40oz

I am also currently in the market for a single 12" and most of them ask for 1.75 cubes +. However the Sundown SA-12 recommends 1.5 to 2.0 cubes, so your enclosure fits that range. It's also a good match for the power you have. Regarding your enclosure, if you are limited on space I think its best to go with an aero port since they need less port area than a slot port and there will be less possibility of port noise. The port also takes up less volume so you could probably bump up your net volume a little. I'm still only learning so I'm sure someone else could explain better or correct me if I am wrong. But since you already built the box maybe you are set on keeping. Either way good luck with your build.

IA Lethal Injection 12" D2, 750wrms, and I plugged in 29 for FS, 48 for VAS, 0.61 for QES, 31.5Hz tuning and 2 x 3" aero ports.

Nice website and calculator. However, when I calculated vent mach I get 0.11 while winISD gives me 0.04. I checked the T/S in winISD and they are correct. I wonder why there is a large discrepancy? Could winISD be that inaccurate? On a side note, I used the minimum port area calculator, and for a 12" driver with 21mm Xmax and 31.5Hz tuning it recommends 4 x 4" aero ports. That doesn't even seem feasible to fit 4 x 4" tubes in a box for a single 12". I am just trying to understand some of the calculations because I am currently trying to design a ported box.

Im surprised that the Lethal Injection isn't used more often either. Its right there at the same price point as the Gcon, SSD, SA, VVX... Anyways, I was going to order a Gcon but when I saw that my box was less than the minimal required volume, I decided to go with a Lethal Injection instead. Maybe I'll start a build log on here.

Thanks for the input and explanation. About that last part, it will technically be in the trunk, however, it is a hatchback and its not separated from the cabin. The sub and port itself will be only about ~3 feet away from the driver/passengers head, aimed upward at the rear window. Does this change your view?

Well I have read around that 7"^2 per cube of port area is the minimum cut-off point for Aero ports, don't know how accurate that is though. Others say it needs more...It doesn't seem to be possible to get significantly larger port area without increasing the size of the box considerably and that is not an option. If I trim off 1" of width with same port length it gives me 7.26"^2 per cube but drops the volume down to 1.73^3 ft...Or if trim another 1" it would give me 7.66"^2 per cube but with 1.65^3 ft. Is it a good tradeoff, less volume for more port area?

What up SSA. Thinking about ordering a single Gcon 12" and running it ported but just want to make sure my calculations are accurate before doing so. Volume (Net): 1.81^3 ft Dimensions: 13.5" (H) x 30" (W) x 12" (D) Tuning: 32.75Hz Number/Size Port: 1 x 4" Flared Port Length: 15.5" Port Area (per cube): 6.94"^2 Vent Mach: 0.11 Is there enough Port Area? Is this a good size/volume for a 12" Gcon? Also, I plan on placing the woofer and port on the same baffle, on opposite ends. This would require a 90 degree elbow bend for the port but there should be over 7" of space between the end of the port and the subwoofer so I don't think that will be a problem.

Power Wire: 10 gauge: ~35 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <350 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <250 watts 8 gauge: ~55 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <550 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <400 watts 6 gauge: ~87 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <875 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <625 watts 4 gauge: ~140 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <1400 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <1000 watts 2 gauge: ~220 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <2200 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <1500 watts 1/0 gauge: ~350 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <3500 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <2500 watts 2/0 gauge: ~440 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <4400 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <3000 watts 4/0 gauge: ~700 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - <7000 watts Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <5000 watts Speaker wire: 22 gauge: ~2.2 amperes 8 ohms - <36 watts 6 ohms - <27 watts 4 ohms - <18 watts 3 ohms - <13.5 watts 2 ohms - <9 watts 1 ohm - <4.5 watts 20 gauge: ~3.4 amperes 8 ohms - <96 watts 6 ohms - <72 watts 4 ohms - <48 watts 3 ohms - <36 watts 2 ohms - <24 watts 1 ohm - <12 watts 18 gauge: ~5.5 amperes 8 ohms - <240 watts 6 ohms - <180 watts 4 ohms - <120 watts 3 ohms - <90 watts 2 ohms - <60 watts 1 ohm - <30 watts 16 gauge: ~8.7 amperes 8 ohms - <600 watts 6 ohms - <450 watts 4 ohms - <300 watts 3 ohms - <225 watts 2 ohms - <150 watts 1 ohm - <75 watts 14 gauge: ~13.7 amperes 8 ohms - <1500 watts 6 ohms - <1125 watts 4 ohms - <750 watts 3 ohms - <563 watts 2 ohms - <375 watts 1 ohm - <188 watts 12 gauge: ~21.8 amperes 8 ohms - <3800 watts 6 ohms - <2850 watts 4 ohms - <1900 watts 3 ohms - <1425 watts 2 ohms - <950 watts 1 ohm - <475 watts 10 gauge: ~34.6 amperes 8 ohms - <9600 watts 6 ohms - <7200 watts 4 ohms - <4800 watts 3 ohms - <3600 watts 2 ohms - <2400 watts 1 ohm - <1200 watts 8 gauge: ~55 amperes 8 ohms - <24000 watts 6 ohms - <18000 watts 4 ohms - <12000 watts 3 ohms - <9000 watts 2 ohms - <6000 watts 1 ohm - <3000 watts

Im having trouble opening my passive crossovers so I can mount them...I've tried just to lift the top half off with no luck, there doesn't appear to be anything securing the 2 halves together as far as I can see(like a screw or bolt). I've checked the manual and it doesn't explain how to do it and I have even tried e-mailing JBL with no response. Maybe someone else has these components and could help me out. Heres a pic: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=12260&picture_id=130473 Probably doesn't help much but I thought I'd post it anyway. How do other passive crossovers open up?

Thanks for the input.

Thanks for the input guys! The problem is that the surface is not flat, each of the 3 mounting screws is at a different angle/distance. I'm not sure if I have the tools or skills to make a custom mount from scratch that would sit flush against the door. The option that I would be able to achieve much easier is as Shag mentioned, I could cut off that lip in the front and add an MDF ring to make it a little more rigid.

Forgot to mention that I will be deadening doors with CLD, especially behind and around the speaker.

Whats up SSA. Im currently in the middle of my full system install and just took out the stock speakers today. My car has stock 6.5 Infinity components in the doors (woofer and tweeter mounted seperately) and it looks like it has a decent speaker mount/baffle whatever it is called. On the inside of the mount it specifies that it is composed of Polycarbonate with 10% Glass Fiber. I will be replacing them with a JBL P660C component system and was wondering if I would have good results using the stock speaker mount to install them. The new speakers are considerably more powerful and I will be sending ~120watts to them, I imagine the stock ones were seeing less than 45. The new speakers do fit into the stock mount without modification, though I might not be using the top cover with the oval opening. Here are some pics with the stock speakers Full speaker mount with the top cover Without the top cover Side view Next to where the oval opening matches up to the door Rear with speaker Front with no speaker Rear with no speaker Front up close

I don't mean to thread jack but is this only for batterys with side posts? I have regular battery posts but something like this seems the easiest way for me to stack 4 ring terminals.

Gain is used to match the voltage output of your head unit. A good head unit will have an output of 4volts or even higher (at max volume), most of the entry level ones will be at 2volts. So lets say you have a 2v output on your head unit and your amp has input ranging up to 6volts (gain would be all the way down), so it would take 6 volts to have that amp at full power (if the gain is turned all the way down). Then, if you turned up the volume all the way on your 2v head unit, it would only push the amp to 1/3 of its potential. I'm sure someone else can explain it better.

Anyone got a Crutchfield referral code they could PM me? Looking to order a head unit so I could have the option to return it hassle free. With $20 off it would be nearly as cheap as from other sources. Would be greatly appreciated.

I agree with this. Had an awesome transaction with him, got a great deal on a good amp and it came as described. He shipped same day as payment and I got it the next business day. I would definitely recommend buying something from him if you are interested.

Since copper coils are now standard on the SSD line, I was wondering if the flatwind voice coils are also copper?

Yeah I didn't even consider this.

Thanks for the input! So ill stay away from the Kickers then...and I am dropping a large amount (for me) on the sub and the amp for it, so maybe I shouldn't skimp on the speakers. I guess the max I am willing to spend would be ~$100 Notta prob man! Yeah, def dont want to skimp to much on your speakers, imo it can make or break the over all sound of your setup & of course the install as well. Also, later on down the road, put an amp to what ya get & will make your speakers shine even more! Well I believe the stock amplifier is 6 channels x 35 RMS for a total of 210 RMS. I was thinking if I could bridge 4 of the channels to power the 2 speakers feeding them with 70 RMS each. Then I would still have 2 channels on the amp and the 4 x 14 RMS from the head unit to work with. Do you think another amp would be necessary?

This is why I was leaning towards a sealed enclosure as from what I can gather it is more appropriate for a SQ setup...not to say that it wouldn't sound good in a ported box or anything. Although I do want to get everything right the first time around, the box is something I can switch up later on if I am unhappy with the outcome so I'm not particularly worried about this detail of the setup.

If I get the 12" I will have it in a 1.0 cube sealed box. Have you considered a ported enclosure? Yeah I have thought about it but I'm leaning towards the sealed as that is whats recommended by FI. Also I dont have the biggest trunk to work with. Do you recommend me to go with a ported enclosure? If I do decide to do that I will definitely have to stick with the 10".

If I get the 12" I will have it in a 1.0 cube sealed box.

Price and specs look good, Ill consider these. Thanks

Thanks for the input! So ill stay away from the Kickers then...and I am dropping a large amount (for me) on the sub and the amp for it, so maybe I shouldn't skimp on the speakers. I guess the max I am willing to spend would be ~$100