shizzzon

As of right now, i am still on schedule for the Carl Casper show! Still crossing my fingers that i dont fall behind and miss it... I just busted the baffle out of the car today! That was fun. Sanded down all around it in preparation for the new baffle. I got a lot of vacuuming to do and cleanin up the subs but all i need to do now is go get me 1 sheet of mdf to rebuild this wall. I'll be dropping from 4 to 3 subs and some mighty fine tuning will be needed next week hopefully. I'm gonna be trying something new that has sparked some interest of mine for a while and never had the chance to test it... This new wall design will be tunable from 100hz all the way down to 35hz using 2x4s to change tuning... It's pretty neat. Anyways, I am also going to have to rip most of the false floor out of the hatch i made and rebuild it specifically for Carl Casper because they need to see all my wires so they know i'm not cheating. I HAVE to have this done by this coming weekend... I will have an "unknown" amount of power on tap.... I'm keeping this secret right now. I fixed my termlab mic the other day so i have something to record with so hopefully i get louder... Current score this season is 153.4db. I am hoping for a minimum of a 155 at Casper... if not more...

if you're not really gonna limit the type of vehicle, i'd do this- Decide on how much power you plan on running and how many alts u want. Find a vehicle that can accept such an overhaul of an install especially if it's 2 or more alts required. Scion tCs are easy to take apart and modify which is a plus for me since i own one. Actually the entire Scion line is like that. PS - Scion isn't effected by Toyota's recall either, hehe. CRXs are a big car for car audio but... are small too. extended cab trucks are also loud too. If you can handle the price and are a big player in the car audio field, a Suburban can be had but isn't cheap. If these aren't enough options, just start window shopping online. If you want a no-wall setup, start finding vehicles that have acoustical advantages inside. Like you said, hatchback's are a great example of such.

well since this is in the audio section, i'm assuming this is for audio purposes.... I've been told by 2 different world finalists that 4door suvs are louder than 2door. Dont' ask me why, that's just their experience. I've also been told that Explorers tend to be about the best suv to get when tryin to get loud.

if u have 2 amps that are not made to be strapped, you can purchase a Maxxlink and let it do it for you. Basically from what i've seen, the Maxxlink controls the signal processing to allow amps to be strapped just like any other strappable amp. The speaker wire combination remains the same, just the rcas are processed through the Maxxlink. I suggest reading the manual to the Maxxlink so you can understand. Read it again if u have to until u understand it. If you want to strap 2 amps that are dual channel Class D amps, the speaker wire configuration must be configured into a single output per amp before strapping... What does that mean? When strapping, you connect all - terminals from both amps together... Usually, the master amp handles the + connection and slave amp handles the - connection. So a dual channel class d amp, you need to bridge BOTH amps making them single output per amp. Then run single negative wire connection to\from both amps, leaving one + on each amp, one for + and the other(slave amp) for -. Just remember this- For every pair of amps that get strapped, the minimum recommended wire load doubles. So, for example- 1 ohm stable per amp = 2ohm strapped. 2 ohm stable per amp = 4ohm strapped. 4 ohm stable per amp = 8ohm strapped.

I dont do recones but i can say if you don't get the help you are looking for, contact Team PSI and see what they can do. That's all they do is recones and now are starting to manufacture 100% custom subs from scratch.

Well, since he went there i guess i gotta say this- You got some hairy legs, Lisa

they are rolled to prevent creases. Same principle about rolling maps.

that's the thing about thieves.... They know nothing about car audio. I've talked to buddies of mine before about stuff like this. You don't ever want a thief break into your car that has lots of knowledge of car audio... he'll steal what means or costs the most... Typical thief will steal electronics because it's common knowledge that's the most expensive. However, a smart owner will have those products insured. So what can hurt an owner due to vandalism or theft or what can criminals get the most money from or at least a guaranteed sale? I'm gonna speak from a thief standpoint so don't think i'm on their side, lol, because i've had my house and car broken into before and will kill easily if i had to were they in the house with me. There's a good and bad thing about lots of the following so lets go through them- Window tint- It may be good to have to prevent others from seeing inside.. but it also is telling others-"Hey, i need privacy because i have or do something in here that i dont want u to know about!" Also, when a window is busted with tint on it... it's not as loud and will not create attention either so it's possible for thieves to bust tinted windows in the daylight without drawing any attention at all. I suggest having the THICKEST bulletproof\breakproof laminate sheeting installed on glass that can still allow windows to roll down properly. The most expensive things in a vehicle for car audio are the follows- Battery(ies), Alternator, amp(s), and wire is starting to become $$$. Sometimes subs and head unit are expensive but not always. It's hard to steal an alt, lol, but batteries aren't if they are mobile... They need to be extra secured. Amps are easy to steal if not secured and would be a primary target. If i were a thief, i would never try to take a head unit due to the sophistication of how they are installed in different vehicles... Vandalism hurts worse than theft and lots of thieves will just damage product that cannot be stolen. Bulletproof\breakproof glass can help prevent interior vandalism. Wire would be great to steal.. but if it's ran under things and through things, that's not likely. Subs in a box better be bolted down to the car! Flush mount subs to box so a crowbar cannot be used to pry them out of the box in seconds. Smart thieves wont steal the box if it's more than 1 sub or notice it's a pretty good size box and know that the box is pretty damn heavy. So, make sure amps, batteries and sub box are extra secured to the vehicle so no quick access can remove them even in a destructive pattern. When using a car alarm, make sure you have more than 1 external siren AND have at least 1 external siren installed INSIDE the vehicle. If they have the time to break through breakproof glass, the piercing of a siren exceeding 130db will make them cringe... i guarantee it. There's no way to prevent external vandalism but there are ways to prevent interior theft within a certain timeframe.

Nope, Hyperdynamics mic. www.makeitlouder.com go to ebay to purchase it as it's usually lot more at their website. You can find it for less than $100 on ebay. Also, u will need a meter that can read millivolts and a computer and that's it.

You don't need to build subwoofers for a living to understand that they recommend you tune high because the driver's Fs is ri-pucking-diculously high. I have some 7" mids here that have an Fs only 2hz higher than the Fs of the 12" HDC3. You're 7" mids are midbass drivers. (and a Fs of 43hz on a 12" inch driver isn't super high, and the 10 inch has a Fs of 41hz.) And remember the T/S specs aren't averaged between a few woofers, they took 1 woofer and took the T/S parameters without a break-in period.(Break in period lowers Fs quite a bit in a few cases.) AQ drivers are designed to work the best with higher tuned boxes which don't need as much space. Because they are tuned higher then normal they need to have a suspension that is harder and not a soft suspension. That how they get a high Fs, low moving mass and strong suspension that controls the cone if it goes below tuning. You can tune a woofer below Fs without a lot of problems, but if you don't stick with optimal enclosure volume and tuning they are going to sound like shit. Because the manufacture gives quite a lot of optoins you can build it how you like it. BTW, they have a SQ competitor: Competitor Highlight – Sound Quality Competitor LewisBrood Name: Lewis Brood, Competitor 2005 Kia Sorento lx SUBs: AQHDC312 x 2 woofers- 2-aq hdc3 ,12 inch duel 2ohm wiring by – tsunami and knukonceptz 2007 team northeast competitor of the year 2007 team northeast 3rd place woofercooker 2 2007 iasca Finals, stock 2 champ 2007 iasca Finals, 3rd place rookie- sound quality 2008 team northeast 3rd place woofercooker 1 pro 151 db is my best record so far to date with a lot more to come !!!!!! Lewis has never placed less than 3rd in over 20 sound quality competitions! Yep, they are taken before the sub is broken in. The new Sundown Zv2 has a FS of 42hz.. I guess this sub vs the original one of an FS of 28hz is gonna sound like total crap.... I highly doubt that. Back in 2005, i had a 15" HD3 in an 8cuft box tuned to 29hz. I dont recommend doin that because anything in the mid 40s and up rolled off too quick. Anyways, the sub could drop down to about 19hz before it would start bottoming out and it sounded awesome on the lows.

aq recommends the following on average- 1.5cuft per 10 2.0-2.5cuft per 12 4.0cuft per 15 6.0cuft per 18 All tuned around 38hz. I've given my opinion about them in the review section. These subs can take massive amounts of power and people who like that really are not looking for the best of sounds because the typical sound pressure levels many are aiming towards these days are the high 140s and when getting that high, your ears have a hard time distinguishing difference in install comparison and just perceive it as loud and louder...

i was unaware you actually heard them in person before. Mine and others opinion must be very different than yours is then. I was just curious.

yea bring plenty of fuses with ya, u got over 30 left just for the show.

i've seen your opinion expressed about their subs plenty of times and am curious as to what triggers your opinion?

i can tell ya that my 4 80A mini-anls held just a hair over 1,100A for ~1-1.5seconds. The TL already got my score in plenty time before the fuses popped! I was surprised the fuses last that long. Knukonceptz and Audiopipe mini-ANLs share the same threshold as what it appears.

well, if it's rated like the American Bass amp, then it requires an 800A combined fuse setup. all i gotta say is u better hope these big amps never get damaged outside of warranty service...

you know what... i have no idea.... This information was handed down to me from the company itself. IF it seems possible that the xmech value has nothing to do with the higher tuning preference, then someone who builds subwoofers could probably explain why their subs work best tuned so high. This is what i do know personally- Whatever these subs are tuned at will be capable of dropping MUCH lower than other subs that most people are used to. What i am implying is many people expect to set their subsonic filter just below tuning... that's now how there subs work. It takes a lot to unload one of these subs. They are not competition speakers, just very brutal street beater subs. They have one of the stiffest suspensions i have ever seen and any owner of one would say the same thing. It takes weeks and weeks and weeks before they start to loosen up. "Maybe" that's why they can be tuned so high... their tight suspension prevents them from bottoming out... However, even if that's true, why does the low end NOT lack even when tuned so high? Audioque would have the answer... apparently i dont.

team innovative..theres a lot o them here too...

im gonna have to get intouch with u at the show. i fribe blue scion tc with graphics everywhere

no cuz they have to expand just to read them then their dead.... U had that joke coming....

Sorry to say but you were tuned WAY too low for an HDC3 which is probably why it didnt sound to good. 35hz is the lowest recommended tuning to drop very low for music. I tuned mine back when i had a pair of 12s to 38hz and could drop it down to 24hz off of 4,500w of power and still not bottom out. That's how i set the subsonic filter. 38hz is the optimal tuning for their subs due to their long throw capability. They will roll off right in the most common frequency range for most rap n rock which is in the 40-50hz range when tuning too low.

hmm.. u should gain about 1.5db from droppin that low. what u runnin in m2?

lumbar yards are NOT cheaper to get mdf compared to Lowes. I tried that trick long time ago. Reason being it that Lowes buys SO MUCH of it compared to a lumber yard that they can pass the savings onto us. Lowes is everywhere. There's a lot more Lowes then there are lumber yards with the same name.

150s are easy to get. I have several world finalists that tune with me every now and then locally and some of the designs i do have pure potential of reaching that high. The only bad thing though is it's best for the user to have plenty of tuning knowledge as i can only do comp designs for those who know how to tune off of them with trial and error. I'm workin on new designs right now to get louder. I did a 153.4 at the last show with port loading in the center of the car and less than 150sqin of port. After increasing port area by a ..... hush hush amount ... and replacing port in the proper loading area... well, we'll see what happens during testing... I currently have access to over 20,000w of power sitting here next to me.

Ha, that doesnt mean anything... Carl Casper is The Largest Car Show in North America. Carl Casper is also one of the largest MECA events every year. Because of this, competitors come out of hiding and bring the noise out of nowhere... Be extra prepared... There is always a crazy ass in every division.