shizzzon

looks like a nice 10sec pipeline. What does it do off the line?

i'm a post whore!

i got somethin for ya.. give me a few

i really like the triangle one

hey cranberry, i havent seen u post on here in a long time... We all gettin back together for slamology '11?

then why would other brands not receive damage when running too much voltage out of the preouts? Are they using filters for such things?

just a quick thought.... Do u have that remote control plugged up on that AQ2200d? If u do.. your gain will only be 3\4 of the way up if that remote is turned all the way up...

i'd really like to know what causes it though. I used to own a pioneer bout 10 yrs ago and it never did.. but i've worked with other people's cars that have pioneer headunits and they have done it and of course the many others who have reported it too. The best way to find out the cause.. if they will tell you, is the manufacturer. Now, as easy as it sounds, how many users online have actually consulted the manufacturer about faults like this? lol

sounds like a pioneer headunit very few kenwoods do that.. but pioneer's are destined too..

i heard about someone doin something like this a few yrs ago. Someone wanted to buy this guys new laptop that was only used for a few days for around $2000 but the guy new it was a scam cuz it was like how u described it and was out of the country. It went on a message board FOREVER. Basically he packed up a fake computer. made a laptop out of cardboard and drew everything on the pieces with a black marker with a big finger on the fake screen. He sent the money to an odd account that miracuously closed before he could withdraw it.... He already knew it would happen cuz everybody knew it was a scam... Well, he was out paying to ship internationally... BUT... the receiver(the scammer) had to pay over $200 in custom fees just to receive it, lol He had record showing the receiver received it... and never heard from him again, lol. they kept close email convo until he received the fake laptop.

Hmm... Have you ever came home from a different day? You have us on the edge of our seat, doc!

good luck It's prob more than u can handle....

Here u go, I am the test tone generator- http://www.box.net/shared/ne34xdoeqs

not to take sides but this side of the story can come up to- What if the weather predictions stated for that day said no rain yet it rained unannounced... You come through an area that it had rained unknowingly and it froze over.. You slide and wreck. Even though the complex may have been illegally using water, it can still fall back on the driver being negligent. What if you hit someone? It's a dominoe effect... They would sue you, then you would have to try and sue the owner who was using the sprinkler system... All i gotta say is, the lawyer better be pretty wise...

Really? what proof do u have that AQ amps dont do well at low voltages when that AQ amp is capable of running at a steady 8v. What readily marketed amps do you see capable of doing that? It sounds like either the sub is damaged, the amp install is not properly secure causing amp failure while driving around, remote turn on lead from headunit is faulty, rcas are faulty(and i'm not talking just about the cables either)

i didnt have time to reread what i typed. i was having a headache.. hence the rant..

Exactly my point- I am tired of people looking at WATTAGE values and trying to base their new electrical system off of that.... With a dmm, u can see what type of voltage drop a user is getting...

I do need to add onto this though as i feel i left a gaping hole in this rant... If your voltage is ALWAYS dropping to 13v or lower or even worse, stays there during jammin.. STOP DOING THAT. The alternator can get killed by doing that. this is what i would do in this case- go buy a True RMS Ammeter. Set car at idle(park), blast it for a few seconds and record maximum current out at idle from alternator. This is a number u never wish to see again If u feel u do not have enough alt power.. periodically check current output levels when in park to make sure your alt is not maxed out in park when stereo is off. this is too ensure that the alt is not being overworked to maintain batteries. Again.. if voltage is always dropping to 13v or lower.. I WOULD recommend either upgrading alt or turn the volume DOWN.. alt failure can and will happen eventually... if prolonged

I know you guys are.. and i am too... Everyday.. every other day... 6 minutes ago... either here or elsewhere, people are ALWAYS asking how many batteries, is this enough battery, is my alt strong enough, how many alts will i need, etc.... Well... i've been meaning to say this for a while and it seems it's time now. STOP PUTTING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM QUESTIONS UP ON A PEDESTAL! Just because you may want to install 2,000w on stock electrical system doesn't mean it's immediately going to suffer catastrophic failure! This is where we, as a group, teach common sense..... Let's look at absolutes vs varied values- Hooking up amp(s)- They MUST be wired and grounded- Absolute They use a minimum suggested power source with good results - Varied They draw power - Absolute Their power draw varies RAPIDLY - Varied results Now for more precise examples- Stock electrical - 100A alt, stock 60aH batt. Amp install- 2,500w total The amp will draw more power than without it being installed - Absolute The amp will work regardless if using stock or upgraded electrical system - Varied The amp will NOT be harmed under proper monitoring and control of electrical system due to poor or stock electrical system - Absolute! So what is the reason for upgraded electrical system vs stock? The answer is VERY simple! This is why i will repeat this- STOP PUTTING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM UP ON A PEDESTAL! The less capable an electrical system is... the more the voltage will drop. I'm hoping everyone knows this... (i'm not going to get into the technical details of why higher voltage is better, it's just a given. but stressing over achieving certain high voltage numbers is just stupid for daily driving..) The question is.. what is YOUR threshold? There is no set voltage that everybody says, yea that's my threshold... All you need is a DMM.. that's it.. little few dollar device is all you need. I recommend upgrading electrical system AFTER testing your new install.... not before... IF you do it before, you will probably be wasting money because you do not know exactly what you need\want. Common sense does come into play here... You can't install 3,000w on stock system and jam on it forever without checking things periodically... If you do not understand that statement as to why... you have more to learn before installing batts\alts yourself. So, this is what i recommend.. Install all your stuff... Purchase the LEAST amount of batt that would be ideal to get it functioning and test with dmm to measure voltage drop to determine if u need more batts or more alts. I'll give you an example- I ran 21,000w worth of amps on stock 100A alt, stock battery, 1 D3100 and 1 D5100 for 3 months. I ran demos on and off consecutively for about 45 min. I constantly checked voltage levels and current output from stock alternator EVERY FEW MINUTES while i was in park. If i were driving and had it cranked, these levels would be checked TWICE A DAY when in park. You gotta use your head and make sure that things are not being stressed. Am i recommending someone do as i did? NO NO NO. That is an example. It is to prove a point.. If you are new to the upgrade your electrical system game.. then sure, u can do that and see how much voltage drop you get the more you crank it up. Start off at low volume obviously and work your way up. How to tell if u need more batts or more alts? Assuming you are testing this at the given rpm value you wish to have good voltage, then continue- Most AGM batts top out fully charged at 13.0-13.1v when your car is above 13-13.1v, your alternator is in control. If the voltage ever drops to 13-13.1v, your alt is maxed out it's output at that particular rpm value. If you want higher voltage, u need better or more alts... Is it necessary? Hell no! If your voltage drop is dropping below 13-13.1v, your batt(s) either need charging immediately or you just do not have enough batt power to efficiently keep up with the current demand. Is it necessary to get more in that case? Hell no! Everyone's opinion varies because it's personal preference. Here is my preference for daily driving- I do not EVER want to see voltage drop below 12.0v on the hardest bass note possible! IF it does, you NEED more batts(or alts if u got the room for them. Remember, below 13v.. your alt is maxed out)... If voltage drops below 12.0v.. you are discharging your batts quicker than i would recommend and will take longer to charge them up and continuous use like this WILL result in the shortening of it's suggested life span. The lower the discharge and discharge state before a recharge, the longer a batt will last... Period! So what did we get from this? Use minimum electrical system with a bit of common sense to back it up. Use DMM to periodically test maximum voltage drop and base your upgrades off of that. Do NOT be stupid and use too low of an electrical system on a gigantic install power-wise. Use your volume knob if you are unsure of what your current electrical system can provide.. Remember, keep gradually turning it up another couple notches and measure voltage drop until u reach the max volume you wish to listen to it at(example of how to do it). this will save you money on overkill of buying batts and the questions on if u have enough.... If you any questions about what minimum electrical system will suffice.. READ THIS AGAIN until u hate car audio. If you do not know.. you are not comprehending.... At volume 1, it will not pull the same power as it will at volume 30 and so on... ANY electrical system can support an install... It's just at what volume level? Happy testing.. i hope.. I hope many of you grasp this as it's not hard at all...

i would not recommend using an isolator even for it's intended purpose.. Because of voltage drop... how is the alt going to efficiently charge the rear battery? It won't.... Also, a SOLENOID isn't needed in your scenario either. For your "added protection" in case one battery dies.. how? Give me an example as to how you may think this might happen? They are both installed and age the same and certified to be brand new. They are both made by the same line and same model number. It's the same battery.. just 2 external cases instead of 12 cells in one large case. Again, no need for it here. If you are that concerned about it.. (you should have this anyway), go out and buy u an AGM battery charger that's micro-processor controlled and periodically check the batts DISCONNECTED to see if they both are maintaining the same individual charging levels. If they are not.. it's probably because the cable(s) from the front to the rear are either not enough, not large enough or too much resistance in the run from point A to point B. These batts should equally put out and discharge together as if they were side by side.

It might be too late to fix it now.. Once you go black, you never go back

unless u had a loose speaker connection... i would assume so... However, can you cause your amp to shut off if u crank it to the max for just a few seconds? I've messed around with several setups where the signal going into amp is clipped so bad that it causes the amp to go into protect and right before it does, it causes the sub(s) to play some odd oscillating tone. RCA grounding problem in headunit is main problem with those type of setups. If u got a Pioneer or Kenwood headunit, you may want to wait on exchanging your amp if u fall into this category...

ok, there we go. Well, we have successfully found out it's not caused from improper wiring.

lol, magnets stuck at customs.. They prob wondering why all these boxes are "fighting" with each other all day long.... Oh wait.. We know why.. there must be magnets in these boxes, lol.. They pass....

unless u wired\types it wrong, there is a problem with the diagram that shows final load of 1.8ohms... that diagram shows 2 subs being wired in parallel all the way to the amp. Using 2 dual 3.2ohm subs, a final parallel wire load should be - 0.8ohms, not 1.8ohms.. . Something is not right there.