shizzzon

i just checked and u are right!

i know ///m5 says clipping lights are useless for music but when i used to use those lights on aq amps, running twice as much power to each sub, as long as i didnt stay in the clipping zone, AQ or DC subs could take 2kw wired load all day long without getting smelly. Now, if i left music in the clipping area where it mostly stayed red the whole time, it would take a matter of a few seconds before they would start cooking.

oh and a side note... you live in Indiana. If you have any problems about anything, get your hoosier ass down to louisville, ky Several of us can help you. There are also many people in the surrounding IN area that are fond of car audio troubleshooting as well.

what i would do is check voltage BEFORE starting it up to leave to go to work or school. You don't wanna check it after you turn it off unless u do it several hours afterwards. This will ensure u get an accurate reading. Your battery should rest either at 12.8-13.0v when fully charged. IF your battery is reading 12.5v or lower, i would be a little concerned about longevity.

when u got it on like that, take your hands and start moving them around the surround of the sub and around the box checking for air leaks.

oh yea, in that size, you will like it!

hehe, it's always a relief when you have the agreement of going back to 1 driver what exactly is this going in? and what is the internal gross volume of that box if it was NOT angled inwards? Give me numbers as if ALL sides except for top and bottom were dual layered.

find out the depth from the underside of the top ring to the bottom of the basket, then the height of the motor. Find the width of the motor and the descending width of the basket. You can then draw these measurements to see how it will fit. Note- because you are using double baffle, figure out how the sub is going to be mounted on these baffles. If it's flush mounted to the exterior baffle, then the mounting depth of the sub remains accurate. If the sub is not flush mounted, then subtract 0.75" from the mounting depth.

this is a time to get an ammeter.

that's a cool idea.

me and my cousin talked about travelin to the highest ranked ghost hotels and caves and stuff like that least year but we never did.. Wherever i would go if i did, seein somethin isnt good enough for me cuz u know dont know why u may be seein somethin... I would need some pretty hard ass proof like something pushed me down or somethin. I still think it would be fun though just to tell people that you'd been to some crazy haunted places.

not again.... have you properly gain matched your amp to ensure it's not clipping at maximum desired volume level? If your gain on your amp is maxed out and your head unit is too and you are still not clipping... then i would say yes but i highly doubt that's the case.

If someone can make a video worse than man... oh my god.... Anything is an improvement over mine. I think the only thing worse than my video is recording a MIDI, lmao.

more batteries

this might be a better approach- how much NET volume do you have for your wall right now? What's the loudest you've scored on a meter? You might be using too many subs..

if u do have voltage problems... Take a set of jumper cables and connect ground clamps only, one side to front battery, other side to rear battery ground if there is a battery back there or where the amp is grounded at. If voltage goes up.. u need a better ground or a whole run of ground. No change?, connect the power side and test. Remember- jumper cables more than likely not fused so when connecting power side, do NOT ground any end of those clamps!

Just wanted to let everyone know that purchased USB and USB Pro and RTA meters- We are currently looking into having an optional upgrade to make these meters go WIRELESS! We are both in the research and testing phase but we hope to have this successfully completed before the end of this year! Just something new to set us apart from the competition. Oh and also, anybody that also uses these meters with winvista or Win7, your calibration is wrong. You must be using vB3.0 for full compatibility. PM me for the updated software package that works with all versions of Windows.

yep normal cable. Just use a typical rca cable, just one of the two ends and run from Master BR Out to Slave BR in. Remember, whatever amp that has the headunits rcas going into it, that's the Master and that's the amp that will use BR Out

let me tell you somethin about trunks. Never install an 18 in the trunk unless it's like a town car type trunk and even then.. you may be pushin it. Just because the box may fit And be of sufficient size doesn't mean it will perform well when the whole trunk is the box. For a typical daily driver in a small car like that, If you like the lows, i'd fire sub forward, port to the passenger side tuned in the low 30s. A single 15, single 12 or 2 10s would work in those trunks. For a little bit more loud punchy bass that will feel like your chest is resonating... fire forward, port to driver side and tune in the high 30s like 36-40hz.

dont buy into the heavy duty regulator non sense... OE denso regulators is where it's at. when it comes to alts, you DO GET what u pay for.

i have no pics to show you.. it was tested by Harmon Kardon in an article they did a while back when testing various port types and flares to get best results from them.

same thing happened couple weeks ago with car--audio--classifieds--org. the owner got rid of the problem... Goes to show ya who's keepin their site clean and safe and who could care less...

cant remember exact model number but Sears has one for $99.99. It's microprocessor controlled for standard, gel and agm\flooded batteries. Specs are- 2A low, 15A and fast charge 40A. If you select the wrong current rate, the computer will compensate and adjust it for the best value based upon current charge level of the battery. I'd get it, it's nice as i have one. It also shows realtime voltage present at battery before, during and after charge is over as well as "%" of the battery's level before it's done charging. If you are not present when it finishes, it will stay in trickle and periodically shut off current output when batt is maxed all the way out. It's a little noise, i'd say in the ~40db-ish range.

they should be punished severily though. I mean come on... if u close to or over a 160, do NOT crank your stereo up pretty much anywhere. You will be heard from FAR away. Besides that, if you got a stereo that loud, you better be competing. Competing builds respect and will help keep tickets off your back.

that, and red nose, far away, dysfunctional, nothin, midwest choppers and Sickology 101. That cd is great.