appleyard

interested also to find matching tweets for the mli. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8402 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1181 what about this tweets? Any good?

thanks I didnt know that. I know someone who run 2 revo amps had this kind of settings without problem and I believe that the 1500d setting is similar. Plan to run it seperately each will power its own sub. Can I strap it together and power each sub or do I have to wire the sub together as well?

thanks sub are d2 so its wired to 1 ohm to the sundown 1500d. The sub do get hot while playing music. My guess is the charging system. I had stock alternator (45 amps) and 1 battery to power 2 amps ( 1 mono and 1 4 channel). Since then I had upgraded to 120 amps and couple of batteries. The weather here does not help as well. It average around 35 deg Celsius on a normal day and 38 deg on a sunny day. We had this all year round. May check on the amp setting but terminals reads fine, 1.8 - 2 ohm per coil.

When I took out my subs I found a brownish materials on the sub terminals. Upon inspecting, I suspect the glue from the cone to the surround is melting. Is there any reason to it? Also would any glue which is strong enough would fix this. I plan to use the 10 minuted epoxy as its avaiable in anywhere in my please compared to the CA glue or the original glue that was used. Would the epoxy do its job without affecting any performance? thanks

And all this while I though the Sheffield lab cd are for comps.

I installed 3 batteries which one in the engine compartment and another 2 in the boot. Since I owned a small car, I cramped those batteries on the side of the box and its almost impossibel to take them out without taking the whole enclosure with it. So my question is it safe to charge the battries while it is still connected to the amp and the front battery or should I unhook all cables before charging the batteries.

Never heard the W6V2 but I seen them. Owner are too scared to powered them up. Owned 2 15Q and did a comparison with the Brahma MK1 sub (2 15 vs 2 15) but thats out of the tpic anyway. Cant give an unbiased opinion since my previous subs are the CVR's

We have been working to get our article in some major publications. The problem is major publications only cover drifting and import shows. The pure 12 volt mag is a thing of the past. 12 Volt News is a publication that goes out to industry people which is a good things for Sundown because 12 Volt retailers can read about the success of Sundown products and this may peak their interest. Maybe some naked chicks pics may spark some interest. But seriously I enjoyed reading the article even though its almost impossible to get a copy from where I came from.

hmm... I never thought by holding a wire makes my fantasy go wild

Pix pix pix pix pix pix And why not getting another 1000d and 2 more RE??

I have 2 1500d that I got from Dbr and 2 Fi Q15. My HU has a 3 preout which is for front, rear and sub. Each 1500d will power a single Q15 and I connect both amp with RCA. Let say RCA from HU connect to amp A and another RCA connect from BR out of amp A to input to amp B. Is this the right way to do it? Now when I scoped amp A it shows 40.4V with gains set at 3/4 of unclipped signal. Now when I scopped amp B with max gains I only got like 32V and it does not clip. So I decided to swap the RCA from HU to amp B. I got 41.5V with gains set at 3/4 of unclipped signal. But when I scopped amp A it has the same problem. Got 31V from it unclipped with max gains. Does anyone has similar problems like this? This is the first time I had to monos which previously I only had 1 mono and 4 channel amp. Can I assume that the RCA cable or the RCA input or output has problems. If yes how do I diagnose or troubleshoot. Thanks

would you elaborate on the term properly? Also what xover point and what power did you run yours? thanks

Any idea if I can get the mli65 from them. Seems that they do not have any in stock.

Currently mid are mounted on the stock door location. Why 8"? Hmm I guess bigger is better. Was thinking of the March5 mli as well. Does it have a good mid bass and can go low as well?

I want moar midbass on my front. Currently I have the Alpine SPX177A powered by RF T4004. I was thinking of going for a pair of 8" for my mids. Can anyone recommend me a pair for under $200 - 250. Also it can be 7" as long as it can play low and has good midbass. I have 2 15Q on my subs and when I play full tilt, all I can hear is rattle and no mids. Thanks

Its recommended that your port is the same place as your cone so you wont face any phase issue. I didnt see any problem with porting with having port on a different location like you mention.

With double the power it will definitely louder. Unless you are asking about the BL and BTL with 1500w.

I vote the Jackhammer because it has more bling than those ugly BL ....... wait I vote for my Q instead

would this be right? 2 6.25" port with length of 21.79" in will give you 0.762 cu. ft? yes? no? got this from here http://www.mathopenref.com/cylindervolume.html so my box will be 5.79 cu ft net tuned to 31hz with box dimension of w33 h17 d26.

found out that the TS in Winisd if off so any result is skewed. Any idea on other program which let you calculate for 2 ports?

maybe you can contact MTX for a 22" recone.... seriously J/K I'm sure Nick will take care of you

wrong post

I got the chance to listen to the Q vs the CVX while the CVX was louder the Q sounded more natural. Also I had 2 12 CVR before. I would pick the Q over any kicker sub in my daily ride.

my guess that the Q can do IB as it has tremendous xmech to do it.

I was looking at the new BTL and about to get it but hey shipping is costly even with USPS (btw im in Malaysia just next door to Australia...... actually just next door to Philipines). But I'm still crossing my finger for some plane carrying those new BTL to crash on my backyard so I can get it free.... but maybe not.