shizzzon

note- never mount crossover in the door. this is a rule followed by all proper mobile installers precisely for this reason. There are drain holes in doors to allow water to fall thru and drain out.. no electronics should be mounted inside this area.

well.. the reason why the alt may have been putting out high 150s only might be because that's all the demand there was from it... It's typical, nothing wrong with current side. I still say either the regulator or that module they tied into it is screwed up.

batteries are ALWAYS live... Put in fuses before you start the car. Also.. install fuses last before starting car...meaning leave fuses out but go ahead and ground everything. That way, the circuit will complete in the fuse holder. IF there is any arcing from a grounding power wire, it's best that it be in the fuse holder rather than at the battery itself.

So what did u guys think of all those sexy pics of me? Lmao..

honestly, the current terminals i use sucks ass.. I'm gonna fab up some flat run of aluminum and use that as battery terminals and see if it fixes problem. For protecting the aluminum against it grounding out, do i just spray paint over the aluminum after all terminals are in place?

I don't know what the problem is, i'm just thinking it's ignition based. Bout 45 days ago, i got in my car and noticed the clock was reset. reset meaning battery disconnected and reconnected... when this happens it will start off at 1:00. I didn't know why it did that so i forgot about it. 1 Week later, it did it again.. but this time i was in the car when it did it. It did it WHILE i was starting the car. Things installed in the car currently- Viper alarm with immobilizer bypass and remote start. 200A solenoid (ignition turn on wire tapped off of ignition wire from radio). When it did it when i was in it, i could hear the solenoid in the back rapidly for that 1sec switching on and off... So i thought the solenoid was the problem.. Long story short, i have disconnected the solenoid and it still happens so solenoid is not the problem... 30days later (it has still been doing this in 1 week intervals.. IT HAS ALSO done it as soon as shut the car off too!) So now we are up to recently, within the past 5 days- Now my clock resets almost every 2 days but it's getting slightly worse. Worse means when my clock resets, now my AC controls and headunit settings are reset also, like a full loss of power in a split second?!?! 3 days ago- i get in the car, the clock is OFF when car is off.. then is rapidly came on and went off again.. I put key in car and turn it to ignition mode only, clock came on and stayed on along with all other electronics?!?! ^^ That has only happened once. That same day, i started the car up and let it set on idle for bout 20sec... After that, car just died, no stutter, shake nothing.. just died as if i turned the key off.. Nothing reset, electrical was fine at that time. I started it up and drove off. That same night, while i was driving, i got 2 sets of BEEP codes coming from under the dash... One was beeping 5 times then stopped. The other was a constant beep for about 3 seconds then stopped... This beeping is like when the door is open when key is in ignition for example. Something like that. Now today, i get in it, start it up, as soon as is turned over, it dropped REAL low like it was about to stall out in 1-2seconds then came back up to it's stock idle and ran fine... wtf is happening here? I have appointment with shop who installed alarm and remote starter saturday but they say they highly doubt it's their product\install based on what all is happening with the car... Dealer wants $90\hr to diagnose from scratch... Give me something to do, ideas, anything because if it keeps getting worse.. it might not start up or might die while i'm driving.. either way.. i need this fixed asap.. My build is halted until this problem is completely resolved.

oooh.. i wouldnt have done that.. You should ask me first before spending money.. that's why i exist, lol. there are MANY ways to upload pics to PB... sometimes one way wont work eventually.. alternatives are there.. I've had issues with them before.. they eventually fix it.. For my problem, it took them 2 months but they did it....

haha, no i fixed it before i left because the timing was off...

word of advice.. you cannot just swap subs and the other one be audibly louder.... Subs are not that different from one to another. You know, one of my comp buddies loudest setup was using a single Alpine Type R... Since then, he's tried AQ HDC, Fi BTL, DD 9500... They were all metering less than 1db from each other... That isn't audible.. The box and tuning has a greater effect than what sub you use.

i dont think it's that high but i cant remember really what your estimated price would be...

when compared to a 4" bl loaded, bout same price.

yep.. i'll be running a 5500d @0.5ohm per xl on this build i'm doin right now.

wtf? I'm not going to backtrack your math down to almost a billionth.. Human error is by far more inaccurate than calculations... Simplify this better. I'll make it easy for you- Internal dimensions- Height, width, depth. Multiply those 3 in unit of inches and divide by 1728. Now take displacement of port, both subs and bracing and subtract from answer above. Also- if u want destructive lows.. 3-3.25cuft net for these 2 10s would be killer. Going with 2.5cuft is still fine though.

i'll help you out.. The Level4s handled 7,000w on multiple burps without harm. Running 7,000w of power to them for daily, eh... they will last 10 seconds before the coils start to stink. So there you go, 7x the rated power. Peak my ass...

So.. where is the box at? lol.. ok.. well, you'd be mounting it where flat surfaces are. IF there are flat areas right under the box, look and see if you can access the flooring area under the car at those points.. regardless of where it's at, you have to make sure you don't drill into something, you would be drilling out of the floor into nothing else. Use plenty of silicone to prevent rust and bolt\nut the enclosure down.

where is ur box at?

either that or he's in jail for allegedly killing his passenger with a khaotik enclosure... Doesn't sound good at this point.

well.. u shouldnt ask me since i'm competitor biased and don't daily my stuff like other people do... I ran 6 3500ds on stock alternator and 2 batteries for a few months in my scion... My definition of daily is on very low power so electrical system upgrades for me daily is almost pointless. Like i said, it's all in how you play it.

lol, any sub company can get loud... There is nothing special about any one sub company that i can think of that would make them the best for spl. DC is popular because of what you get for the price, there many lines to choose from(they had 3 non-published lines, now they have 2, Neo and Level6), great custom addons and mods that can be done, customer service, and the fact that you are buying something that is not cheapily built, something that is just as strong as any other decent company's product.

you should do the Big 3 and nothing else.. Monitor your system the way you play it and that will determine where and how your voltage and battery capacity is effected..

SSA subs are awesome too.. The Zcons are gonna go a LONG way with their potential and price point.

I don't see their results being copied nor many of their product lines...

i hope that doesnt happen to me... I'm workin on putting 4 18" DC XLs in my scion tc...

lol...one little knob just gave you a huge increase in sound pressure.

^^ You are going to "try" and mod the voltmeter to turn on and off via switch? If you are unsuccessful.. quit car audio, lol... Also, after reading page one, multi runs of power or ground from front to back is ONLY necessary if you have a large alt or alts up front. That single battery up front, even if it's a G31 will not help you nowhere near as much as the batt(s) in the rear will. So.. stick with running wire that meets the requirement for your alternator instead.