putergod

I'm toying with a few change ides for my system. My sig is what I am running currently. My two 12's are in ~1cu ft boxes, sealed. Due to space constraints, I cannot go much above that, ported or sealed. I've always been a fan of sealed enclosures for their sound quality and ability to get low. However, I am also a spl (""SQL"" really) junkie, and need more volume. I'm looking at the RL-p 12, ICON 12, and Fi Q12. Goals: fit may car, sound great, get low, and get loud. Power will be through, either, my 1000x (which meters at ~600 rms/ch @2ohms with a 50Hz sine wave), or an equivilent US Amps (depending on another issue I am having). Givin this info, and the info in my sig, I need some experienced suggestions on: Box size Box type Subs to use To meet the goals of a true ""SQL"" system that will compliment the rest of my system. Thanks! Oh, and I am on a budget. I'm hoping to get both for no more than what I paid for the SW8120's ($225 each at HiFi Buys)

I just put the 4360on an oscope, and the most I could get out of it, @4ohms before clipping, was ~100 watts. Normally that wouold be considered a good thing (as it's more than it's rated at unbridged), however, I couldn't get any more bridging it. I.E. I was getting ~20v/100w on a 1KHz sine wave on each channel seperately, as well as bridging them per the owners manual. Is the 4360 unbridgable?

Currently I am using a USA-4300x and a USA-1000x. In my bedroom sits a new, never used, AX-4360TU I have a local with a AX-1000 he's wanting to part with My question - which setup would be better? In both sound quality and volume - current or the two AX series?

D2 or D4, or both?

Which one are these specs for?

The Eclipses are the SW8122DVC's. I only posted the "series" earlier because I had to look up the exact model number. I believe these are the final vintage of the 8100 series.

Well, I know the Eclipses don't get loud enough for me when I really want to jam (ok, when I want to shut up someone else that thinks they got a system, lol). It really seems like they start to bottom out earlier than I would like.

Oh, and to aid in gestimating the box sizes: The bottoms are ~13"x16" The tops are a 15" circle The "low side" is about 9" high The "high side" is about 12" high. And I use polyfill as needed...

Using WinISD, and plugging in the TS parameters I can find for each of the 3 (includes the ones I have), it looks like all three would perform about the same. The Eclipses show they would be a little louder from about 32Hz and up, with the RL-p's a little louder below 31Hz. The Icons are slightly below up to about 40Hz then stay with the Rl-p's the rest of the way up to the 80Hz x-over point. This is using 1cuft with 1 sub at 630w input. I'm not sure how accurate this program is at comparing subs, though, and I know the in-car response will not be the same as what this program dictates. Any input?

5F cap More than enough power. Thanks!

Also, how would a pair of RL-p 12 D4's in those boxes compare with the Icons?

Well, a lot of it has to do with cost, and the rest the fact that even if i do get new boxes, i am still constrained, space wise, to the areas the current ones are in. I have to be able to get the spare tire out in the event of an emergancy, and I have to be able to fit at least a couple bags of groceries in the space GM calls a trunk. Those that aren't familiar with the GTO, behind that amp board lies the gas tank, so the space you see there, is all of it. Are the Icons efficient enough to really get a good use out of the power I've got? If I did redesign the boxes (but keeping them n the same area, possibly raising them slighty to get a few more cubic inches out of them), would there be something better to put in there that would still meet the other requirements?

A 15 definitely wont work. Here's a pic of the trunk: Again, I would really like to use the boxes I already have, because they cost me $450 and I can only go with a custom fiberglass job due to space (and the need of accessing the spare tire - it's a daily driver), which wold easily cost that much again to have redone. If I go with one, it has to be a single 4 or dual 2, and if I go with 2, they have to be single 2's or dual 4. Thanks again!

I am looking for some suggestions on subs to replace the two Eclipse SW8100 series 12's I have now. Here is what I have: Kenwood DNX-7100 Audio Control Matrix Audio Control EQS Boston Acoustics ProSeries 6.0 (front) Powered by US Amps USA-4300x @ 3Ohm Bridged. According to the O-Scope, I am getting ~460w per bridged channel @ 3Ohm (unclipped) Stock rears power by HU (2) Eclipse 12" SW8100 Dual 4Ohm Powered by US Amps USA-1000x @ 2Ohm stereo According to the O-Scope I am getting ~630wpc @ 2Ohm stereo (unclipped) The boxes the subs are in are "not much more" than 1^3 sealed, gross internal volume. My goals: Maintain high SQ as I currently have, but find something that is more efficient than the heavy coned Eclipses, that will get much louder on the USA-1000x. I would like to keep the same boxes (due to fitment, and cost). They are in the trunk of a 2006 Pontiac GTO. So, the subs need to fit in the boxes I have, be a high SQ sub, but be efficient and put out a lot of sound at ~600w per sub (and be wireable to 2Ohm per sub or 4Ohm combined - all the amp can handle). TIA!

Hmmm... Been into car audio since 1987, and not once, ever, in my life, have I paid MSRP. Anyone that does is an idiot. If a shop refuses to "make a deal", it's time to find another shop... you know.. one that actually wants to make money. Most reputable shops/salesmen know that there is exponentially more money to be made with repeat business than the one time sucker sale. True, but I'd bet at least 75% of enthusiasts don't realize that you can get more for less. That's why places like Best Buy and Circuit City still have install shops. Most people don't know about the internet based companies and the like. Internet wasn't around in the late 80's. However, that aside, 90% of my system came from HiFi Buys. Just gotta find a salesman that likes to make sales.

Are you a ricer? There is a difference between modifiying a car, and being a ricer... a HUGE difference. Study what rice actually is... you very well may fall in that category, I don't know, since I don't know you.

Hmmm... Been into car audio since 1987, and not once, ever, in my life, have I paid MSRP. Anyone that does is an idiot. If a shop refuses to "make a deal", it's time to find another shop... you know.. one that actually wants to make money. Most reputable shops/salesmen know that there is exponentially more money to be made with repeat business than the one time sucker sale.

Not attending rice-fest 2007.

In order to get to where I REALLY wanted to be with this sub thats the way it went. I wanted to make it pretty much bulletproof when a pair is attached to an SAZ-1500D *laughs* Make no mistake... they will handle more power but the rating will be 1000 watts RMS. I won't cover burnt coils due to abuse since someone would literally have to TRY to tear one up with under 1500 watts on it. Clipping will fry the coil much faster than over powering.. and one doesn't have to "try" to tear it up for that... stupid is enough (or ignorant, but ignorance can be cured).

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Audiopipe_GD-6001/ Appears to be a decently built amp from the photos... but I think 2Kw is being a tad optimistic..

Was there some major turn around in recent years or something?? Back in the day they were "mediocre" at best.

I'd go with the US Amps, but I'm a little biased.

I guess I'm still too "old school" where speakers reached 98db @ 1w/1m. If I just used the Bostons, I have another problem. My current car has two locations for 6.5's, and none for 5.25's. I have one set of each. I also have the older version of them and am not sure how well they will compliment the newer version. Specs of mine: ProSeries 6.5 Nominal Size 6 1/2 inches (165mm) Recomended Amplifier Power 20-400 watts Frequency Response 50Hz

Yes, I'm aware of that, and those facts are weighed in. Please explain. Huh? What, exactly, do you mean? I know all about voltages, resistances, and such, I am an Electronics Technician in the US Navy. My Bostons have a fairly low efficiency rating (90db) and are 3 Ohm while the Infinity Kappa 60.7CS ar 2Ohm with a 95db efficiency. The Infinity's ar rated at 2.83v/1m while the Bostons are 1w/1m. Those are within a db of each other in the real world. So, my point is I want speakers that are high TRUE efficiency while also being 2Ohm so I can get MAXIMUM output with the equipment I have.

Yes, I'm aware of that, and those facts are weighed in. Money and space are the limiting factors here. I don't have room for another amp (nor do I want to have to A. find one, and B. buy one). My current system is: 2 12" Eclipse SW8122DVC subs powered by a US Amps USA-1000x USA-4300x for the mids/highs Audio Control EQS Kenwood DNX7100 Right now the factory speakers are running off the Kenwood. The rest of the equipment goes in when I decide on speakers, and my sub boxes show up. Other equipment I have: Boston Acoustics 6.5 Pros Boston Acoustics 5.5 Pros Boston Acoustics RM9 6x9's Soundstream Reference Class A 10.0 Mounting locations in the car: 6.5's in the doors Tweeters in dash 6.5's in the rear side panles 7" factory subs in rear deck Basically what I want is maximum volume out of the 4300x while maintaining excellent sound quality. Thanks!