shizzzon

Do NOT do this on high powered amps! I've been told by a manufacturer of car audio equipment that some larger powered amps require a load to set them up, otherwise they can get damaged that way.

while i totally agree... freakin competition rules require them to see everything... if they cant see it.. it's illegal, lol, i'm not joking. I have a relative that's like you all. "If you gonna do it.. do it right." You all, and him, may motivate me enough to do it right the first time. I just gotta get the extras topgun was talkin about.

ok i understand that, sorry for havin u type all that.i wasnt particularly looking for pretty even though i get your drift.i didnt really want to advertise especially in a manner of professionalism.its just something to try, test and use if successful.if i get access to more tools, ill change the appearance of the items.right now,im just focused on makin them first rough i guess u should say

ok, why should the corners be rounded? what benefit is there. nobody i know does this nor purchaases them like this

hey topgun, care to elaborate? all marketed fuse blocks i have are pretty squareand buss bars i've seen are always square.adrian- the user has a solution for preventing itbut the alloy used has excellent prevention of corrosion.they said it would take a few yrs unprotected for it to cause a problem.the alloys i choose all have great preventitive corrosive measures while maintaining high IACS values.some of the stock i ordered earlier is silver plated to maximize the prevention of corrosionn

the corners aren't necessary. the material is uber soft as it is. It seems the softer the material, the more conductive it is, or at least that's how aluminum is. Copper is already a soft material.

yea thats def b stock, lol. u guys are hilarious. I just ordered the material for the fuse block and stock battery bar... and no, it wont be crooked.

this guy has been given me grief over stewey pics all night about this, lol.. I'm not trying to portray this as a business but just as a capability upon request... Now, if something later down the road happened and i got hundreds of requests... well that's different. As of right now, i like to keep it simple and see how testing goes first.

i already know about the corrosive use and all that. fully aware. Those bars in the pic are copper and are unprotected. the user has a bottle of protection he can use on them. I will be building the block out of aluminum. Both the copper alloy that was used to make the bars and the aluminum i will be using has extremely high corrosion resistant properties. I am being told it will take several years without protection for the material to begin a noticeable state of oxidation that would start to degrade performance if not coated. Many people may not even coat theirs due to the time it would take. Others who want to can purchase products for aluminum and copper. i am about to go sleep so i'll be back later tomorrow about this if necessary.

also, there was nothing special with those bars i posted.. they were left over stock for somebody that needed some extra connections.. gimme a week or two for the fuse block to be made.

lol, the bandsaw i will be using was not in my possession when i did those... I had to do those freehand and i mean freehand... in the air and everything, lol. When i do the fuse block, it will be all on a table which is the next thing on the list. Yea crazykenkid, as of right now, i fully understand what you are saying but at this time... the tools to do it have disappeared from my possession so i put it back on the list until i get access to them permanently.

I'm ordering a pretty large stock of materials tomorrow morning so the ideas that are presented here are put to work. there will be pics n prices in a week or two.

i didnt take any.. i was too busy watchin movies in my car, lol. I'll get pics of my build in a week or two... i'm still changin the port around.

ok, here is the first of some bars. these bars are for 2 Deka 9a31s. the batteries are located on each side of the vehicle so no buss bars could be used. he needed extra connections capable to each battery post, power and ground. None of these holes are tapped. It's not necessary to tap them but if you need them tapped, i can tap them. The bottom hole on each bar is for the battery's post terminal. the other 4 holes are for the wire runs. These bars are rated to accept a continuous load of 700A. That should be enough for about 20,000w worth of amps for daily use on average!(average draw taken assumes 33-50% continuous draw of maximum current rating). He has less than 4,000w in the vehicle so this is actually way overkill but he does compete. These particular bars go for $40 per battery shipped (2 flats for power and ground) or $65 for 2 batteries shipped via USPS. Pricing fluctuates with ampacity requirement and it's gets cheaper the more you need which is always good.

it's not noticeable for daily use. If for competition use, then it's likely. Knukonceptz kolossus cable is like 2/0. Stinger makes 3/0 but is very expensive. you can go to weldingsupply.com to get up to 4/0 but you must remember this- welding cable may oxidize because it isn't tinned and will take several years to occur. also, the ampacity chart on their site is NOT for electrical use. It's for arc welding so don't assume their wire is the highest rated wire in the world.

god i hope it isnt anybody i know personally.

YAY!!! Have u tested it before and after the port plug? Even with the plug out, the tuning is still low enough to sound good on music.. it's just louder to the ear and the mic. With the port plug in.. your vehicle will just fall apart, lol.

well, i'm not doing wire inserts on these, these are purely ring terminal only. I personally do not care for wire inserts due to fraying over time. Now, i DO understand what you are saying about the D design. that's actually what i wanted to go with... However, i still am leaving that option open in case i can get that made... All other marketed wire gauge reducers use the square 45 method. I was a bit leary of it too but apparently they work fine. If i can retain the D look, i'll be sure to post it here. I wont discuss pricing until i know they are made properly.

lol, phi's not getting any of this stuff.. only i am for testing for the time being. he's getting other stuff.

these are 99.94% solid copper

ok, here's the pic. If there is anything i can do to make it better let me know! The hole on the side is for the bolt that will hold the ring terminals in place. 1 ring terminal may be used on EACH side of this block for a total of 2 wire runs. This block will be rated to accept a pass flow of 600A which is plenty. Now, this next block is a little more BRUTAL- This next block says, ... 600A continuous isn't enough, lol, we need.... oh... 850A continuous capability! here that one is- the pricing difference in the two isn't that much different believe it or not. I am NOT going to be making both of these... Either one or the other, not both. The price difference is only a $5 increase with going with QUAD wire runs. The debate here is this- The current flow through each one is more than enough.... the question is... which one is in higher demand? Running 4 cables to one input or 2? My vote is keep it at 2 runs... but if somebody thinks otherwise, speak up.

ok man, i got a sketchup coming of the multi wire insert... gimme bout 30 minutes or less and i'll get the idea out there... The cost for these will be lower than the current $66 that others are charging on the other forums... I can speculate that the pricing for these should be under $50 for a pair(power and ground).

yea because some people may already have fuse blocks and just need a big point to connect lots of wire runs too. For instance- let's say someone has installed 20 different LED lighting kits in their car. they have a rear battery in the back. They want to connect all these power runs from their lights to one central location that is wired off of a relay. Well, since there is no 20point block out there.. this would work fine. Let's say someone has 10 amps in their car and all of them are already fused and want to keep them that way but run less wire to their batts, same principle.

Lol, competition is crazy, lol I have decided to build non-fused distro blocks per request so there will be no 1 set design, therefore no pics of those here. Only non-marketed designs will be considered.

got another pic for ya. this is of a buss flat for a stock battery. What this does is connects onto the power or ground post and extends it's connections out so you can get the world connected to it. The following pic is of the ABSOLUTE maximum connection points capable. they will not come this way but just to show how many connections are possible. the side of the bar allows direct connect of factory power cable and factory alternator charging cable. There are more side inserts for other smaller wire if necessary. all posts up top are for 4awg- 1/0 terminals. Larger terminals will be spaced out further.