Tommythecat

Wow, thanks for the insight Captain Douchebag.

No.

Kinetik has "short circuit current" ratings on the website, the manual lists the CA rating. If you want big numbers, Odyssey lists their 2150 at 5000 short circuit amps :eyeroll:

Okay, now I get it. Well, its not very easy to predict what will happen when you wall off a vehicle. The loss of deep bass is possible - the vehicles transfer function (cabin gain) can change, and shift the peak frequency up. In general your SPL will rise along with the peak frequency. But when you say something like "I'm sure that there will be an increase in air movement inside the vehicle" - I dont really get what you mean, could you explain this more? Hopefully more experienced people can chime in, I have limited experience with walls (none personal so far )

Im not sure I understand, a wall would have to port toward the front - its gonna block off the rear section of the vehicle completely.

1600W is very capable with the right cone area and box size to achieve 140 and higher.

Well if you're serious enough to give up the space for competing, you could probably make a box large enough for an 18 without "sealing" the pressure in the trunk. But I think you'd have to look at how you could accomodate a 7-8 cube (external) box and still have somewhere to put your equipment. I like the 5-6 cube idea because it allowed for trunk floor space for amps and such.

MTX Black Gold

I forgot to do this, and started spewing my opinions all over the place. But I was confused because the sticky said "dont go around announcing your a newb" which I'm kinda doing right now. Hopefully some of you recognize the name though, I post all over the place. I also hope people realize I'm not a newb in the way that I might not know what I'm saying or talking about (should be apparent with what I say) but I'm just new here. I generally say when I dont have exact knowledge, but everything else is founded on logic. Any questions?

That was my other question...how are we going to test its limits when it could go poof once and that's it. Makes me sad to think it. I also imagine this suckers got some serious Le and other compromises for Spl. Im not too concerned over any SQ that might be obtainable. At least that's what I hope for - a no nonsense, value spl driver.

Mag is quite the price, but well worth it I hear. And whatever its power handling - it'll like 1200W. And I believe the Q would be louder than the avalanche at certain freqs(above 30Hz). Keep in mind the Ava has an Fs of 16Hz...that thing loves large loooowwwww tuned boxes. They still work really well - but I know mine will be traded out someday and probably go in a HT (I have two 15's). THe BL would be louder again, esp tuned higher like it seems to be suited to. Notice, it doesn't need to be tuned high, it simply works better at higher tune where the Q works better at a lower tune. Its about specialization, Adam Smith would be proud of Fi.

Which hatch? Is it the Aveo? If so, 2 cubes @ 55Hz 4 external 4" flared ports if you could. Start with 1 Sundown at 1ohm, then strap 'er down with the 4kw's and find out what it'll take with proper down time between burps. What kind of other ideas might you have in mind?

First, the RMS on a BL is 1000W, just because some people run more doesn't mean a BL "needs" 2000W. A sub doesn't "need" power. (or "should be getting" however you want to put it.) Other than that I agree, a Q in this case could be louder than the BL - but that's because you're tuning it to 30Hz. The Q has higher throw, lower Fs, and higher Vas where the BL has less throw, higher Fs, and a lower Vas. This means Q for big box/low tune and Bl for smaller box/higher tune. Why else would they release this other line and price them the same? This is all comparative and not set in stone, of course. Putting them in their respective recommended boxes, the BL should come out on top for max spl.

I mean, two 12's have got a 15 beat by a little bit - but its really useful when you got a lot of power you need to distribute. I like the way DD/Audioque put it: http://www.audioque.com/aq/whatSubs.htm. Basically figure what room you've got and what power you're gonna push and then decide how many coils you need. As far as magnet goes: you cant draw anything from magnet size/weight and most companies use the same magnet through a line. This offers pirce cuts/savings to producer/consumer. JL W7 is a good example: different magnet per size("custom design per size" if you will), solid reputation, and good service at a high price. Most people can't afford or justify the difference though. But you also mentioned "LSQ" so I thought you wanted more quality than quantity. If you want to pound, look at the Fi BL. Same price, more efficiency, less throw, use it in a box like 4 cubes tuned to 35Hz. Not to push Fi too much, but a Mag is kinda over your price range and they're looking like one of the best bang-for-the-buck companies out there (Fi that is).

To me the concerns over BL and CMS power compression are limited to high excursion (20mm+) woofers. Even then, to achieve such extreme throw most designs require a large box or lots of power - most of the time well over 500W - to approach Xmax. A typical 4" coil (pro audio) can see over 3db of power compression at less than 500W (pink noise - low crest factor) without exceeding 1/2 Xmax. "Car subs" which are long-throw dont use 4" coils, but do have much more magnet area and most likely exhibit the same levels of power compression. Now, when we look at midbass, midrange, and tweeters we are also much more concerned over thermal power compression as well as they usually dont reach Xmax very often. BL and CMS linearity are much more important in limiting distortion. As was stated above, at any frequency, the coil is shuffling through the gap many, many times a second and non-linearities in BL and CMS show up as distortion products.

In a 97 accord, I had dual 15" ascendant avalanches, sealed, 4 cubes, memphis mojo. Didn't get to port that setup, but I figure you want to use a maximum of 6-7cubes external to make sure you dont block the trunk off when rear firing (of course...unless you wall off the trunk firing forward). Something like an Fi Q 15", ported 4 cubes tuned 28Hz, fire it all back. With two 12's of anything you'll pay too much to get nothing over a single 15 - most likely wont find a sub that cant handle 800W anyways.