shizzzon

u order direct from them.. IF i were you, i'd either do plenty of research on their site or call them unless you know exactly what u are planning on buying. US Composites

i have never had luck with jb weld nor locktite 5min heavy duty epoxy... It may partly be because of the cleanliness of the surface i was using but i gotta tell ya... US Composites Fasco 110 makes for one helluva strong bond and can handle up to 300F. I don't know if they would recommend using it on something like radiator because i do not knwo what all it is resistant to but they have many fillers they sell that can be mixed in with their epoxy resin. Not sayin try it now but for future reference, i'm sold on their products.

oh, you might wanna wait a little bit before getting another meter from me. The next batch i'll order will be in red only but they will also have a turn on wire like the stingers. They have the same accuracy as the blue meters but because they have turn on wire, no relay or switch install will alter the accuracy of the meter if not running hard-wired.

r u prepared to build the enclosure yourself? And if so, the entire thing inside the trunk, not a drop in? IF so, give me the dimensions of the inside of the trunk so i have something to go by.

u got a bench tester? if not, u should be able to buy one from radio shack for around $50 or less locally. All u need is something small.. 5A supply would probably be as small as i'd go for 12v. Hook headunit up to that and see if it works on there. If u need help on hooking headunit up to power supply, let me know, it's real easy.

interesting u say that... That means resistance in the turn on wire influences the accuracy of the meter GREATLY! That's kinda a turn-off to me.

then typically i would say the amp is faulty.. BUT.. they said it wasn't.. Do u have the amp right now?

i just checked that thread and i was in there trying to help him diagnose it... Basically it came down to this- he said clipping light always remained on. As far as i know, clipping light is on the remote gain knob only. So he removed rcas and speaker wire and clipping light was still on and no sound.... I told him to REMOVE the remote gain controller from the amp as a last resort to see what happened but instead he swapped out for a hifonics and worked fine. Now AQ tells him the amp works fine... At this point.. sounds like the remote gain knob was faulty but he never checked it...

they better be true DCR 0.9-1.0 and not 0.7s... Anything below 0.9, more than likely 1ohm stable amp won't be able to handle it. Is this for daily or competition? IF it's daily, i'd say 15s.

the big 3 alone won't give you perfect voltage in the back. Grounding the alternator to the front and rear will. But do not use this method as a primary ground, only secondary. Chassis ground "works", but wired ground added will make it perfect.

so... we are to assume it's AQ's fault without any other information? How did it not work? What wasn't working? That could be 100 things... you are too broad.. AQ wouldnt send back an amp to you if it wasn't working. I see too many threads about people not knowing how to setup AQ amps which they are the same as any other modern non-mainstreamed company.

it should be reading 0.925 ohms. Either you are measuring the ohm load wrong, the dmm is way off or your 1.2ohm measured sub is partially damaged as well.

i'm thinkin bout doin it out of spite, lmao... Just some random 6sec song, haha

Added 5 more... custom redone lyrical bass tracks.

yep, in order to use calculators, it needs to know the NET volume of enclosure only. Example- u have a 5cuft box...INTERNAL inside, the port takes up 1 cuft and the sub takes up 0.3 cuft So the actual internal NET volume is 3.7cuft and that's what you'd use in the calculator.

see.. now it's my fault the sub got damaged and i'm 400 miles away...

My WHOLE collection up to this point is now entirely available in the first post of this thread... When i have time, i will put more in there as time goes on.

yea but is that USD or Loony? (did i spell that right?)

yea man, few yrs ago i drove down to south florida right when Georgia and half of Florida was on fire... ALL major interstates were shutdown from georgia to Miami! imagine my road trip.. freakin back roads for over 600miles... I couldnt really breathe outside it was so bad.. it would choke me up it was so suffocating.

I secretly added lots more! More to come tomorrow....

if u damage them.. then you do not know what you are doing.. One of my buddies at one of our meetups ran 2 SA-12s on a Saz-3500d for 3min on a lil jon song without problems. I burped an SA-12 once on an AQ3500d. It bottomed out a few times but i still was able to get the score out of it.

Lots more added.. Still adding right now.. got to upload a ton more...

i had\have a request thread in the IAK section of this site.. but if u go in there.. there are quite a bit of songs people posted i havent even got to yet.. I have TONS of songs to listen to first and determine if i want to do them before i run out of my collection and NEED some more to tinker with.

if u bring a single spider with you, fake or not, i'm shooting you with SPF whatever. Then i'll shoot the spider.

no.. a single effective run from alt to front battery is FINE. about 90% of the current supply will come from the rear battery bank and alternator alone. VERY little comes from the front battery. Therefore it's common sense not to attempt to feed the front battery tons of wire from the alternator. The only reason why you would have multi runs off the front batt to the rear is if u are using that wire for the purpose of getting the back batts a charge off the alternator. Alternator's post isn't as large so u can run more wire off a battery than you can directly off of an alternator. Now.. when it comes to 2 ground runs... that should be ran DIRECTLY from the alternator's case to the back, not from the front batt... Doing it this way can help voltage a little if it isn't perfect under load right now. I also forgot to add.. a short run of 2/0 (less than 8ft) of power off a 270XP is plenty to supply power to the back via 2 power runs from front batt. no need in doubling up... Single run of kolossus cable or kicker cable is fine. any other brand, doubling up may be necessary to prevent resistance.