shizzzon

for daily it doesnt matter.. for comp- besides trial n error in tuning it right, Aeros should ALWAYS be external, no bend and flared for best results. For even better results, if you have the room, the internal flare that mounts flush with the internal wall should be about 2x the flared diameter of the external flare so you would have to make that yourself.

no problem. I've been playin around with these meters to try and make them not work so i can troubleshoot issues before they happen to others. I've got all issues i've forced problems on answered just in case issues happen with anybody. So hopefully, there should be no unknown issue arise anytime in the near future...

i'll say it again.. it's not safe to run over 16v to your car... PLUS, many amps on the market can't even accept anything over 15.9v without going into protect.

if u dont know, then u have no experience in what u may have heard in the past. saying that, db number is irrelovent to know because u probably do not know what any number sounds like @ whatever note so dont worry bout it

15.3v. DO NOT USE THIS TO REPLACE A 12v SYSTEM. If u just gotta use it under the hood, u need to step the voltage down for it to be safe for the car. If you wanna use it for daily driving, u need either a separate alt keeping it charged or some stepdowns to prevent the car from running on too much voltage. Typical charge voltage i believe is 16.8v... WAY too high for a car without proper setup.

i am not a fan of individual chambers.. i prefer common chamber so u can count me out if no one else agrees with me

ANOTHER UPDATE- To ALL of those who received USB meters, they are NOW compatible with WinVista and Win7! PM me for the update. To ALL of those who received the LCD meters, the interference problem has been resolved when using the 12v adapter with the vehicle on! I will be receiving the new 12v converters in 2-4 weeks from now and anybody who needs one, just pm me and i will ship it out to you for free.

quit reading them then, hehe. here is a 200A solenoid- http://www.oznium.com/relay200 if u think u would be passing more CONTINUOUS current then that, then u would need another. You would parallel them together for 400A CONTINUOUS. Gotta make sure because if u try to pull too much current through a solenoid.. u could damage it. They are just a LARGE relay, it could melt... But i used to run 4,400w of AQ amps off a 250A alt on a single one and never had a problem.

u wouldnt want an isolator, u'd want a solenoid.... BUT... check the voltage levels after u charge them up to see how they rest. If they rest the same then don't worry about it. If they don't.. then my opinion is a solenoid. Isolator causes major voltage drop on the output.

yes, once power line leaves the starting battery and starts heading to back battery, put fuse within 18" of starting battery and within 18" of the back battery and within 18" of the amp. If your back battery rests higher or lower than your starting battery... your alternator will be in a constant cycle of charge all the time. It won't be at full output but it's not ideal if they rest differently. In my opinion, if this were the case, i would get a solenoid. I would charge each battery up separately to full charge, then install the solenoid. This will prevent the alternator from running in a low but constant charge cycle. I'll give u an example- let's say starting battery was at 12.7v and back battery was at 12.9v. When you connect them together, the back battery(because it has higher voltage) will dump partial load into the front battery to "equalize" the load. Typically, it would lower it to about 12.6v, lower than the lowest battery in the link, or 12.7v but definitely lower than 12.9v, the highest reading in this example. Now, this is what's goin on- Your front battery is being "charged" by your back battery but ur back battery was charged before you connected it to the front battery.... so now u start the car and the alt comes on.... The alt needs to charge the back battery because it keeps dumping a load into the front battery every time u turn the car off! Once u turn the car on, the alt is the king of the electrical system so there is no charging confusion when vehicle is on... but because u have an extra battery, every time the car is shut off, the battery drains out a little to keep front battery leveled because they rest differently... so now the alt has a load again next time u start it back up. this is an example that i've seen and could actually happen to me if i didnt use solenoids. My front battery rests at 12.8v and my back rests at 13.1v. When they combine, they all rest at 12.7v.. that's a 0.4v drop.. that's not good.

no, it plugs into the wire harness port on your alt then the car's harness plugs into the VCM harness.

what frequency are you playing? Make sure the subsonic and the LPF are not interfering with the tone u are using. Also, adjust sub level out on headunit as increasing this will give you a stronger signal at the amp which = higher AC voltage. make sure both rcas are in use. make sure bass on headunit is at 0 and not in the negatives. make sure EQ settings, if there are any, are all set to 0.

i tried...one audio shop said it wouldn't touch it and another said it could be an all-day project and couldn't give me a quote on it. An allday project day to do the big 3? Sounds like that shop is TOO lazy.

yea, i recently got a new projector and pics dont do them justice. They are just as sharp as would be expected. Watching 1080p action movies on a large 140-190in screen is just unreal.

That's his alias. He doesnt know his real name and neither does anybody else that knows him... He is black though.. He goes by Mona Tontany Mobba Rontany The Tlacf Bhiek Bouljy Soa he also said that his car is so many different colors, it looks as if it was done on purpose. His trunk or his back bumper area is purple and yellow. Wheels are in the 20s and solid white. Fenders are different colors as well.

i dont know... i'm not gonna be talkin bout it anymore to the guy because i dont want him to say anything to the guy if he ever sees him... My co-worker is the kinda guy that will tell anybody anything.. so i dont and wont know.

lol, it is serious. I'm gonna ask the guy tomorrow if that really is his real name or if that's just what he goes by.

Be on the lookout for a white body caprice or a car like it with the doors and hood replaced from the junkyard. I've been told the car is white with a different color door, different color hood, etc... rollin on large 20 somethin inch wheels. If you see this car in a parking lot, apartment complex, condo lot or neighborhood to go ahead and call the police and tell them suspicious activity is happening via this car. Word has it the owner of this vehicle just got out of prison for 7yrs of theft and is back out and doin it again. Do not approach this guy or anybody else for that matter as they are packing... They scour lots days before a theft and have lots of tools and security keys for removing wheels and breaking into vehicles via locks instead of windows. Because he has a record, do not hesitate to call the police because this has to stop and i was also told that if u havent heard.. He was also the one who recently stole an MTX sub directly off display at LNS audio. I do not know him, the person who told me this knows of him and has met him before but has no communication with him due to his lifestyle. His nephew is friends with him and his nephew is always in and out of jail for theft as well.. His nephew just got incarcerated couple days ago anyway. Again.. if u see this vehicle in a neighborhood, parking lot, apartment complex, etc... call the police. White body car, possible caprice with different color door(s) and different color hood on large wheels. Might get lucky and he might be carrying if police catch him. I do not know where he lives as i do not want any more involvement with info of this guy. I was told his name is (switch the first letter of the first name with the last name first letter and vice versa and the last letter of first name to last letter of last name as well so search results do not pick it up)- Mona Tontany DO NOT POST HIS ACTUAL NAME in this thread or it will defeat the purpose. As far as i know, he will have KY license plate. No, i was not a victim of anything but somebody i know was.. We do not believe this person had anything to do with this particular incident but because of his dangerous nature, do NOT approach him or anybody else with him! HE HAS A RECORD... police should have no problem responding to such call if you happen to see this type of vehicle scouring around...

ATTENTION TO THOSE WHO BOUGHT METERS- I have been doing some testing to see if i can discover any problems that users may come across and i have so please read below even if you do not think you are effected! USB Meter- This is the meter that runs off of a laptop. IF you are using WinVista or Win7, your readings may be VERY HIGH or it may be uncalibrated. There is a fix in the works right now! If you are victim of this, please PM me so i can send you the fix once it's sent to me. LCD Meter- This is the handheld device that requires no laptop. The noise floor on this device can reach at, over 120 and possibly over 130dbs before it starts to read anything IF AND ONLY IF you are using the 12v adapter WHILE the car is running! The internal power supply was not meant to be ran like this and is accepting interference which will elevate the noise floor considerably! If you are measuring pressure above the noise floor, readouts are pretty much dead on the TL, BUT some variances can cause the calibration to be off 0.1-0.3db! It will not hurt the handheld device if you are using the adapter even at 15.1v(car on) but it may not be completely accurate as stated above. The worst i've seen it go is 0.3db off from TL readout. Solution- either use the adapter with car off or just use 2 AA batteries instead if you need utmost precision. The company is currently looking into it but is doubtful if current models will be fixed unless a new car adapter can fix the issue. Best bet for utmost guaranteed precision is to use batteries.

oh i understand that, it's happened to me too, but the screws used to hold down wire in these blocks are not that small! Plus u have the option of course or fine thread as well...

actually, a flat base is all you need. Aftermarket connectors are made like that and never had a problem. The problem with tapping out a hole for the amp's screw is the hole has to be 100% vertical, better hope u never break the screw off inside the input block, and most importantly- if everything was done right, the screw would pull the block up which would loose partial contact from inside the hole. AND... if the hole isn't drill 1000% perfect, the cylinder may not even be all the way back inside the hole either when a screw is ran down into it... So, it's better to not do that.

i dislike philips. The sole purpose of the reason why these became popular is to get the most current\voltage to the amp as possible. so overkill scenarios only for competition. In competition, you must also torq down the HELL out of screws\bolts to make sure the current transfer is at it's highest point. You can't torq down philips screws like that.. You can with allen heads though. I only prefer High Torq Fine threaded allens with tools. And i dont see the purpose of putting a hole on it for probes.... A probe will read any part of it.. it's conductive.

that is a GREAT score for that class! 3 15s, no more than 340A of fusing to do that.

maybe that's why rob got injured... attack of the companies!

i take it there is no onboard fusing? What would ideal recommended fusing be.. 200A probably? You aren't by any chance making this 18v capable are you?