johnnylemoine

thanks alot guys. info greatly appreciated.

well I AM A try 5.34 cuft before sub displacement. dont know the dis of the sub but the box should be right at 5 cubes after a lil bracing. anyone have any opinions or input in general to add??

i have one lying around and was going for a SQ setup. i have someone doing some work on my ported box and i was gonna make a temp sealed box. anyone have the old specs and/or box recommendations for the 05 XXX 18??? thanks

thats a hell of a lot of components. wut vehicle can u fit all those components in?? deff gonna need a big alt.

ok gotcha. thanks for the input. i figured goin without those would be best. might look into getting some AA mids and better tweeters later. any tweeter suggestions? how does the rest of the setup sound?

use bare wire lug terminals from home depot with stainless bolts and nuts. that way all u need is a flat head scew driver to undo connections. no ring terminals or having to use a ratchet and socket. i usually do 2 pos and 2 neg wire the coils directly to them and do all parallel and series adjustments outside the box.

i know i posted this in another thread but i thought i should move it to the proper location. set up: Alpine 9835 HU (3 way: sub, mid, high xovers) orion xtr 800.4 for mids and highs eD 6000 version 1 6.5's and cadence 1" tweets and rainbow 5.25's with 3/4" tweets sub stage: RE 36.1 for a 05 XXX 18 tuned to 31 hz i have a fullsize ext cab truck. i have a descent set of rainbow components that i wanted to keep in the rear, but if im goin to go active for front stage using my 4 ch amp i wont be able to have the rainbows in the back anymore. my HU only has 3 pre outs, sub, mid and high. i dont supose there is anyway to keep the rear speakers unless i run them off the HU speaker channels, (which i dont want to do) or run them parallel with my front stage? meaning ill run the mids(2 6.5's and 2 5.25's) on a set of channels and the tweets(4 tweets) on a set of channels. would this hurt the SQ? also if i do go with just the 6.5's and one set of tweeters up front will they be enuff to stand up to the sub?

ok got another question. i have a fullsize ext cab truck. i have a descent set of rainbow components that i wanted to keep in the rear, but if im goin to go active for front stage using my 4 ch amp i wont be able to have the rainbows in the back anymore. my HU only has 3 pre outs, sub, mid and high. i dont supose there is anyway to keep the rear speakers unless i run them off the HU speaker channels, (which i dont want to do) or run them parallel with my front stage? meaning ill run the mids(2 6.5's and 2 5.25's) on a set of channels and the tweets(4 tweets) on a set of channels. would this hurt the SQ?

told you that ur tweeters were too far from your mids. mine probably are too. burg i know you wont mind me thread jackin you a lil, but i have a question that could help me and you out. wut should the xover point be from mid to high? how low in freq should the tweeters play? and how high should the mids play?and how low should the mids play? i have eD 6000 (version 1) mids up front with cadence 1 inch tweeters. my alpine HU will deff let me choose the xover point. 9835 is the shiznit. thanks

back at ya breakjunki, great buyer. sent money fast.

12 sqin per cube??? isnt the rule 12-16 sqin per cube? so maybe 15- 20 sqin of port??

got it, thanks

just looking for a price for a recone done by FI for a SSD 15. dual 2 ohm coils. standard SSD.

ive got an extra gasket for an 18. its from my BTL. name a price, ill ship it to you.

deff parallel. pos to pos and neg to neg. all u need is 1/0 wire and some ring terminals.

id go for a 300 amp iraggi alt too. i had 2 orion xtr pro 2400's on 6 bats and an iraggi 200 amp amputator and it couldnt hold up. go 300 for sure if u can afford it. also, if u can fit 49 inches wide, id suggest doin it. a sheet if MDF is exactly 49 inches by 8 foot. they give u an extra inch. i make all my boxes 49 wide to use the sheet most efficiently. pointless to cut off one inch of wood. other than that the setup sounds good.

scott, what can i say besides thanks. i should do pretty good, at least i hope, i got a lil arsenal in my truck now. deff sending you the trophy.

scott i will email you with all the details, just wanted to give you a heads up. need to talk to you before friday.

id go for the 1/0 wire. i went from 4 guage to 1/0 with 1800 rms and i noticed a lil difference. maybe my mind was playin tricks on me but i beleive in 1/0 now.

just wanted to let you know scott that i sent you an email yesterday concerning this so you can check your junk mail folder incase it was sent there. let me know if you got the email. it was for a BTL 18 fully loaded. email is [email protected]

how much did they go up? i paid 205 maybe? shipped for my 31 from ebay brand new. my buddy works at napa and he has the same bat. havent had any problems with it.

are you doing just a blow through port? or do u want to be able to see the sub and port through the cab/bed? if i was going to cut through my bed and cab for a sub setup id make it count and do at least 2 15's. do you plan to add more subs? thats just my opinion though. i did a setup like that for a freind, he wanted to do 3 12's. at the time he only had one so we did it for one 12, he never got more subs and it just seems like it was more trouble than it was worth for 1 12. i think we got about 9 cuft width of the bed depth was from cab to the wheel wells and the height of the bed. it was an S-10 im not tryin to talk you out of this by any means. just plan it thoroughly, we kinda halfassed it. it could have been alot better. i would try just having the port blow through first, not as much metal to cut through, it was hard fiding a gasket large enuff for the hole we cut. we cut it out for the whole box.

btl 15 loaded. 2 sundown 1500's like tej said.

i thought u were using optima group 31's?? those blue bats dont look like optimas nice setup by the way.

yeah dude i know u was just jokin. so was i.