lee

Somebody will be a proud owner soon

Cant wait to see some installs with these

Yep, thats the plan. May even do an SAE-500D later on for the even lower powered crowd. Just made a post pertaining about this before I saw this one Could be interesting

Honest mistake, atleast you learned something today right?

I like the SAZ-1000D idea, but my opinion on the others is: (1) Turn the SAZ-3000D into an SAZ-4000D and drop the nightshade NS-4000D idea. (2) Instead of the SAE-800D, downsize the internals,heatsink,etc. and label it an SAE-500D for the plug & play crowd

yeah, I just talked with him... might go that route. just wanted to make sure the amp could take it daily... BUT IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO WIRE IT LIKE THAT!!! Would be a 10x better choice to do 2 1500Ds strapped. Old TC Sounds site... http://web.archive.org/web/20070224172836/....com/tc3000.htm can be wired... 1 sub; .35, 1.4, 5.6 ohm 2 subs; .7, 2.8 I know this for a fact, cuz we just put a meter on each sub, wired to the 1.4 diagram...and they read 1.4 ohm. add them series and we got .7 ohm, in parallel netted 2.8. I just want to know if a SAZ3000 can do .7 daily with my electrical without having problems... yeah I could/would do two 1500's if I need, but I dont. You got those backwards, parallel is low resistance, series is high resistance

OK ,well i've been wrong before. Next step is to take the sub out of the box and check it to see anything out of the ordinary.

If I had to guess the problem your box would be it. are you shure the q logic box is 3/4 because most all that i've seen were 5/8'' wood thickness. back in 97 I had those with RF DVC 15s in em and i could here the wood smacking together under high levels. I thought the box was going to blow apart and mine were 5/8'' 1.5^3ft q logic boxes

I would get it just incase user error comes into play, but not nesessary

I'm just shy of 400 miles away and I got mine in two weeks

x2

maybe you should try the deathrow 18 from IA

Steve also has a way better electrical than most anybody else.

Also looks like it has the bp option aswell

Same line of amps should be alike

Can I get one please?

IMHO... it's simply a better design, period. Same power level from 12v - 16v, more efficient, lower distortion, more elegant design. This model costs around the same as the previously discussed 5000D if you don't figure in the engineering costs and tooling costs to get started (which will be alot, but worth it, IMO) - in reality does more power @ 12.0 volts as well (literally 12 point zero volts = 4000 watts RMS @ 0.01% THD). I do not like the 5k and 7k based designs from my current build house... it's not really the cost to repair as much as they are almost impossible to repair, period. Don't get me wrong... they are fine amplifiers when working, but I don't like the difficulty of repair and this other design is simply superior. This sounds like regulated power supplies,.....yes?

I thought I was the only one

Nuff said

I prefer cone area over power first

i have an Optima yellow top model D51 under the hood and a kinetik HC2400 in the trunk. They are running off a 180 amp iraggi alternator. I have 0 gauge throughout my vehicle including the Big 3 in 0 gauge. its a 2003 civic lx coupe. my in dash has a 6 volt preamp output. thats about all i know about my system. planning on getting 2 sets of MB Quart premium series component systems and running them with a kicker 250.2 Now that I know you have a sufficient electrical, if you decide to go with BTLs, all I ask is look into a better quality amp. everything else seems really good to me

He didn't really say anything wrong. My point was people jump strait for the biggest series of drivers and try to cut corners somewhere else. If a BTL is the choice, send it clean power with a quality amplifier aswell. His choice of amp for the btl is not a wise one imo that's all.

I'm deffinately not confused. you were overpowering those subs in a ported box without the ssf adjusted properly to prevent damage to your equipment

Thick & brown.......lol

wow shes got big..........j/k