appleyard

Just wondering...if changing the VC confic (let say D2 to D1) do we change the coil or the motor? Isnt a standard recone will do it? Or its not even worth doing it compared to buying another one.

15 BTL with 1 Sondownz3000. You can sell your amp to me.....cheap cause I'm cheap LOL

15 BTL with 1 Sondownz3000. You can sell your amp to me.....cheap cause I'm cheap LOL

if you have the power, I would say 2 12 BTL wfully loaded and see it gets low. why didnt consider the Q?

Shawn If dont metered that thing I'll come to haunt you. with Scottie J on your side, I'll bet it will hit high.

My so called reputable shop only recommend MTX because he's carrying those brands. When I told them I heard the Brahma, he said ohh.. that sub is crap. Wait until you hear my MTX8500 in SQ setup. I can waith to rebuilt my box so I can show him my so called unknown Q with his MTX.

Q18 or the BL18 with options. Both can do bassrace and daily. but if you want to add another amp then 2 BL 18 wil do. Why dont you sell your amp to me and get the BTL 18 with the SAZ3000. single sub and amp will surprise ppl especially when others with multiple subs and amps.

tuning freq?

done the big 2 though. Except for alternator to chasis.

Can the Q runs at IB setup in the first place? If yes than how much power will it be for IB setup?

No clipping... already scope it. No distorsion either. So its either: 1. overpowering (which I doubt I would because of my puny aleternator) or 2. the amp trying to get as much current at low voltage. If its no.2, any idea on how to get it fix? Alternator upgrade?

BL is actually not a poor mans BTL. The BL was for daily street bass. Not many will go driving around daily with more than 2000w+ on their sub.

Havent measured it yet but last time when i'm using 2 CVR with 800w voltage floats around 13.6v. But now I'm sure it drops lower. I dont have any tool to measure how much watts actually produced. My batteries is rated at 70amp. So I can assume I overpowering them?

Btw Meade maybe after you done playing with the BTL, can you put one Jackhammer in there and just to know that its crap anyway.

did I miss something???

That little kid sure can do wiring installation. I bet he's better than me. The amp look sick though.

my amp is this http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Blaupu...rning_Desire_2/ Since this amp is a bit overrated (rated at higher voltage) combined with my stock alternator, I wont see the power as stated. Sub does hit hard, but not distorted. Before this I own 2 12 CVR and the sub reach xmech so I had to turn the volume down... if that related though. With my current alternator 60 amps (I know, going for upgrade) I dont think I would see 1000w let alone 2000w. Sub is wired in parallel into 1 ohm load.

This happens to me several times (actually everytime I turn up the volume). Just playing like 10-15 mins and I could smell the VC. When I touch its hot (not to the point where you can cook eggs with it) but just wondering whether I am killing the Q slowly if not quickly. the amp also runs hot but amps are made that way (thats why they have heatsink). Is my sub ok with it or is it with the low voltage and high current thinggy... thanks Wynold

didnt a price of a recone is almost similar to the Titanic MKIII???? Buy a new one dude.

Type X is sexy but the BL has more muscle. So I vote for the BL by just looking at it. But if you really want my opinion I would say the Q will win because I had one.

Dont know about home setup but last time I played hard with my Q15 with 50 cent candy shop and half way through the song, suddently everything went quiet. So I panicked, turned off everything and parked my car. Left the car for a while and turn up everthing is ok. Took the sub out and everything is fine. Seems that my voltage it too low and everyhing been but off of power. Dunno if its related but just feel like telling someone LOL.

How about this Outside dimension 33 wide 17 tall 20 deep with port dimension at 30hz 3.5 wide 15.5 tall 32.75 long Does it sounds right?

thanks man Actually I used these programs http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported-box.asp which I found it not flexible enough. If you try to key in 34 X 18 X 22.75 @ 30hz you will have crazy port dimension. Just wondering what program do you use there. I have tried tons of programs but all of them gives me different result. thanks Wynold

Guess I should update on what I was doing last time and other details so everyone got a clearer pics at it: 1. I know port area is too big as 16.5 height X 5.25wide port is pretty much too big for a 15" not to mentioned more than 40' long. The reason is because I couldnt use WinISD (I know but lets just stop with the WinISD thinggy) and I used some programs which wont allow for more flexible box design. So with the dimension of the box I ended up with those port dimension. I had to increase tuning freq. to shorten the port. If I would opt for 30hz the port lenght will be more ridiculous. 2. I set my gains, subsonic, HPF and LFP using scope and test tones. So the issued of distorsion and clipping wont come into play. 3. I set my mids at 60hz HPF and 80-100hz at LPF for subs. 4. Scott emailed me stating that port lenght over 40' are not recommended as it will increase the resonant freq. of the box and he also state that the box has a peak in mid 40's hz. 5. With the same box dimension he recommended me to go for 3.5 X 16.5 X 28 @ 30hz. 6. I was thinking of setting filters at hz down (31hz) as recommended by Scott but afraid it would bottoming out at lower freq. 7. I plan to use smaller dimension of box Wide 33 Deep 14 and Tall 20 to save some space. So I would like to know about port dimension at 30hz. err .... any help?

HPF - 60hz for comps LPF - 80hz for subs Subsonic - 32hz explain to me again about the sub producing lows?