shizzzon

define clean Who are you Bill Clinton? lol My definition is simple, no audible distortion while keeping the level high enough to hear what song I am listening to regardless of how loud the bass is. It takes lots of money to get a front stage to output in the same ratio as a stock setup(highs:lows) when using subs that can easily break 145db+ I personally do not like the ratio i guess because i've been around the competition scene for so long, i'm more of a bass guy. I still got to be able to hear what i'm listening to though or that's retarded, lol.

i did? I don't even remember, lol. But when u r ready, u can be sure i'll be around to help out. And to those reading this waiting for a reply back from me about boxes.. it's coming soon...

While JL focuses on quality primarily, the W7s could get plenty loud, they are some pretty efficient drivers just overpriced.

... and what happened to that setup?

Actually, people like me compete. For those who are running close to 10kw and more and are just doin that for daily driving only is crazy stupid because their hearing will be gone in no time. I can only keep my setup up for a few seconds before i have to turn it back down. People complain of the inability to inhale through their nose, no swallow capability, unable to maintain focus on a fixed point, pressure headaches, etc... I don't think that's good for daily driving so i don't play it at that level on music when i'm in the car.

i'm not sayin 2 12s in a wall can't easily break the 50s, but u need to do WAY louder than a 50 to start flexin the windshield on a newer car. I'd try to reach the mid 50s minimum below 40hz to try and get that sucker movin. I just don't see that happenin with 2 12s for daily driving.

unfortunately, you must have no experience with sound deadening. come back and read this again once u drop close to a $1,000 on sound deadening and then tell me how your ride sounds sealed up on the outside. When my windows are down, i am in 2nd place so far in my division for having the loudest vehicle that can play music for 30sec outside the vehicle. I'd say the deadening is working when i'm sealed up.

because we use sound deadening.. or at least i do... i don't know bout the other several thousand members on here. For those who have heard my setup in person, if i seal my car up.. i can blast it(with ear plugs in) and won't bother anybody around me.

if u want windshield flexing.. then ur goal has already failed. You will need a wall and more than 2 12s. What u need is a low tuning and TONS of pressure.

it's really simple... If u need 50hz, i got a link to JUST the 50hz tone. If you need tone(s), you need to download the ENTIRE compilation of sine wave parts, not just a single part. Extract the archive once all parts have been downloaded. Do not use WMP if it wont work, use something else. I have never had anyone complain about the capability of these tones or the way to burn them. Sorry to say, but it's user error.

At one time i ordered 2 of these amps when they were only a couple months into production and one came in defective from shipping damage unknown to me and fried both amps on the spot when strapped. Covered under warranty and after weeks of diagnosing until the problem was finally found, they have been working ever since. I eventually sold them both and have never had complaints and been in use for over 2yrs now.

what? sound quality regardless of how good or bad it is to the ear shouldnt be measured by how loud it can get. There was a guy i at the last show i was at that competes only in the SQ division and he told me that they use 2-3 different cds that everybody must play and multiple judges score your setup by their own ear. Different judges have different tastes but one thing that he did point out was that the tracks that are played will score you higher the less bass that is put out! I am assuming that these tracks he is referring to must have higher notes in the sub range because it wouldnt make any sense if that isn't true. He said SQ judges pretty much hate audible bass so i am assuming that's based upon the tracks being played. The measure of pressure is irrelovant in what makes someone suggest one's install sounds better than another. Now, i am no SQ guy, i just like it clean and deafening. Maybe that's the word peopel should be using, not sound quality, but CLEAN. People need to start using this term when requesting "SQL" in the future- CnL = Clean n Loud. I might have just started somethin

that's funny how u say u wanna do spl.... Setup right, those BTLs should be able to handle a 4kw amp per sub. Now for spl, for serious spl, i'd be lookin at tryin to put a MINIMUM of 2 of those amps per sub but again, u gotta know how to control mechanical movement and monitor thermal handling. I want to run 7kw to a single Dc level4 but i don't think my plans will allow me too... Those subs are only rated for 1kw but i know they should be able to handle it if i ever did.

you see.. that's what happens when people don't listen to me when i tell them how to build boxes... he tried to take a shortcut and that's how it turned out... There was suppose to be 3 subs in that IB...

the icon requires lesss for sure. 1500w and less for the AQ for good sounding bass, up to 2400w if u want brutal bass

if u can actually build those dimensions out fo cardboard without it hitting anything.. then YES! u have plenty of room!

I built this pc last night and am still tweaking it now and probably the next couple days but WOW, this pc is killer for the money! I built this pc for my mom as she was using a single core P4 2.66 @533FSB with DDR2400 memory 768mb worth. Her pc never ran out of memory.. she was just complaining it wasnt fast enough. After cleanin out the registry, defragging, removing startup programs and disabling more services... it wasn't software related... she just needs a new system. I did my research into overclocking these new AMD Phenom II systems because i've been doin many OC Intels but no AMDs. Having plenty of OC knowledge from Intel, i still was lost on some newer terminology on the AMDs but after about 8hrs of messin around with the board... it is amazing! This build is UNDER $400! (you must have tower, all drives, monitor, etc...) PSU - Thermaltake 500w Mobo- ASUS M4A785-M (I've always been loyal to Asus and their boards are ++ when it comes to precise OC-ing) CPU - AMD Phenom II X2 550 Calisto Black Edition 3.1GHz RAM - 2x2GB Gskill DDR2-1066(the blue colored heat spreaders) Ironically this memory isn't suppose to be a great OC'er but there is a secret to this memory that i have experienced. When running this memory in the 900-1000mhz range rather than it's rated 1066, you get slightly higher read speeds and the write speeds almost DOUBLE! Plus because of the lower speed, the timings and voltage and also be tightened for an even faster benchmark! I haven't fully set the ram up yet. Cooling system- (you gonna love this!) - STOCK COOLER. No Case fans in use! I wanted this to be very comparable to anyone else wanting to design something like this for themself so they may be able to get similar expectations. For specific model numbers to parts, pm me. Using stock NB heatsink, stock cpu fan and thermal paste, idle temps at OC level is 23C! NB is 42C Do NOT go out online and research how to do this for this particular setup and then try and compare the settings i've used because you will get very conflicting answers with what i use. Most OC-ing guides will tell u to disable all fan and underclock settings.. I understand why but i also like to leave as many turned on as possible as a 24\7 overclock with max fan speeds isn't necessary. C1E is disabled on this board by default. I did leave Cool n Quiet enabled. ACC is NOT turned on! Doing so will void warranty and is NOT recommended anyway when using stock cooler. The speed increase without using ACC is PLENTY, trust me. OC settings as of right now- Reference clock - 230MHz CPU Multiplier - 15.5x (anything over ~3.65ghz required a Vcore of over 1.35v which is ridiculous for 24\7 use) speed at those settings is 3.565GHz HyperTransport Clock - 2070MHz (oh yea!) using a 9x Multiplier North Bridge Clock - 2300MHz The multiplier on this board is LOCKED at 10x so be careful when choosing your own reference clock is u don't like mine. Memory Bus - 460x2 = 920MHz (DDR2) Current VCore - 1.33v will probably lower it eventually. NB VDD - 1.15v will adjust if necessary. HT width and voltage has not been touched as i am not done tweaking the memory controller and northbridge yet. When running Prime- Cores do not exceed 41C on stock cooler, that's crazy! NB remains stable at 43C I will update with more if i get it faster with pics soon too. According to newest version of Everest Ultimate 5.3- This system is currently faster than a stock Phenom X4 9500(quad 2.2ghz) and an Intel Core 2 Xtreme X6800 (dual 2.93ghz). Remember, i paid less than $400 for this setup.. i'm gettin my moneys worth out of it for sure.

sounds like it means that as of 11-30-09, it will take approx 30days to build per order request. Due to the time delay, they are willing to give you the cooling option for free as a way of apologizing for the delay.

u need 2 XP alts for that vehicle from DC Power.

i think you need a line driver... Lol. Seriously though- what head unit do you have? If it's an alpine, then you won't have a problem because i'm familiar with those. If it's another brand, look for a sub level control somewhere in the settings. This will control the preout voltage. Set this to 0 and start adjusting gain with head unit at 3\4 of the way up. If the amp is measuring out as clipping to early, turn the sub control down in to the negative range.

i wanna get me a projector. It'd be my first one. I only have small HD monitors, no real big screen lcd HDs so i wanted to try out the projectors. Think the HD65 is the way to go?

yep, that's what i've heard too. From what i hear, people who can show proof of their work via pics should prove to a company that you have what it takes. Experience owns.

it shouldnt matter which one can handle more power because if you look at it that way, you are going down the inefficient path. Use the power you have wisely. On a general note, sealed can control a subwoofer better than ported given the proper optimal enclosure comparisons but ported is more efficient. 6th order bandpass designs for spl competitions are very efficient and are very hard to tune and very hard to determine sub stress and may likely kill a sub in such a setup with lots and lots of power. The topic shouldn't be compared in the open as if everybody should use this box or that box... it's based upon what room you have, the goal and the equipment used.

lol, i havent either. Maybe i was coverin the boundaries just in case there was an oddball out there.

when doin grounds, if you are unsure of whether the ground spot u chose is the best, do this- get some jumper cables and only use the ground side and connect one end to the negative battery post and the other end to where you are grounding at. Whip out the dmm and measure what your voltage is at the battery before and after doing this. If the voltage goes up, you need a better ground, if it stays the same, the ground location is great. When running batts in the back of the vehicle, if you have a measureable voltage drop of more than .1-.2v, run a cable from the rear grounding terminal on one fo the batts to the grounding terminal on the front battery. If the measured voltage on the rear batts increase, you need a better ground or more runs. IF you think the runs are sufficient and can't get a better ground, run another large cable dedicated solely as a grounding cable from the front to the rear batt bank. Jumper cables and a dmm will help find an answer to voltage issues like these quick. I'd also like to add that when measuring voltage in the rear, it's best to have the car revved slightly just in case your alt doesn't "turn on" on your car's actual idle speed. Also, when using jumper cables, do NOT have a crazy monsterous load goin on either, most jumper cables aren't even 1/0 and i wouldnt want anyone melting wire from leaving them connected from a crazy load. You shouldn't even really need a load other than the car being on. that should be plenty to measure voltage issues and grounding locations. This is the method i use and i gotta say, u don't know what's good ground til you test it and some places may shock you as good and bad places to use in terms of resistance...