next, disconnect the rca's for one channel at a time from the 4 channel amp, and let us know if any pair of rca's causes the crackling to go away. Lastly can you take a picture of the amp as it is wired, of the rca's and the speaker wiring.

Seans gone for two weeks, guess I will have to step my game up.

Stupid question, but where does your box hit? From the picture it appears to be limited by the rear deck speakers, or is it limited by the rear deck closest to the seats? In case 1, I don't know why the rear speakers wouldn't be removed. In case 2, you could have built the box with a slanted top. I know my questions are late, just saw this thread.

It appears correct, unless alpine has some weird way to wire their amps.

Have fun on your vacation Sean

A master rebuild kit costs ~$460 with oil pump, from rockauto.com Reman'd Long blocks are ~$1800. Depending on how comfortable you are with a rebuild, it is easily cheaper to fix it yourself. If you are just looking for easy, a long block will be your best bet. I know we always rebuild engines rather than replacing them, but then again my father has been an automotive tech/teacher for the past 30 years.

What vehicle and what motor?

I'm jealous... I bet it's impressively loud.

Anytime, I just haven't been in the sq world for quite some time, heck in the audio world either, So I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction. I know that there are plenty of people here that are more knowledgeable, especially with 3-way systems and active systems. I'm more of the "let's move stuff around until it sounds best, than visit my Iasca champion friend for the tuning" lol.

Mixing them shouldn't be too much of a problem.. The nay-sayers are probably competitors, where getting every ampere from the battery to the amplifier, as quickly as possible is much more critical.

Not a problem, the only reason why I offered that response was because I was under the impression that it was a 2 way system until I saw the x-over slopes. I had just figured prior to that, that you were bridging to the mids for more output. Once again my apologies.

I missed the part of the midrange being on/off axis. My apologies. What about putting the tweeters on the bottom? Or was that option already explored.