shizzzon

it doesnt matter. the meter is calibrated to be as accurate as possible to the Termlab. So there.. done, that part is taken care of. If u want it to be calibrated to another meter, get the meter and adjust it yourself. It's not necessary to set anything like that when u get it... such as the Termlab. That interface box is the sole purpose of high prices and confusion for the pc noob. there is nothing complicated with SPL-Lab meters.

well... i tried explaining that earlier that i dont believe the program is wrong.. it just cant account for different environments such as a vehicle to be accurate if u rely on it therefore it shouldnt be relied upon to be accurate for car audio. It's real simple.. i just dont think others see what i'm sayin.

yea i dont have problems with conversions, hehe, that's remedial. I mess with numbers 24\7 so no worries there.

Who HAS already paid- harveywong - USB/LCD Meter davidt487- USB Meter john denver - USB/LCD Meter bwoodroof - USB Meter B-chi - USB/LCD Meter 1loudsvt - USB/LCD Meter bigrank916 - USB/LCD Meter Im hung N Ur Not - USB/LCD Meter

what's hard about it? If i design a box and input the specs of the box, tuning and T/S parameters of a sub in it and the software is way off, how is that my fault?

i'm ending it this comin weekend for sure. Because of the catastrophe, i need to see if it will effect group buy pricing... so i'll get back to everyone about this soon.

plug black probe into COM, other probe into the hole right above COM. From the off position, turn the knob 2 clicks clockwise(to the right) to be on ~V (which is AC) on the 200 setting.

another problem i see with these programs is changing port area doesnt influence the amplitude graph at all. When one graph doesnt change, others won't follow either... Impedance graphs are WAY off. It's too hard to predict impedance rise because even if the box was the exact size and Q as plotted, there are millions of ways to design the same volume box which will alter the impedance rise in an install anyway.

My focus is more towards competition usage. Perhaps daily and competition differ when using modeling software. What i do know is you cannot expect modeling software to accurately tell u things in the competition world. the way how a vehicle loads and how a box is fired can change the tuning very easily and the way how a sub moves. Depending on a daily setup, it can happen as well... Of course competition is more extreme but i have witnessed it plenty of times where a box's specs do not equal what a program like WinISD says it should be doing... even as something as simple as port tuning. Here is another example- A buddy of mine had a box that was 2.1cuft NET with a 12"x9" port 56" long... WinISD says it would be tuned at ~47hz and peak, of course, higher than that... His box peaked at 39hz and his car's resonance peak is at 46hz so not even cabin gain effected this scenario. This was a box used for competition but could easily be used for daily so weird things happen... It's pretty hard to miscalculate port tuning and the software can definitely be way off in the real world comparison. It's not the software's fault... it's because once u drop it in an environment with lots of obstacles and different gains like a vehicle... it's not as accurate.

maybe i should say not get consistent results with the software... I can tell you plenty of setups where the peak note was different than the predicted note, impedance rise was never right, actual amp power wouldnt be right either, etc... Here recently for competition, I've seen the software is impossible to accurately get port tuning right. Example- box tuned to 43hz peaks at 39hz...

nope, subsonic filter is dependent upon an install, not sub in general. I've done setups where the subsonic needed to be set HIGHER than the tuning frequency and i've done setups where NO subsonic was needed at all tuned in the low 30s. You set the subsonic filter by mechanical means using test tones. You don't want the sub bottoming out so don't let it. Set it at the limit you want to. Maybe you want pure quality so u set it to prevent the sub from jumping out of it's xmax rating or u just want plain loud and you would set it to right before it starts bottoming out. Subsonic filter is a preference filter like a low pass filter but is more important than a LPF because it has safety purposes as well. Adjust it by install because going by a rule of thumb can still allow a sub to bottom out or reduce potential out of your install. Also, box modeling programs do NOT work with car audio. Due to how a car is laid out, a program cannot even attempt to accurately tell you anything right... and depending on what you are using it for, even calculating port tuning can be WAY off if competing! Box modeling programs may work a lot better if your setup is installed in an environment with the least obstacles in the music room which means in an environment with the least "room gain" and attractions that can influence how the sound is reproduced. these software programs can't account for things like that and anything that can cause a gain in pressure or a room that resonates at a or certain frequencies or one that is full of obstacles will have acoustical properties that will change what any box modeling software will tell you.

Where at in KY? We got a few people around KY.

can someone PM me porkchops number to me cuz i got a new phone and need to call him before slamology

Uh oh... now we need to start a new thread... "How did u guys find Mark LaFountain" hehe

i know i thought about it.. but at the same time, if the pricing was gonna go up... i didnt want to tell everybody, hey guess what... you need to pay more... Now, i'm still letting this group buy go on and on so the set pricing is the same... I'm doing everything i can to prevent the price from going up.

because the pricing wasnt finalized. That was expected too. The meters are new to being imported in bulk here and I needed a set figure for a finalized quote. Now since me and the company know how we are going to do business, it wont be like this in the future.

in my class it is

If you have really spent a lot of time tuning then i can see it being possible. Metering on the dash gets u a higher score as my sanction requires at the headrest and that's VERY hard to get loud... but some of us still can One thing i did see a bit odd though is the OP says his subs get hot even when just burping... there's something wrong there if that's true. I can burp a single DC Lvl4 rated at 1,000w on 7,000w of power and never get warm at all. Common sense says they aren't seeing that power but i can guarantee it was helluva lot of clipping and that will heat subs up quicker than anything. i'm actually making a test box fired at the mic in hopes to break 150 and higher with a single 15 for testing purposes to learn somethings about something...

I'll probably let it go for another week to week and a half. If there are not enough orders filled by then... then the group buy pricing must increase unfortunately to the lesser quantity. I know that isnt want u want to hear.. that's why i'm waiting for others to get in. I get random requests about purchasing the meters all the time... but without payment, there is no interest.

Group buy is temporarily back open... Many people are refusing to pay by trying to avoid contact with the group buy payment requests. Those of you who I have spoken too are fine but the ones who refuse to respond are assumed to be KICKED from the group buy. So, I will let the group buy continue until several more slots are filled. If you do not know how much the meters cost, refer to page 1 near the bottom. If you have any questions, contact me.

any pressure class in 1. Like AS1, S1, M1.. With 3 8s, you can run a 35A fuse with that amp. I've ran a 3000w slightly attenuated on a 40A, i've witnessed 6,000w ran on an 80A, I've pulled over 1,100A on 320A, etc.... You need an ammeter and proper tuning to get the most out of your amp with a restrictive fuse.

what works in one car may not work in another. What i do is build the largest net volume with the largest possible port area that can fit length wise in the car that will be tuned way below what your car peaks at. then from there, u just test test test by varying port length, net volume and firing direction.

Who HAS already paid- harveywong - USB/LCD Meter davidt487- USB Meter john denver - USB/LCD Meter bwoodroof - USB Meter B-chi - USB/LCD Meter 1loudsvt - USB/LCD Meter bigrank916 - USB/LCD Meter Awaiting 11 payments. Just a side note. Hopefully everybody keeps their accounts up to date... I am shipping everybody's order according to where their paying account currently says they reside at. If your account is wrong, you will need to update it by the time I ship them out and notify me of it!

dont use kinetik or shuriken for burps. What u need is extremely LOW resistance. Xstatic Batcap XS Power Odyssey Any one of those 3 will suit u the best in my knowledge.

maybe we can FINALLY test the brown note