GnomeAudio

thanks guys! i do feel like an old man....went to the liquor store to get some vodka on my bday for a "plugged mellon" and they didn't even ask for my ID. have you ever noticed that the older you get, the fewer presents you receive? when i was like 14, i'd clean up on my bday. now i'm excited to get a card and a free lap dance at the local titty bar.

still needs paint, a header pipe and a muffler......all in good time

Now that she's all cleaned up....

The Gnome Audio website and email servers are currently down due to a problem with the host. They should be up within the next few days, as soon as I get these issues resolved. If you have any questions about pending orders or need any info about Gnome Audio products, please contact me at [email protected].

the bike has around 9,400 miles on it and the only bad spot was a tiny bit of rust on the bottom of the gas tank, which has already been taken care of. i also removed the ugly plexiglass fairing. $550 cash I plan to sell it for at least twice that.

wall saws aren't very accurate, nor do they produce perfectly straight cuts. there are only two ways i know of to make cabinet-grade cuts: CNC router or a specialized cabinet makers tablesaw (one of the ones thats anchored to the floor and made of cast iron or a similar low-resonance metal.)

ok Screws equal better? You just said you only have to clamp. So why predrill and then screw and spend money on screws when you can just staple? And yes you can send staples threw 1". I have done it. I Run 120 psi into my gun that shoots up to 1 3/4 staples. And it sinks them. So now why are screws better? I think will already covered all the bases here but for your benefit, i'll do it again. 1. I don't have a pnumatic staple gun. Even if i did, i'd still probably use the screws for the simple fact that I like the way it looks and when building a custom product for a customer, speed isn't a high priority. I'm not working on an assembly line here and if it takes me an extra half hour to screw the damn thing together, so be it. I'd probably just use that extra half hour for cigarette smoking and beer drinking anyway. 2. In my experience with pnumatic staplers, its easier even for a pro to split the wood. you can put a screw in slowly if it's close to an edge to avoid splitting or draw it back out halfway thru if it acts like its gonna split. you have no such luxury with a 120PSI pnumatic stapler. you either get it right the first time or cut a new piece of wood. when i screw boxes together, i can also testfit the pieces before I glue them together, then back the screws out and apply the glue one piece at a time to avoid using clamps all together. 3. I like screws better. Neener neener neener.

these pics suck, but its gloomy outside and the flash isn't working on my cam...will have better pics in a few days.

and another! 1977 Honda CBR 750 Super Sport. 4 times as many cyllinders as the 500, 4 times as many carburators, 4 times as hard to fix, 4 times as likely that I'll get hurt on it

the SE's will be louder because of the added cone area....the xxx is a potent driver, however the excursion won't make up for the extra cone area that the two 12's have. The xxx's SQ is just as good if not better than the SE's, so that's pretty much a tossup. Either way you go, I'm sure you'll be happy....And I'll be more than happy to build your box

port plugs with t-nuts and a gasket

i think our friend helotaxi is catching on to something that the big dogs in the SPL world have known for years. its not about wavelengths or all that fancy-talk...its about knowing where the "hotspots" are and aiding their development near where the mics are to be placed. okay...i sorta contridicted myself, but follow me anyway. the acoustics of our friend the automobile, in short, suck. you have to know your car inside and out and spend hours upon hours repositioning ports and moving seats in hope of finding that magic combination. that, ladies and gents is SPL. cars that compete in meca usually won't do as well in dB drag because the mic placement is different and vice versa. i'm sure there are exceptions to this rule, so feel free to correct me. the box design isn't as huge a role as you might think. you're looking for efficiency and as little friction as possible. moving air is the name of the game. the correct port area to sd ratio is also very important. bigger ports move more air, but there is such a thing as over doing it. bracing is your friend, and you can even use sand or concrete to create a more acoustically perfect, non-resonant enclosure. some exotic bandpass and transmission line boxes do get very loud. they also take a lot of time, practice and know-how to get right. i am in no way refuting mr edwards, but i don't think that most people need to be so well-versed in wave theory and mathematics to get loud. all you need is a mic, a few free evenings, a friend and a case of beer ps. beer is optional. however, its a great motivating factor and most of my friends don't work free.

Here's how she sits right now. I'm in need of: A new gas tank, new kick-start lever (not broken, just really rusty and ugly), new front fender, chain guard, various screws and bolts, left front turn signal, motor cover (again, it works, it just ain't pretty) and a new seat. If anyone knows a lot about older yamahas or knows where i can find the listed parts, please email me!

and after....i'm going to have to get that stubborn exhaust pipe powder coated or something.

heres the motor before 2 boxes of brillo pads and a whole lot of pressure washing.

Here are a few pics of my new pet project: a 1981 Yamaha sr500. 499cc, 27hp. 8,107 original miles. $125 from my dads very generous friend

Everythings possible if you try hard enough. I need the measurements of your cargo area with the cover in place.

i should say: "If you want plans send me money" But I'm feeling cheerful For starters, 3.1 cubes is a little on the large size for a mag 12". nick recommends 2 cubes at 29hz (lord help me, i've built a million of those boxes). Assuming that your box is 3.1 cubes after all displacement (sub, port, bracing): 1x13@34hz = 4.46" 2x13@34hz = 13.68" 3x13@34hz = 22.90" 4x13@34hz = 32.12" More vent area often times equals more SPL, however, going overboard can kill your output as well. I think your best bet would be 3x13x22.90 (39 square inches). If you use those dimensions for the port, the box itself will have to be 3.75 cubic feet to make up for the amount of air the port will displace.

i don't carpet enclosures. it's messy, expensive, time consuming and i absolutely hate doing it. if anyone is interested in a carpeted box, i have a chitload of carpet left over from back in the day when i used to carpet them. i'll throw some in the box for free and you can DIY

and another!

Your box is done man. I sent you an email already, but heres some pics just incase.

I've noticed that a lot of people suffer from the same misconceptions about the same topics in the world of car audio. This seems a befitting place to dispell those myths. Amplifiers Amplifiers do not magically create power. They simply convert existing power from your car's electrical system (amperage and voltage) to amplify a source feed (usually RCA or Line Level input). Just because your amplifier says it puts out "1000w RMS" doesn't always mean that your electrical system will put out enough power to actually achieve this rated power. In fact, 9 times out of 10, it won't. Even if your electrical system will support the amplifier's needs, it isn't constantly putting out 1000w. The power of any given music signal changes power rapidly to reproduce the frequencies properly. The only way to get a consistant amount of power is to feed the amplifier a test tone that doesn't change. Even then, there will be slight dips and spikes in the power output. Electrical System Your system is only as strong as its weakest link. For most people, this weak link is the electrical system. Today's high current and class D amplifiers need power to create power. Just throwing an extra battery in the trunk or upgrading your battery cables, altho a good idea in most cases, isn't enough to get the power where it needs to be. The average car's alternator puts out about 100 amperes. A 1200w Class D amplifier needs at least 120 amperes to perform at full hilt. This means you'd not only need an extra 20 amperes JUST TO RUN THE AMP AT FULL BLAST, but also some headroom for the car's electronics (power windows, head lights, A/C, etc.). If the existing alternator is struggling to provide your current setup with power, adding another battery won't fix your ills either. It will actually cause the amplifier to work harder because now it has 2 batteries to keep charged rather than one. Unless you have a factory alternator of 140+ amperes output, don't even consider a second battery without an alternator upgrade. more to come later....i'm tired of typing!

I had an idea a few weeks back. Shipping has always been a huge concern of mine. Its not so much the weight of the enclosures that's a factor, but rather the bulk. A medium sized box shipped to california is at least $60, which is a cost I'm forced to pass on to the customer. Packaging enclosures is also an important issue. According to UPS guidelines, I have to packgage each box with corrugated cardboard and seal it up with mailing tape. Packaging enclosures is a costly and time consuming process, which again is an expense that gets passed on to the customer. My idea is to sell the boxes as kits. Each kit would include everything you need to assemble a subwoofer box. All pieces precut and predrilled, 1 tube of liquid nails and a caulk gun, a cup terminal, enough screws to fit everything together and a set of plans that tell you how the pieces fit together. The kit would be packaged in a small box (much smaller than the assembled product) and shipped for a much lower rate. Another advantage is that people actually get to build their own box. I think a lot of people shy away from having their boxes built professionally because they want the experience of actually building their own enclosure. This way, you get to DIY and you don't have to worry about making straight edge cuts or cutting perfect circles, because that part is already taken care of. Because I wouldn't have to fit the pieces together, I could build them quicker which in turn lowers the cost of the enclosure and gets them out to the customers quicker. If all my calculations are correct, I could sell the SI Magnum D2 12" enclosure (2cuft@29hz) which now sells for $99 after the SSAudio forum member discount for about $75, and it could be shipped for about half the price that it currently costs to ship. I will still offer ready-built enclosures for those who would prefer not to assemble their own box, however this gives my customers more options. Let me know what you think of the idea. Good? Bad? Needs improvement? If you have any input or suggestions, please feel free to reply!

I got your email and sent you a quote.

The guy that returned the sealed box did so because he wanted a ported instead. The guy who returned the duel tuned box did so because while i was building it he had somebody else build one instead (don't ask me why).