shizzzon

just do the math man, trust me, it gains volume. Subtract 14" from the width and max the depth out, WALA! If u dont know how to gain match their amps, here's an easy way- Hookup ALL 3 remote gain controllers and keep them plugged in for obvious reasons below- turn the gains on all 3 amps up ALL THE WAY. Keep the gain on the remote controls on all 3 amps all the way DOWN. Now in sync, start by slowly turning up all 3 amp's remote gain knobs on a test tone until they all clip at the same time. that's an easy way for you to gain match them close enough.

well, i'll tell ya one new thing about the build that has nothing to do with the audio. I am having buss bars machined for me. I just gotta cut them to length and drill all my holes for em. These bus bars are gonna be used for my batts and for fuse holders. They are rated at 1,750A continuous so that should be plenty,

i recommend 3 of the smaller ones. easier to sell Anyways, it's not normal to peak that low, something's wrong there. Most suvs peak in the high 40s. Get a sealed box in there and find out what his peak is. It'd be better to find his cabin gain throughout the entire legal metered frequency range because the car's peak isn't the only frequency u can get loud with.

u would want at least 18cuft net to work well.. otherwise, u gonna want to run 12kw or more because the space u have to work in isn't all that big. Besides.. why tune so low? this is for competition, not daily.

well.. from what i've seen on this forum, the IA Warden can handle 7,000w for a good minute that i know of. The Sundown Nightshades are pretty efficient and can handle 3kw fine. Hell, the SA-12s can handle 3,500w for a pair on music guaranteed.. i still got the video of that night, lol.

hmm... subs up port back always tends to be the typical best for suvs. You can run as little as a few inches from the door, doesnt have to be a foot or more back. Also, if u still prefer not to do that, when porting up, make sure it's all the way at the back of the box and pretty f'in wide! You may also wanna attach some pvc to it so u can flare the port. I just did the math on the box size.. it's not large enough for 3 18s to be efficient for competition. However... if u line all the batts down the side, depth-wise, you will gain almost 3 full cuft! I recommend doin that then staggering the subs up top so they fit.

if u plan on running close to 10kw, then i'd prefer you to use at least 350sqin, preferable 400-450sqin of port area.

this is hilarious, lol. I should have bass tomorrow... Gotta take a break right now... I've noticed some problems with my wall and gotta new some repairs tonight before putting the new baffle in but besides that, no biggie. Just got back from Lowes from gettin everything i need to fix the problems and have already moved a lot of things to accommodate the new baffle so i'm pretty close to rewiring the subs back up.

I will give you til Sunday afternoon to get this thing playin! You know i was thinkin.. i got over a month of vacation time. If you can pick a good time for me to come up there, i will to hang out and check out the design. It'll prob be sometime around summer though cuz there's lots of comps around here between now and june.

reason why people go overkill on batts is because they got really good deals on them or they use them for bassrace\driveby. 3 vs 1 batt.. eh... both have their cons and pros, i'd stick with 1 large one. I can't tell u what your voltage drop would be because XS would literally have to provide a chart on how their batts react to loads over a time period to attempt to calculate voltage drop. u shouldnt really worry about that anyways. Xs Power batts are great and will last and perform for years as long as u take care of them too.

guessing here, but the case may not be able to absorb as much heat as it could lying down. Even if thats true, unless u runnin the amp for hours and hours, i still dont see a problem.

yea for burps. when we use them for daily, i recommend 0.6-1.0 cuft per sub MAX and u still might have to raise the subsonic above tuning depending on how its tuned

Here is the American Bass- here is the AQ- The AQ clearly has more transformers inside and lot more caps. Here is the Phoenix Gold version - This amp is just plain terrible in comparison with the rest of the amps and you see that in their power ratings too... Hertz has their own version too but does not live up to others in terms of power\ground inputs.. They claim massive output levels which may be true but apparently not suited for constant use. They only have 2 inputs rather than 3. Their specs are slightly lower than AQs being a max rated output of just under 16,000w. Here is the Ground Zero GZPA 1.10000SPL amp rated to do 11000w @1ohm... still not a clear competitor with AQ- I dont have pics of the other ones.. they are still being developed.

actually, the only way to keep voltage up above battery's rest voltage is to never exceed the alternator's maximum output at any rpm! Once you do, the voltage will be at it's best what the car would be when off for that particular time. Voltage regulator isn't magical.

that should be fine. xs power batts have very low internal resistance so anything the alt cant handle, the batt(s) will take care of it. Put it this way- I only use a single D3100 and a single D5100 to run 4 3500Ds @0.4ohms for burps. The batts were resting at 13.2v. I did 4 quick 1 sec burps of current draw at ~580A then a 1.25sec burp of just over 1100A and STOCK alternator. Batt's rest voltage remained at 12.8v after that. They lost maybe 12% capacity. XS Power batts have crazy high current dispersion.

i'm not trying to bash you or anyone else personally but seriously, all their other amps do what they say. When you read people saying that their other amps do more than rated.. well their amps DO but at higher THD levels. All their amps are rated, including this one, for what they have been tested to do. Look at my 3500d that they dont make anymore. It's rated at 5,000w @18v at 1%THD or 6500w @18v at 10%THD This new amp is rated at 0.2% THD. AQ has never rated that low before and evidently must have a big jump in power with more distortion involved. I'm not biased toward AQ just because i run their amps. I would test any amp with the right amount of tools on hand regardless of the amp. I have not yet been able to test mine the way i want but i'm eagerly waiting too. Previous similar testing i've done with the 3500d and the 2200d show they do minimum rated power ~ 4ohm. It's gonna be hard for someone to test this amp physically due to the cost of it but having experience with 2 of their amps, i have no doubts and AQ's business practices are not to doubt for their amp line. There is a pure reason why I say "cheater amp". You're not gonna believe the crazy wattage difference because that's the purpose! That's what a cheater amp is suppose to be. This is why, again, they rated the amp at crazy low THD level because USACI bases their classes by wattage ratings. why AQ chose to focus on USACI has many curious on that move but believers or non believers... I'm sure test results from competitors will be out sometime in April if not sooner.

oh i'm not discouraging you, i just want a test, the test, whatever test is done to be done right with proof, informative to everyone including me since i've never seen a test of their batts.

well, you better get some proof from them. Go tell them that u have a batt of over 2000 cranking amps.. they're gonna stutter\stumble on that note and request to see this battery. They should know how to test it, but just so u know, CAs are a full 30sec load so dont let them test it for just a few seconds. I dont know what they have but dont let them use a battery tester like autozone has.. a true load tester.

u have access to a load tester to properly test CAs? This i'd like to see

looks like i pissed someone off... get neg rep for opening up about some batteries... Oh well, people will realize eventually that companies who refuse to prove their specs tend to not live up to them as proven in the past with Kinetik.

thats because they publicly rate them at very low thd levelsto keep them rated as cheater amp

some more unknown information... The baffle was cut today completely and would like to add a comment about something useful for those who route their speaker cut outs. I've been using a straight bit for years, carbide straight bit, and while they last for quite a while, they always tend to have resistance and takes forever to cut... well not anymore. Phi on here recommended i try a Carbide Spiral Upcut bit. So i spent the extra $6 for one($20 per bit) and WOW!! What a difference. No resistance feeling at all when cutting. I cut my cut outs in 2 passes for every 3/4" I can cut 14" holes in 2 passes in 15 seconds! VERY FAST! I highly recommend these bits. We are gonna test just standard Spiral Upcut steel bits on MDF and see if the bit itself will prevent the material from burning like steel so easily does with MDF. I will finish modding the baffle tomorrow night then glue n paint it. Saturday is the big day for me... I have to mod the entire wall to get the baffle to fit back into place and touch up some abuse areas in my wall that it has been taking for a while. Hopefully.. i still have time to find out what it does bare with no tuning.

when comparing slots to aeros, each have their own place per design. When designing boxes, I always venture into using a slot port as the primary choice because it's cheaper, adds bracing to the box and if the design works, will actually give off more effective port area than an aero port can in terms of internal volume displacement. One main difference between slot and aeros is that acoustical length of an aero is LOT less than a slot port. If a box is 20" deep, slot port is 5" wide and goes back 15", there's a lot of acoustical length there as the port virtually bends around the corner... With an aero, there is no such. Now, aeros have more effective port area therefore can use shorter port depths but is also depends if u got room for multiple flared ports on the box. When u start needing 200sqin or more... aeros are gonna take up way too much baffle room just to install them.

That cant be cranking amps.... I know it says so on their company site but that's false advertising... it has to be. CA means to output a particular current rating for 30 seconds straight down to 9.6 or 10.6v, cant remember off hand, at 32F. There's no way there biggest battery, which is 120aH and ...2600CAs can do that at ~80lbs and only $300... The XS D3100 is the largest battery they make and it's got 1,360CAs and 5000MAs. What YOU are reading is the MA reading of the battery, they have it wrong or are incorrectly measuring CA specs. I can tell you that while any 12v batt can be used as a starting batt, only some excel at it. Shuriken and Kinetik have outstanding reserve capability but not so hot quick disbursement of power compared to other companies. Xstatic Batcap and XS Power have xtremely high current discharge capabilities and are superior to starting vehicles. Xstatic batcaps may be better at starting a vehicle, but XS Power batts have longer, LOT LONGER reserve capacity than Batcaps do as Batcaps are primarily focused on quick discharge only and that's not only what u need in a starting battery... For daily use and as a starting battery, XS Power all the way, or a strong enough Shuriken\Kinetik is fine too. They business practices should be slaughtered for stating that on their site. typically, the higher the CA or MA, the more a battery cost. I can get 100aH batts for under $100 but they are terrible for really high MAs... You get another 100aH batt with very high MA rating, the price sky-rockets.

the competitors even is on saturday and sunday. I might be at the show friday to prove my standings as the loudest in my city. The cost is unknown to me for that.