NB50

You should account for sub displacement too. After sub displacement (.12ft^3) your at .35ft^3, if you increase the depth to 9.5" that will put you at .46ft^3 or 9.75" at .48ft^3 after sub displacement.

The Manual gives the option of wiring it mono at 8 or 4 ohms.

That could work in conjunction with the nut that is on it, but the nut adds some depth to it and it is hitting the a pillar and pushing out the panel a little bit. If I could find a different nut that might work, hmm might be time to stroll around the hardware store. Thanks.

Unless your chasing tenths on a meter there is no reason to worry about the resistance a terminal cup or using bolts as terminals is going to add.

Thanks guys, I can't take credit for it though as I pulled it from a build log on another forum. I need to figure a way to tighten up the passenger side though as I drilled the hole a little big and it keeps tilting down. I put a nut on it but cant get it tight enough, was thinking about trying to hit it with some hot glue.

Having 12-16in^2 of port area is referring to the port area in correlation to the box volume. ie 12in^2 per ft^3. Measure height * width of the port and divide by cubic feet of the box. I think you have the definition of t-line mixed up with something else.

There is to many things coming out with good deals. Have you used these before? Now that you post I can see that. Couldn't remember. I'll be there next week, albeit briefly. A brief visit is all you need to Michigan. Going to your office? I believe you said your office was in Jackson or somewhere around there.

I'm facling in MI.

What type of music you listen to? What kind of subs are they?

Happy Birthday.

You arent going to get much help with the attitude you have going.

Getting excited for them already trying to think of ways to showcase the amp in the install.

Ok Ill get to checkin on it hopefully tomorrow.

It was working great when I took it out about a year ago. I'll dig it up and make sure it still is in working order though. I was hoping to get $175 out of it. Some pics taken of it.

I have a MTX 801D been thinking of putting up for sale. Here are the specs. http://www.mtx.com/c...thunder801D.cfm

I'm loving the black circuit board and led's.

40 - 42 Hz depending on if they included sub displacement in the calculations.

Yes, but it is cheaper here. http://www.tequipment.net/Velleman_HPS10SE.html

Painted and installed. Resized to 100% (was 1024 x 768) - Click image to enlarge Resized to 100% (was 1024 x 768) - Click image to enlarge Got to do a little bit of tuning with the time alignment, and wow themusic has so much more depth it is like it is three dimensional.

Happy Birthday.

After looking at some build logs I saw someone using a PVC cap as a tweeter mount. I've decided to take the idea as I dont want to take the time and money to do the fiberglass I was originally thinking of. So I went to the hardware store picked up the supplies, and after $5 and 10min I had this. Resized to 100% (was 1024 x 768) - Click image to enlarge Still need to hit them with some paint and then mount them. With a tweeter mounted in one.

Not build up your midbass/front stage instead of putting an expensive band aid on it.

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154a9f2a902a9fc/shopdata/0080_Recones/0020_NON+Fi+Recone+Shop/product_overview.shopscript The link will provide price and options.

I dont see anywhere where he was a jerk, he was telling the truth which may sound harsh.

Sorry, but that is just not true i've seen him give plenty of advice, good advice at that. If you abide by the posting guidelines then people can help. What is more annoying is threads that don't and then the first 10 post are asking about the needed information, then the advice comes.