nadcicle

Not as much when dealing with a processor. And getting away without cutting would require a jumper harness. I'm unsure if they are made for your model or not. It's literally the exact same on both ends and you can just cut what you would need.

Not sure how to respond, but I do believe that the 360.3 is capable of high level inputs without the need for the Pac frd24 module. Also, the 360.3 only needs 2 channels and can still put out the needed outputs to do your subs as well.

Second week of May is coming fast. I'm sure there are some anxious folks out there. Good luck Quentin!

His website doesn't look to bad. It's sometimes best to deal with a local because if they mess up on something they're only a small drive away.

Fun fact about JVC. They invented the VHS player. Also, their quality of radios went up with the acquisition of Kenwood. JVC has to be one of the best budget decks around. Their double dins are some of the only one's that have removable faces as well.

For me, I've always set my settings at their "maximum" listening state. Because, the state of listening, can always change. And you always want to be able to turn down, not up. To give an example, you would set your gain level on your amplifier while the bass level on your headunit is set to zero (car on).That way, when you're driving under normal conditions, you can set the sub level on your headunit to -3 in this example. So when a buddy gets in for a demo, all you have to do is set your sub level on your radio back up to 0. Why leave something on the table? You can set so that at full tilt you are clipped like hell. Just use the volume control to compensate.I'm not sure I'm following? Lol. My advice for the OP is to simply set his gains to where they will be set at his maximum listening levels. That way during day to day listening, if he doesn't want to go balls to the walls with bass in particular, he can simply turn down the bass level on the radio up front, rather than parking on the side of the road, run to the back, and adjust gain levels. When you say use the volume control to compensate, I'm "assuming" that you're under the impression that if you wan less bass, then simply turn down the volume. The problem with this, if this is indeed what you meant to convey, is that, the volume knob in this example would be the master volume, in which case, not all users want a to turn down all sound at the same db level. I know many people that would simply listen to a good output level for the mids and highs, and only want enough bass to perform as simply as an subwoofer fill (enough bass to just know it's there), rather than drowning out the rest of the system. It's really hard to explain via text via mobile lol. Basically, some ppl just want moderate mids and highs with just a tad of bass added. You have to remember that SQ guys hate the fact we tend to try and fit in sometimes with our overzealous bass usage. M5, we don't always go around sounding like thunderclaps and dynamite. I only turn up my bass amps at competition and mix in my substage to my frontstage just for audible mixing sake. Op, for daily, I would definitely take M5's advice as to not go fiddling with things too much as you're already at the point of asking for help. When you're ready and feel more comfortable your ears will lead you in to the more fine tuning.

You are measured with the sub off.

Yah, they were both certified runs. I'm not arguing that the dynamic power shouldn't even be an option. You're side tracking that I'm saying the ct4k is a better amp for power than the nendo 5500 in my 12v setup. It does more on the meter and more certified. The only test I take seriously is the certified and the uncertified tests. The only reason I do take them seriously is cause I will be burping with the same amount of power. I know I won't see this on music and could care less. I could understand if I was saying it was a b2 m1u vs a soundstream 10k,but it's not. As for under rating an amp, I was always under the assumption that the reason that was done was because your amp had to match certain qualifications in the lane @ a certain ohm load to be in that class. Eg. My amp does 400 watts @ 4 ohm so I'd be in the 0-500 class. It'd be irrelevant that it does 10k at a half at that point. I respect that you guys know what you're talking about and you could put huge builds together and do well, but I wouldn't throw ct's 2 biggest amps to the side based on hearsay. If you got the chance to hold one or play with one I'd ask you to reevaluate your opinion. I don't sell, condone, or even get free stuff from them. I based everything on real world experience with them. *Edit* Forgive me, but I was off a bit on the nendo dyno. Here's the CT4k for reference. https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/1472889_665388446815904_768000461_n.jpg

We've heard it said a million times that for some people a watt is a watt. The fact is the nendo made about 4300 at around 12.7 and the Ct4k made about 5030 at 12.7. Once again, whether or not it's apples to elephants or not these were both on SMD dyno's for what it's worth. Also, since I owned both amps I give my opinion in such a way as not to show bias, but the CT flat out did better than the nendo in my 12 volt setup. The OP's question was about how their amps do and not about the integrity of the owner, where the amps were made, or even how they compare to their Korean counterparts. I based my response on things that I have experience with and not internet hearsay.

I will echo what I said before. My CT4k is good and does well over rated power. More so than the nendo 5500 it replaced. Now I have 2 and both work great. I've yet to come across a single proof post of someone actually blowing/smoking the amps that hooked one up correctly. Everything I've seen is hearsay and people that remember something about something. Truth is Coleman never said that his board shared anything with any of the RD amps. Someone else put that out there that happened to see it and put that assumption together on Caco and Facebook. While the dude could possibly be a douchebag or a loser, that remains irrelevant. Truth is the amps he's put out have their place and are selling like crazy and do well. I'll likely trade mine out eventually, but for now I'll continue to run my shit amps I guess.

is who took so long for me. Although, I think everyone already has an idea that time is never on their side. I contacted 4 times through email, twice on their facebook, and even called 3 different numbers that were different from the one on their website multiple times. I never did get an answer from so I ended up getting a Mechman elite. I emailed and had an answer in about an hour. Then he even called me and we texted back and forth for a while after. People already know about these two companies and their untimely fashion in the car audio industry and they both sell highly respectable products. I'd still like a power alt, but my Mechman Elite is going strong and showing no signs of failure. I recently traded my , but that doesn't mean I wouldn't run one again. If you're an impatient person then these two companies just aren't for you in most cases.

And here I was running 10k/4 subs wondering if it'd be too much lol. I haven't received any tracking or anything, but I'd imagine I'm in this 2nd week of May thing? Yes you are in the 2nd week of may thing. It'll be about two weeks quicker than the build house lead time. Also tracking will not be issued until the drivers are built and packaged. This way customers don't wait in wonder when their order will arrive. When you receive a tracking number it'll ship by the next business day. Hell, 4 weeks is a breeze compared to most other companies. I think i waited like 4 to 6 months from another company.

And here I was running 10k/4 subs wondering if it'd be too much lol. I haven't received any tracking or anything, but I'd imagine I'm in this 2nd week of May thing?

Awesome, we definitely need more competitors in the TN area. Looking forward to the progress!

I own a 1997 K1500 suburban 5.7l and have a Mechman alt and don't ever needing that information. I'm not quite sure of the crankshaft pulley size either so good luck on getting that.

Wasn't asked, so it'd make sense that you didn't.

No worries, good luck.

BTW, The master amp controls the settings for both amps once setup correctly. Remember not to bass boost!

Any pics of these DOA's? What is this person wiring to? Perhaps anything they put in their ride will go up in smoke if they have such bad luck. Which model did this person keep having such bad luck with? I don't doubt this person having issues, but I'd like some type of validity for myself since I have 1 Ct4k and another that'll be here tomorrow. Have a bad run in with Coleman or something? lol I personally was able to put up my ct4k against a crescendo 5500 head to head in my truck and the ct4k edged over the nendo by a tiny margin. My tests were at 1ohm final load with a mechman elite on 3 batts with the ct4k scoring a 147.2 and the nendo scoring a 146.6. These tests were performed 1 after the other with the nendo going first and a xs power 1005 topping off the batts before each burp. Scoring was done on a average of 5 burps on 4 18" Obsidian's with charging done between each burp. Test was done inside a garage so temperature wouldn't be affecting and also checked the temperature of the subs between each burp and never tested if the coils were over 140F. Average coil temperature was right at 115-124 degrees each burp. This small temperate variation had no affect on overall output. So at least the 4k passed my test for what I needed it for. The disclaimer i'd leave is this is MY setup and obviously these will change with anyone elses. So FFS don't go thinking these could be replicated in any fashion for your ride. The nendo might be better or the same, who the hell cares? I honestly just like the all black case design.

Sure can. Bridge out on master goes to bridge in on the slave. Then just run the neg speaker terminals together and use the Positive from the master for your positive to sub and the positive from the slave to your negative of your sub.

Looks like pictures of a Taramps HD8000

Never heard of him, this is awesome stuff!!! Wow, you never heard of him and I have. That's a first, dude has been out quite a few years. I guess only way I remember is cause of the cool names Autobot and J2k lol

Sorry buddy, there aren't many bass noobs here. Might wanna try smd or cawkhoe

Audiopipes sold and AQ2200's sold. Bump for new Sonido price.

That was a pair.