shizzzon

well, u do have a bl. It's goal from what i understand is not to be super smooth but rather peakish.

added 7 new songs. They are at the bottom of the list on first post.

then u misunderstood my posts... I wasn't fighting or arguing about anything. I'm purely laying out guidelines for proper testing comparisons. Sure both of u being on a termlab would be fine to be equal but isn't necessary. Did you know i've seen 2 different termlabs ben more than 1 full db off from another? Like i say, spl-lab meter being used is perfectly fine. My goal isn't to prove david backs the score up again or better or worse... Anybody who requests such precise proof needs just as much show and tell as the other person.. I keep seeing people get so defensive.. IF people just stop and understand it's to HELP you understand rather than being a victim of something, then the forum will be educated.

eh... not exactly...

you can't request something without proving yourself... How bout i go throw my meter in a port on low volume and so somethihg loud then ask one of you guys to beat me? I'm not accusing kryptonite for doing that, lol, but point proven.. do NOT call someone out without proof yourself. It'll bite you in the ass. And sorry if he doesn't get put on a termlab in advance this saturday or not.. Termlab isn't the end all pressure meter. there is none that exist.. but termlab is highly overrated. and no, i'm not saying that because i appear to be biased. I own one and it doesn't work because of engineering flaw and that will never happen with any other company no matter who they are... I am surprised they have been built the way they have for so long.. sad really.

hope u have more than 1 alt to give away then....

Can you point me to any of those vids where it shows where the meter is and what time in the video? Because i didnt see it anywhere... Also, termlab is only accurate down to 20hz so anything below that cannot be accepted as accurate.

There is a collection of songs being made... I will release them tomorrow before i prepare to head to slamology saturday morning.

Let me chime in on here to conclude this topic. You want it to be on aTermlab.. You want it to be legal metered... If you want so much.. then PROVE to us that your score was legal metered on a termlab I designed his street box for that van. I also own the company in the USA of the meter he used to measure his score. He told me the meter was placed on the windshield with the door open playing a test tone. No, that is not considered legal but until you prove to us your's was, then it will not be comparing like scores properly. He purchased that meter directly from us and is tested at the factory in Russia to be within 0.1db of a Termlab prior to shipping to me. You will be surprised within the next couple years when Termlabs start to suddenly disappear and be replaced with something different... PS- it's already happening, just nothing big in your eyes yet. The Termlab is only looked at being "big" because it "WAS", not is, WAS the only major accurate pressure meter in the USA being sold and used in competitions. Times change and nothing last forever. Now.. having said all that... This is not a fact but he is going to slamology this saturday.. Maybe if we are lucky.. we can make some magic happen.

rar file requires Winrar = www.rarlabs.com

I call Bullz!

BIG UPDATE! We are about to change the way the meters are secured to the windshield! A new version of suction cups is being imported at the end of next week and we will be posting pics of the new design. ALL owners and future owners of our meters will have or have the opportunity to get the new suction cup design FREE of charge. Why are we doing this? Every now and then, customer may complain of the suction cup not sticking for extended periods of time and the cup needs to be cleaned off or re-sealed because they are held in via screws that are drove through the suction cup. What is going to be new with the new design... Well first off, let me explain about how they currently are... Because the screws are drove through the suction cups, it creates a massive air leak which prevents the cup from sticking. So to combat this, silicone is poured into the cup to seal it off... The problem with this is the silicone only lasts for several months for continuous use.. This is unacceptable! So, here are all the benefits of the new design- SCREWLESS DESIGN! This design is engineered in a way that part of the cup will "pop" into the casing and once locked into place.. cannot be removed unless you physically cut the cup in half! These new suction cups are fitted perfectly to our current meter housings. SEAMLESS DESIGN! The current suction cups have a seam on every cup. This can potentially create an air leak under the cup because the seam doesn't help keep it attached to a surface. PULL-TAB DESIGN! This allows the user to pull the suction cups off the glass via a small tab rather than prying your finger underneath the cup everytime. Doing this can cause scratches in the cup which can make it weaker and sometimes if in a hurry, pulling the meter off the windshield could actually rip the cup right off! Not anymore! RESISTANT TO SUNLIGHT! This doesn't play too much into the usage of what our users use them for but the feature prevents heat buildup from around the suction cup and prevents the heat from interfering with the suction.

yea, u know audiobahn copied that sub design from the ground up.. seriously.. Built it lookin ugly.. and can only handle power for a couple seconds when given it's rated power before u literally to get blowed off your feet. But not from a high pressure reading.. from using college ruled paper cone... sad sad sad.. My paper shredder is louder than that and it's powerless.

why do u need it stronger? IF you seriously need to attempt to reinforce with fiberglass.. then u braced it wrong. The point of resin-ing alone for car audio is strictly for competition purposes, never for daily driving. Also, even then, i compete and i do not resin either. I could if i wanted a coupel to a few tenths on the meter but for all that work over and over and over and over and over again... brushing and sanding brushing and sanding brushing and sanding... I'm sure i can find other ways to increase a few tenths.

oh i know what it is.. He didn't calculate his impedance curve.. it was crazy high so he could use smaller wire.

When you have to call the Sheriff's department to determine if bracing the windshield with steel bracing is street legal so you can continue building your setup. (this does not involve my current setup) When the payload rating of your tires on a small hatchback equal that of a half ton truck. When u got more wood in your car than Larry Flynt ever had anywhere. When you have to special order glue from out of state because absolutely nothing local works under these pressures. When your build is done, the crash test rating of your car is higher than that of a Brinks truck. When going for the volume control causes your passengers to get an adrenaline rush.

54.7, yea if on a termlab.. it's frequency graph isn't as precise as ours is

well that doesn't make any sense how did Dr. Emmett Brown (from the back to the future series) only use 1 flux and still travel back and forth in time... it must have been the plutonium! and even his flux made like 1.2 gigawatts of power! (rms lol) lol.. yea 2 questions about that... What size wire was he using in his car? 5000/0 wire? Or did it step up the voltage to 1,000,000V? Hmm... wonder what kind of protection that wire had?

i would never suggest using those fluxcaps as an upconverter from 14 to 18v ever for increased power output.... Here is why- I've talked to them before and they only work well if u have a 12v electrical system with 16v batts in the car... U can use the flux caps to keep the 16v batts charged but never think for a sec running fluxcaps to get higher voltage to your amp is a gain in output power, effectively.. Here is why- Lets say running ur 12v amp requires 500A of output to get to 5000w @10v (unrealistic numbers) Well.. at 18v and 500A of output, it does 9000w. Well.. lets say you already got the battery bank to sustain 500A of output @10v(that should be easy, lol) You now install the 18v fluxcaps.. What they do not tell u on the website is increasing voltage to the caps DECREASES current output. They are limited to 1,470w sustained output without tripping. So at 17.9v, max current out is- 82.12A Now.. to sustain 500A load, you would need SIX, not five now, but SIX fluxcaps = 493A so close enough. So, six fluxcaps = 17.9v x 493A = 8820W compared to 5000w @10v... But look at the cost! 6 fluxcaps? That's around $2,000 for less then double the power. So, do NOT ever use these for that purpose.

too bad u didnt have Kicker wire in there.. Kicker is very identical to Knu Kolossus cable! Also.. i've always wished someone would test that retarded ass priced IXOS power wire off ebay. Wire is $10 per foot.. it better be like 1/0 wire, 7/0 performance, lol.

i honestly do not know how to properly(consistently) compare 14 SEPERATE times current flow, voltage drop, etc per wire.... Battery capacity plays too much of a variable for such test... If one could get access to an infinite power source or completely stable output.. Actually.. i do know one thing that outputs consistent power... but it isn't cheap. Harrison Flux Cap. If you know anybody that has some because one isn't enough.. then you could try that. Battery voltage doesn't effect output capability of a Fluxcap. It would be stupid to buy a couple though for this test as they are around $300 or more depending on where you buy them per cap.

4 8s in a quasi 8th ordered, t-line per chambered, ISO-baric, folded horn design on 613.4w on a small range of frequencies between 31.2 - 54.7Hz

one thing i'd like to add- Even though i think the monster cable wire is stupid for it's price... There should be power testing rather than just tech details listed only... It's like comparing box designs in winisd only and saying yep.. this design will definitely be the loudest, regardless of what happens. One thing about real world power tests is Monster claims that magnetic rod in the center of the wire supposedly helps current flow. You wouldn't know that without comparing all wire in a real world test.

i just wanted to tell you this now just in case u see this before we see each other at slamology- We both know you are not a veteran box builder, we are all here to learn from what we build and progress with each build we do next... I am also assuming that this is your first wall and many people that do their first wall somewhat fail at properly doing it. I even failed at my first wall somewhat on purpose because i wanted to learn what happens when running bare minimum support.... Having said this and looking at your progressive pics of this wall.. I just wanted to tell you that you are doing EXCELLENT progress, Chop. It appears you have absorbed the proper knowledge and was able to just jump right in with no past wall experience but so far so good! This comment should kep you motivated on top of the better weather here lately now to continue moving forward. Feel good that you are not guessing your way through this build, you are doing it right!

i dont know the techy techy side of it but from what i've seen, neos typically have higher rise than ferrite. I don't know if that's always a fact but there are videos online of a single neo running off an 11,000w on a single 3" coil and never fried. You can look at it two ways- Neos can be seen as efficient because of the ability to draw less power for the same potential output or... innefficient because of the additional power they can handle to really get them going crazy.. I tend to look at them from the first point of view. dont worry about it.. I remember one time i had a single 15 in 8cuft wired at 0.7 and rose to 4.2ohms, just 2hz above tuning on a 1500w amp long time ago on ferrite motor.