JohnHinerman

They def are.. Love them....

They are in a ported enclosure tuned to about 35hz.. Can't remember if it is 1.2 or 1.3 cuft per speaker, but somewhere right around there. I also have 1lb of poly fill per speaker.

I ordered two SSD10 woofers back before xmas. I have them installed in a vented enclosure, and have now had a chance to listen to them daily for a couple of months. I just have to say that I have never been happier with any drivers I have owned. I have yet to find any music that gives these Fi's any problems. They do everything I've ever asked. Rap, Rock, Electronic, Country, Bass CD's... Everything I've played through them sounds great. They are loud, play low, are tight yet still boom when needed. Never do they distort, pop, overheat, or anything like that. I've used everything under the sun over the last 17 years, and by far these are my favorite subs I've owned. I was a little leary ordering woofers over the internet, never even seeing any of their products in real life. I liked what I read, and the construction, but never had a chance to hold or listen to one. Just wanted to say that anyone who is looking for a woofer in the price range, you can't go wrong. They are actually a really good deal for the $194/ea that I paid. They are far better than any "brand name" driver you may see in the stores at similar prices. As soon as I open the box and picked this monster up, I knew it was a serious driver. Love em.. Think I am going to replace the Type R in my Eclipse come spring... The only real suggestion that I could make would be to update the information on the website. The pictures no longer represent the subwoofer. There are now spacers between the motor structure and basket for cooling, and it seems as if the motor/magnet structure has been changed a bit also. The woofers are a larger magnet diameter and depth than are posted on the specs sheet on the Fi website. Although it may not be a big deal, in some situations when mounting space is limited, it could cause unexpected problems for the customer.

Looking for a parametric half din eq that has adjustable q. I've seen a couple that allow you to adjust the q for the subwoofer center freq, but I have yet to find one that will for your other freq's. Is this an option only available in a full size trunk mount type eq?

Crap, my bad... I wonder if there is a way I can move that....

These are all the goodies for the Ram Quad Cab..... - Front and rear speakers, clean sweep, amps, and some sound damping. - Front and rear speakers, crossovers, F6 amp, M12 amp - 1/8" plate for the front doors - XS-65 in my plates for the front doors - CTX-69 for the rear doors - Fi SSD 10 D2 new style & vented enclosure - KnuKonceptz copper 1/0 & 4ga power cable. (not show: lots of feet of Knu 12ga Kord speaker wire (from F6 to each door) 10ga Kord from M12 to subwoofers) Knu Krystal RCA's - Optima Red & supplemental AGM Battery - Not shown: JL Audio Clean Sweep, 180amp Alternator, polyfill, speaker gasket BONUS PIC!!!! - One of the shelves in my garage - RF P1 and a Pioneer Premier 10" (nothing to do with all the rest of the stuff, just found it while browsing through my pics)

Awesome.. I used to have a few of those olds a/d/s grey power plates. I also had a honda Civic that was completely equipped with the black power plate anniversary edition amplifiers. That old a/d/s stuff was awesome. .Really good stuff. Plus, I don't think I've ever come across a 6" mid bass driver like the old a/d/s AL6 drivers. Used to use them in EVERYTHING.

Trust me, having your mirror flip down is not cool, its a pain in the ass! I'm constantly flipping it back up again lol

Just wanted to hear some thoughts...Being that your front stage is what is important, does anyone use rear equalization also? And if so, did you eq from the drivers location faded rear? Or try to adjust everything as "one"

It actually did make a big difference in the stability of of the electrical system. So far I am happy with the increase in power it has added.

I know what you are saying, but I'm telling you what is going on. As I said, I'm not sure if it has something to do with the PCM control over the electrical system or what, but it is def pulling on the system. I'll try to see how much current the amplifiers are actually pulling when I have some time this weekend. This doesn't happen onl at full volume, and them amps are not clipping. This truck has a lot of electronics in it, and I'm not surprised that it is pulling a lot of current to run everything, and I can tell you that the addition of the small battery has made a big difference in the stability of the electrical system while playing the sound system at higher levels.

Most any OEM head unit these days uses all sorts of factory eq and high pass filters provide the best sound for the vehicle, and to filter lower freq's that can sound crappy, or that are just not reliably able to be reproduced my the oem speakers. Where your freq curve from and aftermarket radio would look flat like this.. ----------------------------------- your oem signal may look more like this ---/\---/---\----\_________ If that makes sense at all. Ideally you would want to replace your factory head unit to obtain a flat starting point, and add a good parametric eq to tune the actually freq response characteristics of the vehicle... If you are just trying to add a little bass, My suggestion would be to either live witch what you purchased, or possibly try adding a processor such as the AudioControl Epicenter to restore rolled off lower frequency.

I don't know why I was just thinking about this, but since so many people seem to be so impressed by trunks shaking, wipers bouncing, door panels flapping, and all the resonance and noise that some sound systems produce in the vehicles we drive, I just felt like throwing this out there... Is it just me, or do some vehicles seem to be more willing to do these kind of things than others? Everything has its natural resonance frequency and has the ability to shake, flex, rattle, or anything else it may feel like doing. That being said, I've seen plenty of vehicles with extremely loud setups, and killer bass inside the vehicle, yet while standing out side and observing, they tend to handle everything very well, and you don't hear every part of the car buzzing and rattling away, and you don't see deck lids jumping in the air. And then you see other cars with a mis-match of equipment throw together in what looks like 1st grade art project that sounds horrible, yet from out side the vehicle it looks like the thing is going to fall apart where it is sitting. When looking at my own vehicles, My RAM plays what I consider to be pretty loud (no, it wasn't built for SPL, yet it is uncomfortable for many of my passengers) and from outside the truck maintains pretty damn good control. Of course the mirrors shake like they should, but aside from that, my rear power sliding glass track and/or glass makes noise, and there is crazy turbulence noise coming from the two cab ventilators as air they are flapping around in the area between the cab and bed. On the other hand, my Toyota Camry which while driving feels like a very solid car, shakes and flexes like a mofo from a system that was thrown together with parts I had laying around, and does not play nearly as loud as the Eclipse or Truck. And finally my Eclipse which is not quite as powerful as the truck bounces the rear wiper off of the glass, makes my rearview mirror flip straight down so I can't see anything, yet the door mirrors shake only slightly more than the factory sound system. Whats the deal? Then when you throw youtube videos of roofs blowing off suv's and stuff, it just seems like there is no real pattern to how vehicle is going to react. All of this really doesn't mean anything, but as I said before. a TON of people judge a sound system not by how it sounds from the listening position, but by what it is doing to the vehicle it is installed in. I'm all for super loud, extremely hard hitting sound systems, but I am WAY more concerned about the how it reproduces the music I am listening to on my 60 mile round trip to work and back each day, and not what the people are thinking at the stop light next to me....

Thanks pretty awesome. Is that battery solely for your amplifiers?

Yes Thanks. They looked like they may be, in fact one model (can't remember) has a motor structure that looks very similar to my SSD's. I haven't looked at any of the details, but I'm sure each "Brand" is built with their own specs?

Scale it down huh??.... I don't know how...

BTW, lets hope that this is a "good to go - problem solved fix" lol

The original battery which came with the truck is 12"x6.5x7.375 group 94r rated at 700cca, no info on CA. I just simply slide the Optima all the way to one side, and measured how much room I had left on the tray. I then grabbed my motorcycle / powersport catalog and found the most powerful battery (that was in stock) that would fit in the remaining space on the tray, and that is what I came up with. I am fortunate enough to have access to things like batteries, cable, connectors, etc without having to pay for everything, which makes it easier sometimes to do some building or invent a fix or problem solver. There was also a 310 CCA power sport AGM battery, but it was something that is special order, and not stocked for me. I was kinda impressed on how much of an improvement that second little battery provided. I really was skeptical about its performance. So far so good. What kind of vehicle do you have? They make these little AGM battery in very small sizes. Here is a link to some specs. You might be able to find something to help out. Being that they are small, you could theoretically mount it just about anywhere in the engine compartment. http://www.napaecatalog.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.5.5.21&Archival=1&BookCode=nps09flx#

They are currently in a sealed enclosure? How much volume is each driver using? Also, if AudioPipes specs are at all accurate (I'm not too familiar with their products) and you are running 750watts RMS to each woofer that is rated at 300watts, and the fact the Dcon has a optimistic 16mm of Xmax, I'm guess one of those coils is bottoming out. Have you tired wiring the speakers series-parallel to end up with an 8ohm load, and the rated 300watts per driver? Running more than twice the power to those woofers in a vented enclosure sounds like you are looking for a blown driver in my opinion. Btw, the gain at 1/4 really doesn't mean anything as power to the drivers. On a side note, are the SSA woofers built by Fi? I've heard that somewhere but don't have any solid info.

Little update for anyone who has not lost interest yet.... I spoke to someone at XS Power today about my options. I explained my situation, and was told that the D1200 will provide more power than the Optima Red Top, however using the Red Top along with a D680 will provide more power than just a D1200. The larger XS batteries will not fit the vehicle correctly. Either too large, or the wrong orientation for the terminal polarity. XS was very honest with me saying that the Red Top + D680 would work very well since I already have the Red Top. Since I don't have easy access to XS batteries, I grabbed a 20L-BS AGM power sport battery off the shelf which has similar dimensions to the D680 (although I'm sure it does not have as good of specs as the XS D680) and installed it along with the Red Top using some short 4 gauge runs from the 20L-BS directly to the Red Top under the hood. Early testing shows MUCH better results than just the Red Top. I have not done much testing yet, but I have noticed that the light dimming is not nearly as bad, and my radar detector voltage gauge is acting in a much more normal way, with no visible huge voltage drops as before, and no "High Volt" warnings either.I will do some more testing with my DMM to monitor voltage drop, but so far it is looking pretty promising. Here is the setup... This 20L-BS is rated at 275 CCA and 18 AH @ 10 Hours. The Optima 9334R is rated at 1000 CA and 800 CCA. This theoretically gives me 1075 CCA and a guess of about 1300 CA. From what I can see, this combo provides more power than just about any available "Standard" battery option. Here are a couple of pictures...... Again, the idea behind this was obtaining the most battery power that I can fit into the factory battery tray under the hood. As stated before, I really don't have any great options under the hood without fabricating a lot of bracketry for a new tray, and inside the truck is worse as far as room for a battery goes. I am hoping that this will get me by for a little while, or longer. Although the upgraded 180 Amp alternator which I installed is better than the original 136 Amp, I still think I should have something like a Mechman or DC 250-270 Amp alternator, however the cost really doesn't fit into my budget right now. If this setup proves to be dependable, I may at some point either replaced the 20L-BS with a XS D680, or even replace the Optima with a D1200 as well as the 20L-BS with a D680 which I think would be about the best setup I could put together with my mounting requirements I know that this is probably pretty boring stuff for most of you guys out there. It is not as exciting as huge woofer builds or anything like that, but I hope some of you will take a look and let me know what you guys thinks. Thanks again for your help, and I'll keep everyone updated.

Another option I was just looking at is to add a second smaller Kinetik or XS battery. There is enough room on my battery tray to add either a Kinetik KHC600 or XS D680 next to the Optima that is in there now. With the Optima slid all the way to one side, there is room to fit either one of those batteries along with it. I just don't know if either of them would provide enough of a "boost" when paired with the Optima. Kinetik rates their battery in "watts" and xs shows Max Amps. I *think* that the XS is a little more powerful than the Kinetik? But I'm not totally sure. Not sure how these two batteries would work in comparison to using just a single XS D1200 under the hood... This whole process sucks lol Never had to deal with this....

If I disconnect the positive battery cable, put one lead of the mm to the negative battery terminal, and the other lead at the ground of the amplifier, I'm pretty sure I'm measuring ground resistance, no? that is the resistance of the ground path from the amplifier to the ground of the battery? I'm getting the same voltage readings at the battery as I am at the amplifier, and seeing the same voltage drop at each also.

I appreciate it. I will try to get a hold of them. on a side note, I went out and did a little bit of testing, and here is what I am seeing. ground resistance for the amps is 0.0000 which is as perfect as you can get. At idle with my MAC DMM, idle voltage at the battery is 14.22-14.38. Fluctuates. I am seeing the same voltages at the amp power and ground. My test track I've been using is "Put on" by Jeezy. With it playing loud, I am seeing voltages at the amp drop down as much as 8.8 Volts. At 1500 RPM it will drop down as low as 10.8 I then brought out one of my Yellow tops from my boat and connected it to the installed battery with some cheap small gauge jumper cables because that what I had easy access to. With both batteries hooked up, I am seeing voltage drops down closer to around 12.2 - 12.85 at the amplifier. This leads me to believe (and I could still be wrong) that either installing one really good main battery in the truck, or somehow adding another one somewhere (looking under the hood doesn't leave me with much to work with as far as adding another battery) That being said, It may now just be an issue of finding the perfect battery. The problem with all of the Kinetic batteries that I am looking at is that the polarity of the battery terminals is incorrect for the vehicle. The XS Power D1200 looks like it will work by the dimensions. It then shows a spec of 2600 Max amps. My next question is then, are these batteries actually going to perform differently than the OEM or Optima which is in it now? And if so, Does this D1200 appear to be "strong enough" of a battery that it may actually help my situation similar to have the two batteries hooked up as in my test? I am a little leery of spending $250 on a battery hoping that it might fix something. I thank everyone for chiming in and helping, and I am sorry that my posts are so long. Just trying to cover everything.

I've seen the intimidators at Napa. I just don't what what I am actually looking at with these batteries. How important is the CCA and CA ratings? And is a physically larger battery any better if it has lesser rated CA and CCAs than a smaller battery? I added a 1/0 Ground cable from the battery to one of the factory grounding locations. Fuses are 200a ANL at the battery, and a 100a mini-anl and 60a mini-anl at the dist block.

Voltage maintains around 14.4 under normal operating. It is only when playing loud that the voltage is jumping up. As I said before, I am pretty sure that PCM is detecting the voltage drop from the bass hits and increasing the regulator voltage to try to bring it back to near 14.4 but it is overshooting it because by the time it increases the voltage, the voltage as already returned to 14.4 because the bass lines are not a constant load. Music is dynamic, not like I'm playing a steady 40hz tone or something. I've never seen a cap really do much, and as far as the battery goes I am super limited on space in this truck. There is really no room to install a second battery in the cab, nor is there any where under the hood. These issues were the same with original alternator and battery. The red top was free to me, as well as the alternator. I figured even though I'd rather have something around 250amp, the 180 has to be better than the 130amp that the truck came with. Any battery recommendations? The redtop is rated at a higher CCA and CA than the physically larger original battery.