shizzzon

oh, i need to remove that. I never owned one, just modded a bunch, but i quit doin that long time ago. I got some spare fans lying around that goes into the original boards that kept Red ringin all the time. Now im waitin for the Wii U to come out so i can strip it down and mod the hell out of it. For how much that thing can do, i'll make it my own tablet cell phone, lol. And don't think it isn't possible.. i'm pretty sure that controller can be converted into a workable tablet on the side.

u need to do somethings yourself. Go get a multimeter, a set of eyes, at least 1 ear and 2 hands and start inspecting, testing and looking at your install.

correct me if i'm wrong but how would phase control effect a single sub install, especially this problem?

not that steve mead damnit as i know who u r thinking about. Look for anything rhat doesnt look normal.

take the sub out of the box and inspect the spider carefully.

try and do a 135 at the doorway, lol

yeah that would be really cool... Texas is a big place though.. do you happen to know what part of Texas they are from? Bigjon- unknown cthedinger- houston

if all else fails, find bigjon or Cthedinger in texas and talk to them.

nope, havent had Corona in a while. I've been drinkin Rum lately.

Hmm.. someone keeps texting me pics of the beer i drink tellin me to go outside and work on this new build... Well.. little word to all of you patiently waiting for this insane build- We have a new Heatwave coming that's going to last for quite a while here.. Now, you know this is a hobby... I am NOT gonna be outside in this heat working on the car after i've already worked in it most of the day at work. So.. just be patient.. look at it this way- I'm still waiting on my subs to be built so there are things that is still holding this build up.

i box for KY? I own Eastern Union company large bucks. Pay with please? This in US, acceptable? Check ur email! I scam you long time.

nope, obviously that wire will be close to 20ft long

if your goal is to have the same voltage in the back as up front when HOT, then run a single 1/0 cable from Ground post on battery up front OR alternator ground bolt on case to ground post on battery in the rear. KEEP your amp grounded to the battery in the back AND keep your rear battery grounded to the frame\chassis as well. If you do not have rear battery, u need one for this to work. Typically, in daily drivers, i see 0.3-0.9v drop from front to rear once HOT.

why don't you layout your setup so we can see what you have then tell us how you are going to use your setup primarily so your question can be answered easier.

if u don't absorb anything, absorb this- Do NOT purchase a capacitor, end of story. Now, let's resume your thread.

Curious as to what triggered the Check Engine light.. Did they ever tell you what code that was?

I'm Sober-FREE! Let's chat!

lol. If he has 1 batt for every amp or an amount fo batteries that is divisible by the amount of bass amps he is using. IE- 8 amps and 8 batts. 8 amps and 24 batts (3 per amp).. etc... Even distribution and proper wiring of each amp is crucial. Wiring in a straight bar on down results in every battery that is further away from the amp's power line discharges LESS current and will continue to. Now, i'm assuming in the pic that he has power line(s) coming from both ends of the bank. That would indicate, if i'm seeing that properly that half the amps are on the left, other half on the right... IF he really only has 7 batts.. that is probably his best bet to a degree... If he access to some BIG ASS chunk of aluminum bar, i could suggest something else but too troublesome since everything is working. I'm real picky about performance and safety and getting the most out of equipment.

That's the thing.. I do not know how many batteries he actually has as i have stated earlier and also earlier if he has only 7.. then i can't make a good suggestion.

i never made reference to how loud it is. I stated the way the batteries are wired, the owner is not getting the full use out of his batteries and his performance is probably about half the batteries i see if wired properly. If you do not know his quanity of equipment i asked earlier, then i can't make a suggestion.

yes.. any quantity amount looks crazy. If someone could tell me exactly how many batts and bass amps he has, perhaps i could make a good suggestion. But, if it's only what i see, 8 bass amps and 7 batts.. that's not really ideal.

it's sad that the vehicle with all those kinetik batts is only seeing about half of those batts worth of performance the way he has it wired...

i built a box for an AQ hdc3 15 few yrs ago that was 8cuft tuned to 29hz. It's like i'm reading my own post, lol. Anything over 40hz was terrible... Reason- AQ HDC3 is a PEAKY sub. Therefore, you shouldnt have built the box as big if you wanna keep that sub. The BTL, cant remember off top of my head, but definitely isnt as peaky as the HDC3 is. A 15" HDC3 needs to be in 4-4.5cuft tops for typical playback tuned at 35hz or higher. Any lower than 35hz regardless of volume unless below ~3.5cuft rolls off upper notes too soon.

ALL ALTERNATOR SPEC SHEETS are rated at ALT rpms, not engine... It is up to the USER (unless overdrive pulley comes with alt) to know what the ratio of crank to alternator is. a 3:1 ratio means 800 engine is 2400rpm alt.

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