EPerez

I didn't wanna put too much work into my last fusion because I knew I would get this one soon. This fusion looks like it'll be pretty easy to make good strong baffles.

If you're happy I would go with the shotgun then.

Then maybe a new sub isn't the best way to go. Is there anything you don't like about the sub stage right now? Usually switching subs with same size, same box, and same amount of power will not be a bigger difference in output.

I think I know what I'm going to do... I'll buy a set of comps and try it with a passive crossover. I'll properly deaden the doors and see if I like it. If everything works out good then I'll keep it. If I feel I need more then I'll go into buying the processing equipment. I don't see why I would buy that stuff if passive does what I want lol my goals are simple, or at least I think they are. Also from what you guys are saying I think ill most Likely be happy with a new upgraded set of components.

I know man I was so frustrated building a baffle when I had the 2012 fusion. I just gave up because I could not get it to work right. I love how they're 6.5s now; it's so much easier this way.

Are there any processors you can recommend? Something that would be relatively easy to work with. I've never used a processor or anything alike.

You're right. I have CLD tiles now from SDS and will be purchasing the other things needed like CCF and MLV soon from SDS. I will for sure make sure the doors are deadened before everything is done.

That's a tough choice out of subs, guns or tattoos lol I am obsessed with all those!! You can't go wrong with any of the 3. All 3 companies have proven to be some of the top companies in this industry. I can say the Gcon is an amazing sub though. The Gcon so far is the second best sounding sub I've heard. The only one that I feel beats it is the Xcon, so SSA is doing something right. Make it fun for you. I would write each sub on a piece of paper and randomly pick one! Like I said you can't lose. The most important part will be the box. Make sure the box is designed and built correctly.

Well it'd be no help to you guys to help me if I don't put any info or effort into the thread lol thanks though. Yes, I was thinking that the speaker will stick out more and I safely know I can have around 4-4.5" for the depth. Any more and I will need to for sure check and see what the actual difference is. When getting into these types of speakers I never really checked the depth on them. Not thinking a lot of them will be more then that depth, right? Me and you most definitely have different levels of quality though Sean. You have tons more experience then me and I know I will be happy with something way before you will be satisfied. I also did forget to mention my goals in the original post. My goals for this are to have the words and music loud enough to hear over 2 15" Ethos when I play the Ethos at their max volume. Can't really say how loud the subs are going to be, but maybe you get the idea of how loud the door speakers will need to be in order to be able to hear the words. I'm trying to not to use the words "keep up", because that's not what I want to do. All I need is the words and music to be loud enough when the subs are playing because I really only show off when I'm at those volumes. Right now the stock speakers sound pretty good with the midbass and I know when I get new speakers the midbass should be better and I will be happy with that at lower volumes. I think my goals will make things a lot easier for me to pick speakers and set this front stage up. I see what you're saying about switching from active to passive. I've never thought of doing that lol pretty good idea on how to learn how things should be and what sounds good and what doesn't. So if I do what you suggest should I just use the amp's crossovers when going to active from passive? I read that you said tuning at the amp is a bad way to do it. Did I read that right?

I get what you're saying and yea I don't know much about tuning and equalizing . It is a big step but I guess starting with a comp set would be best until I learn more about this stuff. Guess now the next step is looking for a nice comp set then!

Is it that just that brand that you have to do that with or are there others that are more beginner friendly?

Hmm seems like it would be a lot of work to add a headunit. I mean since it's a lease. What makes you have to get your computer to make changes? Not familiar with the minidsp. I just read it is used for an active setup and it's fairly inexpensive.

I knew I forgot something lol I am keeping stock head unit and using a audio control lc2i. Sound deadening is not in with the budget.

So I keep getting told that an active front stage can be and usually is better than a passive component setup. Now, doing the front stage is very new to me. I've really only done a co-axial set powered by a 2 channel amp. I'm going to need some help with speaker selection and ways/tricks to make sure everything is installed/tuned correctly. To put a number on a budget, I would say $400. That number is just what I have set aside for the front stage currently. Sound deadening is not included with that budget. This is going into a 2014 Fusion. I don't want to cut any holes in panels and I can't fiberglass so stock locations will be used. Which is a 6.5 and tweeter. I will be making custom mdf mounts for the 6.5 (and tweeter if needed). I'm keeping stock head unit and using an audio control lc2i. Not sure on what amp yet, but I'm thinking of using the miniDSP. Good choice? Sitting in the driver seat the tweeter is about 2 ft. from my head at chest level. The 6.5 mid is about 2.5 ft. from me at mid leg calf level. Imagine both speakers were facing towards the doors perpendicular from where I look. So side to side. The tweeter is on a ~30 degree angle towards me an the 6.5 is on a ~10 degree angle towards me. Does that make sense??? The next pic is of the locations. Speaker locations. Here is the inside of the door panel. (Looks exactly the same on passenger door too) Stock 6.5 mid. The bitch that'll limit my depth. Stock 6.5 mid width. Stock 6.5 mid height. It's about 2.75" deep. (I CAN USE ABOUT 4" TOTAL FOR DEPTH. MAYBE A LITTLE BIT MORE) Stock tweeter location. Stock tweeter diameter. Diameter of the tweeter housing is about 1.5" and the actual tweeter is about 1". Stock tweeter depth. It's about 1.25" for housing and .5" for the actual tweeter. Not to sure what else to add. If anymore info is needed just let me know.

I like how you share your plans for the year and what you will be doing! I know I will love my ethos when I get then in a few weeks.

Yea really!! $40 more and you have a bunch of advantages. I vote primo!

Sold locally.

Exactly I measure countless times first and even sometimes make a test box to make sure it'll fit.

They're still for sale!! Ill do 550+shipping for them both.

Boxes look good and so do the vehicles!! I would love to hear it in person too!! The montage video was really cool

No the stingers are good! I have one.

Knukonceptz is where I get my speaker wre from. Also a stinger volt meter?? I would use 10-12 ga speaker wire for the xcons.

Yea I would choose the 3 I said and also the sundown before any of the other options you out up. The magnetar should be out between then and the fall.

Roads were horrible on the freeway for me going to school 30 miles away. The school should have been closed for sure. There was at least a dozen accidents all the way up to my school.

Here are some more options. SSA Evil IA warden DDS Magnetar (not out yet but will be later this year.)