OuTLaWeD

what i'll probably end up doing is putting my stock alt in to run the truck and doing a triple alt setup running the dual Mechmans that way i don't have to worry about anything

my problem is buying a couple of the 370's and they don't turn on at idle, that would piss me off. on the other hand I knowI could buy some new Ohio Gens that are a lot smaller at 270a iirc, but will turn on while idling. do any of you experienced guys know of a company that has around a 350a unit that does turn on at lower rpm?

I'm in the market for new alternators and I was talking to a guy about the Mechman 370a units. he was telling me they would never put out advertised amperage and they wouldn't even turn on at idle speed. I think its bs, but do any of you have experience with these alts?

if you're going to run them for daily you're going to need to get another alternator, unless you don't have a problem putting a battery charger on your batteries every night. my "daily" might be different than yours though I run my system full tilt from the time I get in the car until the time I shut it off.

Sencheezy is really good at doing that

I can't wait to get my hands on a couple of the new 15's. I wanted to go 18's, but I really want the new baskets.

lol! this has to be done someday!! lol

shogen- technically the tighter the bolt the better the seal will be because of the pressure on the threads.

http://www.google.com/m?q=t%20nuts&client=ms-opera-mobile&channel=new

maybe he's tryingto learn everything at once???

nice looking setup!

now that's f****** awesome

Thanks ChiLL!!! They would look nice in all that space you have in that hummer I hear that bro I just can't justify the price tag. on the other hand if I could get a pair those for the same price is the Z v.4 then I think I'd do it. looks like a great sub though for sure.

it looks like its getting down pretty good! awesome!

It's like you didn't even read my posts When using multiple drivers the center-to-center distance should ideally be no more than one wavelength of the highest frequency played by the drivers. Or, to put it another way, the drivers should ideally be crossed at a frequency with a wavelength no more than their center-to-center distance of the drivers. Since the center-to-center distance is going to include the diameter of the basket but the beaming frequency does not, then two drivers will actually require a lower crossover frequency than a single driver of the same "stated" diameter. I.E. a 7" driver might only have a ~6" cone, but the center-to-center distance between two 7" drivers would be ~7" assuming they were placed directly next to each other with baskets touching. If they were spaced 1" apart then the center-to-center distance increases to 8" and they would require an even lower crossover point (ideally). These rules aren't hard-n-fast and there is some leeway, but they are good starting points to figure out approximately where things might start to go haywire. thank you for clarifying that impious. I really am dumb whenit comes to almost anything front stage.

I wonder how the weather its in Kansas right now. I hope we get hit hard!

guess what Sean, I ate Hormel Chili yesterday and was happy with it. your just to picky. I bet you have a herb garden in your basement in the winter so you always have the freshest herbs.

so using the example above where the 8in starts to beam at 1.9k and the 6.5's at 2.4k would those numbers stay the same using multiple drivers of the same size? ie: using two 6.5in drivers in each door will still start to beam at 2.4k. thanks for the help guys

alright I think I'm starting to understand this a little better. also, if I use an 8in mid where roughly would it start to beam since it will be lower than a 6.5in? how do you do the math behind that also?

yep, clipped signal heated up tinsel leads resulting in burnt spiders

my thought with the 2 mids were to keep beaming to a minimum and get me the volume I'll need to keep up with the sub stage. like I said before, I have never put much thought into my front stage. I have always just thrown something in there, tuned it the best I could and let it go. I want something this time that I actually put a good bit of thought into

and the award goes to Aaron!

its probably having trouble pulling power through that tiny ass write. try breathing through a straw

lmfao that was good!

start with establishing your goals. blindly picking random speakers is pointless. I want something that will play smooth and have smooth transition from the mid to tweet. I also need something that will keep up with my pair of 18's full tilt on roughly 5k or so. what I'm now planning is getting the 2 pairs of the mids and putting those in the doors (2 in each door) then putting the tweets in the A-pillars facing across the windshield. I'll probably cross the mids over at 80hz@12db to start and the tweets at around 2khz@18db. I think that should get me going anyways