shizzzon

as long as both negative and positive coils on the sub are wired together, single run from + and - to the amp is all that is needed. If you want to make it less stressful splicing everything, u can do this- Take 2 single wires, one for positive and one for negative. Make them long enough just to reach each coil and strip the ends off of each of course too. Once you have done this, take a knife or some wire strippers and put it directly on the middle of each wire. Slit a gap in the cover and spread the cover back about 1\4-1\2" Now all you gotta do is run a wire from the amp to the slit section of the wire, no bounds of spliced wire required and no fraying! You can get some T connectors if you want and cut the wire off and crimp into these connectors.

in my personal opinion, i never like to drop below 12.5v even at idle! If i drop below that, either turn it down or get more battery. However, i would advise to never drop below 12v because it will put a strain on the alternator trying to keep everything charged.

do some research on those ap amps. They are being used everywhere, plenty of reviews about them. One of my local friends even has one and even i love it and don't own it, lol.

if interested, there is a decent sized competition in Lebanon, TN next sunday, 1-31-10. If u want to go, i'll be there. We all can help get louder than u will be without going. If you plan on competing in MECA, u can talk to the guys there about it. Bring about $65 with you if u plan on it, otherwise u need about $35.

no, sundown does around 1600w@1ohm and the ap does hair over 2000w @4ohm U can wire to both of those configurations. Do not choose based on power alone because u will not hear the difference.

well, power wise, they will put out about the same power. I'm just sayin that at 4 ohm, the audiopipe amp is gonna be less stressful on electrical system. It may only be 1-5% more efficient but every little bit helps.

yea but running the audiopipe @4ohm is gonna be pretty efficient. I've metered one of those amps before and was gettin just a little over 1240w @7.2ohms and a little over 1450w @6.3ohms. I'd love to have gotten the load down around 4 but didnt have time.

anybody know any 2 or 4 channel amps that are 18v capable?

so that means the charge from the alternator wasn't getting through, correct? It sounded like the battery was at fault. Do not let your alternator try and charge discharger batts if they are too low or you'll be buying a new alt soon.

well, sealing off when firing forward may not even be noticeably louder to the ear believe it or not. When firing forward, the upper notes like the high 40s to lower 60s are typically what sounds louder. I do not know if they actually are though... I know that when firing forward, it's not uncommon for that range to be the loudest. Speculation is hard to do in car audio when it comes to deciding what's louder without testing. Luckily for those who don't compete, the ear is the cheapest tool to use.

lol, if u are serious about competing then test it, otherwise you will never hear a difference.

first off, if u really do have an isolator back there, get rid of it. Isolators will drop voltage in the output right off the bat so that's part of the problem. If u need isolation, get a solenoid instead. Second, are all your batteries even fully charged cuz it doesnt sound like it. Put them on a load tester, reading their rest levels means nothing.

everything back. If running less subs, i would say try side firing but u'd be lucky to have enough room to fit all 4 of them in there. A little tip i've learned from amateur street classes in competition- The less cone area you use, the louder you will be.. Hard to believe but very true. Only in the highest of amateur classes do experienced users may try 2 subs, but never anymore. Typically it's single sub all the way. For continuous use, i'd say 2 small drivers would be best.

they very legit and are authorized to sell quite a few brands as well.

if u have a meter u can test it but i doubt it would help unless sealed which i doubt u want to do anyway. The trunk allows the box to act somewhat like a bandpass design, the trunk is a loading area therefore it should typically be louder firing toward the rear. However... using the trunk as a loading area can only get you so loud before you must turn it around. This only happens when the box needs to be very large or are running more power than the space around the box can handle without inducing turbulence more and more. A very serious competitor should only see this restrictions.

the volume behind the box where the cargo enters the cabin area, you have plenty of space there so u are fine. What i WOULD do though is pull the box out and flip it over so the port is on the other side. You always want the port on the opposite side of the car that you are sitting if you are not competing. This allows the pressure to load better on the driver side. High pressure levels like to move to low pressure areas.

hey, u cant post a status update on the main forum page like that without showing us... WHY it's incredible, ... ... ... Or you usin headphones again?

from what we've debated here before in past threads, line drivers are pointless, probably another hype product to buy for no reason. Increasing input voltage will require less gain on the amp, less input voltage will require more gain on the amp. With line drivers being no good, i guess that's why 12v quarterbacks and short receivers never made it to car audio

don't you have the manual? Let me tell you how to do this- NOTE BEFORE CONTINUING- When strapping amps, they rely on each other. If in some scenario one amp goes into protect while the other one does not, it's possible to kill both amps. I've had my own experience in that and it isn't fun. This happened due to a shipping damage internally and there's no way to know if the output section is damaged until you strap them. Once it is strapped, if the output is XTREMELY low, shut it off immediately to prevent damage! Now, onto strapping- Take one amp, set it's switch to MASTER Take the other amp, set it's switch to SLAVE. Now, get your MASTER amp and follow- Run the rcas from head unit to this amp. Take a single rca line and run it from MASTER to SLAVE Now FOLLOW THIS VERY CAREFULLY- Take speaker wire and run it from BOTH negative terminals from the MASTER amp and connect them to the negative terminals on the SLAVE amp. So now u got all negative terminals on both amps connected to each other. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT- The MASTER amp is the Positive terminal amp. The SLAVE amp is the Negative terminal amp. Connect ALL positive leads to the positive terminals on the MASTER amp. Connect ALL negative leads to the positive terminals on the SLAVE amp. Please remember- When strapping amps that are individually 1 ohm stable, you can only connect a coil configuration of no less than 2 ohms nominal to the pair.

while the latter has been discussed, how about shedding some light on too much voltage. It's been know to fry the input section on amps(or at least that's the excuses i've heard) from too much voltage in on the signal. Some of these cheaper amps may have a max input level of only 4v, some even LESS! So what happens when a user hooks up one of these amps to an 8 or 9v preout and cranks his gain on the amp thinkin it's a volume knob? I'm pretty sure sustained use of that will kill the input section. Same scenario as people using 13v line drivers and crankin them things way up and the gain on the amps as well when there's no way it can handle that input. I'm sure it's somewhat hard to do, to kill an amp by doin that, just don't know how long it would take. Of course, hopefully someone should tell by ear that something doesnt sound right since the output sound would sound insanely horrible.

Go big or go home. Shouldnt be jammin at a red light in the first place.

I didn't.... the pulley on it was too large for my car, therefore the idle rating was 2x as high as real world testing... Also, the Bridge Rectifier inside mine wasn't efficient enough because it lost 54A on a stress test i did one time... Due to the Rectifier alone... well.. let's just say, you all will know in March. I hate low efficiency and i prefer to only use high efficiency with self-protect regulators. In a hobby like this, it's not worth the risk to lose an alt that can get abused.

lol, they don't know me by screenname but i am still loyal. No public leaks until release date...

^^^^ Who is it Herbert from Family guy? also OP, pm me for some DC power info as it can't be publicly posted yet.

This is interesting because my buddy Phi on here seen a Deka truck too in Louisville, KY. PS- Our group buy supplier is in Florida, Maybe that's why u see them in Florida cuz we about to order a LARGE bank load of them soon.