shizzzon

lol, it is awesome using monitors at that angle but i cant do that with mine. I use dual 22s from ASUS and i tend to watch HD movies on one while i work on the other so i gotta keep one at least in normal widescreen mode. Since i do lots of video editing on the side.. i'll never see that setup for myself but it is awesome for a web designer. The funny thing is, those who use multi monitors efficiently, once you get used to them, you can't do without them and tend to think of reasons why u may need another one... and another one.. and another one, lol.

there is no stock tweeter in your door? IF there isn't.. then you are going to be placing your tweeter completely behind your door panel... Might as well wear ear muffs when you turn on your stereo.... Seriously, you are going to have to modify your door panel if you want to mount your tweeter behind it if there is no stock location.

why not just get a router and route you out a baffle ring out of wood? You would get a drawing of your mounting holes that hold the stock speaker in there and draw that out on the wood then draw the cut out of the speaker itself in the center. The screw holes that would normally hold the stock speaker would now hold this baffle ring which if using 3\4" mdf will save you 3\4" of mounting depth. Then you just use some 3\4" screws and screw the new speaker into the mounting ring and TADA!

Thermalright TRUE Black 120 Rev.C CPU Cooler There is some things there that you do add to the list so it will be around $100 after everything. IF you do not have any, Artic Silver 5 paste is highly suggested for thermal compound. I can walk you through it if and when u decide to do it and see if u want too.

I work in a warehouse where i control the distribution of food and other products to 30 different stores within our region. I also am i forklift operator I also diagnose, repair and build computers I also diagnose and do work on video game systems. I also am a Beta Tester for a non-disclosed company. You guys already know i design boxes on the side as well. I also do lots of video and audio editing. Video mostly for lots of custom jobs.

ask powermaster for link(s) to tests done with multiple agm batts including comparisons with kinetik, xs power and more. To put it short, based upon tests and how kinetik bases their recommendations for which of their batts to use for a given power application... I come to the conclusion that Kinetik batts must have a higher internal resistance than xs. Why do i think that? Well, testing aside, just look at Kinetik specs vs xs power specs. The HC2400 is only rated for systems of 2,400w even though it has almost 130aH capacity, has a Max amp rating of 2600A and weighs less than 69lbs... The D3100 is rated for systems up to 5,000w, has 110aH(new version, old version had 117aH), has a max amp rating of 3,600A(new version has 5,000MA!!!) and weighs 77lbs. Interesting how Kinetik has higher ratings but weigh less.. Not all batts weigh exactly the same but it seems fishy to weigh less without promoting that in the powercell features meaning... it weighs less for a reason... It's also true that Kinetik's rest level is slightly lower than XS batts. My XS batts will rest at 13.0v when charged via alternator and 13.2v when charged via battery charger. The Kinetik's i've personally seen rest off alternator at 12.8-12.9v and 13.0v via battery charger. Lower rest levels, higher internal resistance(obvious when u see max amp comparison) and less weight = not the greatest when used for high current quick discharge for competition. Kinetik's batts appear to be good for logn term use and lack the best capability of quick discharging as well as other batts.... Such as XS Power and XStatic Battcaps. Having said Kinetik is probably better for long term use, i still prefer XS when the prices of like batts from these 2 companies are similar. I'll go with a higher rest level anyday. Now, if you were goin Deka... That's a whole other story. Deka is the way to go money-wise. You can get 2 9a31s for the price of one D3100. Yes, Deka's rest lower, approx 12.8-12.9v but 2 of their group 31s can do 2,000CAs which will completely kill one D3100 or HC2400 anyway.

1-23-10 - 124 Century 21 Drive Suite 7 Jacksonville, FL - Starts at noon 1-31-10 - Thunder Electronics, 8030 NW 103rd St Hialeah, FL - Starts at 11am

yes for 2 reaasons.1- amps current draw average is usually 40-60% of its fuse rating2- because of no. 1, an alt arpund 250a or more can handle that load.i run 2 3500s and a 100.4 which is 690a of fusei have a 250a alt and 177ah of xs battsi never have charging problems and batts always read 91% charge or higher

no, that's overkill. When you have a high output alt, that's overkill. I would recommend a single d3100 just for the 3500d but since the 100.4 is also in play, i'd look at getting about 150aH worth of batt from XS Power. If going with Kinetik, i'd look at gettin around 200aH.

seriously, i would do what Impious is saying. The way you are wanting us to answer is gonna cause you to possibly go overkill for no reason. It's not like if your stock electrical isn't strong enough, it's gonna fail in days. Good visual aid is if your lights are dimming on every bass note at the volume level u like to jam at, you need to upgrade or turn it down which i doubt that will happen. First thing to do is add an additional battery. this will react faster to current demands than an alt will. However, you must keep an eye on the charging conditions and periodically check battery levels to ensure they are staying charged. Without the use of a h.o. alt and a second battery in the mix, never let your lights dim! If lights start to dim with 2 batts and stock alt, then that's double work the alt may need to do in the near future to charge back up if it's consistent. Plenty of people run stock alts on systems higher than 10,000w but they do so in quick sessions(less than 1 minute) and use battery chargers afterwords or they run it without dropping voltage to their batts consistently which means they keep the average volume level low.

oh i know about it, i wasnt thinkin about 6db, it would be either 12 or 18db crossed and i wouldnt even cross that low. I was just wayin that's how they are rated so crossing a lot higher just gives a better feeling about they can still handle the power fine. Here is the link- Parts-Express.com:

Quicktifier There is one user on here that uses this and i have searched and found no comparison to the before and after results of this device installed on a vehicle. Basically, it's main purpose is to make your alternator more efficient under load or stress. When the alt is getting hot, this will help to prevent loss of output as much. Whereas i've also been trying to find direct results of alt failure, #1 being directed to heat which in turn #1 part to fail is the Bridge rectifier. So... this is where i'm at right now. Time + Current = heat you can run hundreds or even thousands of amps for a couple seconds off a stock alternator as long as it doesnt heat up so fast it dies which is unlikely. So... when using an alternator for long durations under a load, let's say not max output but 75% of it's rating for long periods of time... it's gonna continuously get hotter and hotter. This Quicktifier device is suppose to relieve the load off the internal bridge so it can do the majority of the work. It's cooled as well. So my question is this- by abusing an alternator in terms of making it work under heavy loads for long durations, does it sound like this Quicktifier system would relieve that stress by reducing heat buildup from within the alternator? The company says it should only be used on an alternator that is already of proper ampacity but if the current alternator isn't and the user knows it... would this device prolong or possibly prevent alt failure due to heat? I'm not tryin to say that someone is intentionally gonna use this in place of a higher output alternator when needed, but when using an alternator under HEAVY loads for no more than a minute or so and then manually charge a battery bank back up... wouldn't this device allow the alt to be more durable under possible stress from short term use? I know i said long term use before but am still curious about that usage as well. I've never seen anyone talk about this device before anywhere and want some people's opinions on it.

the tweeters i was looking at are made by Morel. They are rated for 200wrms 8ohms and can be HP'ed as low as 1.6khz. That's plenty capability as the amp i have probably can only do, if that, 200w@8ohms.

i've been waitin patiently.... for months, lol for this build. It's one of the largest designs i've done for somebody and i want to see it come to life. 3d modeling pictures aren't as good as the real thing!

if you are asking wiring configs for 1 sub per amp, then dual 2s will be wired to 1 ohm which can read anywhere between - 0.65-0.9ohms

... check with dc power or DC Power or Rob, Dave or Kyle.. Depending on how you use your equipment will depend on how many batts you need. High output alternator may also not be necessary either in regards to what i just said. Tell us exactly how you plan on using this equipment so i can answer your question.

Shoot, hook me up with 55% off! We are not shipping these out. We are getting a very large group buy from many competitors locally then we gonna get some of our surburban competitors to drive several hundred miles out of state to go pick em all up and bring em back. Air Ride and surburban weight suspension for the win. Everybody that usually comes to our meetups is gettin em for under $100 a batt so some of these guys are loadin up! We got one guy gettin 14 of em.

my local autozone has 2 different load testers, might wanna try them

how dare you too, lol. My local team is supportin the hell out of deka right now because they are gettin them 55% off... I'm still stickin with xs though... ONLY because i'm bout to switch to 16v

Kinetik? How dare you not support our local subforumer XS Power

i bet thats what it is adrian d. i didnt like the sound of using it as a starting batt in the first place. any little problem is gonna make it that much harder to start.i dont think u can accurately test a batt for possible problems in that cold..cant u just charge it up at autozone then take it back and let it sit inyour house for a couple hrs then check voltage level.

i say cut in half, it's not THAT severe but it might... I dont see companies rate batteries below 0F so one can only speculate how much more you lose. In terms of capacity, yes, going below freezing does decrease battery capacity. Some charts i've seen before, going just above 100F increases battery rated specs by only 1-2%, not measurable nor noticeable unless you have 400 batteries in the back, lol. It's just simply, it's xtremely cold and that's what's happening, the capacity is less and the cranking amps are LOW.

the colder the environment is, the less capacity AND less cranking amps it can support. at 20 below, your aH rating is probably about cut in half! CCAs are rated at 0 and are usually about ~60-70% of the CA rating. So if a battery can discharge 1000A at 32F but only 600-700A at 0F look at how much current is being lost. That HC800 is not a large battery at all. I'm surprised at it's capability really because once it starts the car, alt's gotta charge that baby back up for a few minutes since a decent portion of it's capacity has been drained. coming from this weather, it's not surprising. Do NOT let it die though! You cannot charge a dead battery in that type of climate so if it's getting low and you are not allowing enough time for the alt to recharge it, get an AGM battery charger.

i would show my desktop but i cant, it's animated. It's underwater with fish swimming around.

you have to do more than just hit it. Press the button, then open up paint. Once open, hold control and press v or just go to edit and hit paste.