audio-neon

as long as you are talking clean power, the impedance doesn't matter *audibly*

Nicer RCAs aren't going to get rid of whine. Reground the HU and any processors that you have. I have found that nicer rca's have better electrical sheilding and do reduce/prevent noise a lot better than cheap rca's. By found you mean compared two cables in the same install or just general good luck with shielded? By found, yes i compared two different rca's in the same install. I had some cheap scoshe rca's or something like that and i got some knukoncepts karma rca's. I didn't completely read his post about whine... Alt whine will not be affected by the signal side of a system, but the power *more likely ground* side of a system.

idk about production... I do know that when i build my next sq car though, i want one of their linear subs.

Nicer RCAs aren't going to get rid of whine. Reground the HU and any processors that you have. I have found that nicer rca's have better electrical sheilding and do reduce/prevent noise a lot better than cheap rca's.

Cut ID is like 9.25 inches and depth like 9" I know the recommended box size for ported is like .6 cu feet. I will see two of them very shortly for my street A set-up.

Shawn do you know a kid how goes by the name of Caddy, he had an operation in Gainsville called D-Bass customs.

what interconnects are you using?

Scott, Shawn and Nick you guys are making my day better and better. First you guys send me a second t-shirt and set of stickers and now you add an option to make the Q's and SSD's more capable... Well you just made the decision between Fi and Audioque that much easier.

not to sound like a complete jack-ass and all, after deciphering that gibberish, but considering the maxima was going like 40 mph it wouldnt take much at all to do that much damage to the car, remember the car weighs 3xxx'lbs and that is a lot of inertia, even a car moving ten miles per hour has a lot of inertia. As for the comment about bending the axle, she didn't bend the axle, they have cv joints for that purpose (bending), she did however bend the control arms and possibly broke a tie rod end. And even that isn't too hard to do, hit a curb a little to hard and you most likely have bent a lower control arm. I am really sorry for the loss of the car, but it could have been worse, at least he lived to tell the tale. I am not here doubting that she hit him, just saying that some of your points were flawed, and have you ever removed your door panel to see how thin the metal is on the skin of your car, not that hard to damage at all.

Damn, well i guess that 1500d that just went in my car last week wont be there too long... Jacob, i have already gained 6db's just from my amp switch so far in testing before even getting my new subs yet... The old amp was a DD m1 (rated at like 1200 watts @ 1ohm). I have also blown 2 subs, have 2 left... Can't wait to order sub #1! Planning a new box build soon. Oh, and Jacob, the amp has handled the 8 volt pre-outs no problem at all so far.

That statement cannot be categorically made. There are a ton of excellent amps out there that are/were painted or powdercoated. Most of the US made amps in the late 80's early 90's were painted. For mass production, annodizing is easier to get consistent and cheaper. Ok, than let me rephrase my previous statement. Painting your amp can change its thermal dissipation, so make sure that you ventilate it adequately.

hello and welcome to the SSA Forums!

I think i am gonna go with the bl's too, let me know how your's sound before i make up my mind, my other choice right now is the Audioque Hd3's.

could possibly be the song if it only happens on one song, I thought my right speaker was blown once b/c the song had scratching from the right speaker only.

stereo over 25 ft... I wonder if you can contest it because most subwoofer output is mono...? awesome box skills.

I just had to be a wise ass and say that if you hook a dmm up to a subs voice coils it will show voltage if you move the cone by hand.

I will never understand why some competitors feel that way....it definatley boggles my mind. I have found to get tips for my car i have had to consult competitors who run completely different classes or organizations.

nothing is more of a dog than my car....

Than get a saz-1500d... that is like 2000-2100 watts rms @ .5 ohms.

what are you powering them with, what type of car is it etc...

what amp are you planning on running???

Msrp is 600, check out kluv kustoms or go to sundownaudio.com and choose your internet retailer/ shop/ sales rep for pricing.

I would just go with the BL, handles more power than the Q, sounds great and gets loud.