shizzzon

i dont know, not everything can be taken for granted when it comes to car audio products... See and hear some odd products out there.

ok, lol forget what i said about ohms, ... That should be fine.

you have to see. Those fmod things are rated based on ohms so make sure you get one for the right wire configuration. 2nd, see what the rolloff is on them because i don't know them off hand. If they have a small roll off of 3-6db, might wanna get one just a hair higher if you start to have bottoming out issues.

they have great customer service.if i didnt think they were any good... i woudlnt have 6 3500ds sittin next to me,

if it's autoranging then all u gotta do is connect the positive probe to positive speaker terminal and negative probe to negative speaker terminal and just increase the gain on the amp until the wave clips on the scope. IF it's not autoranging, then you will need to "zoom out" until the graph stops going off the screen. Basically this is what you do- Set head uit to 3\4 of the way up, flatten all boosts, bass settings, EQ everything to 0 or off. Turn bass boost off on amp as well and keep gain turned all the way down. LPF should be all the way up and subsonic all the way down. download a 50hz tone from my sig at the bottom. Start to play this tone. While the scope is connected, gradually increase the gain until wave flattens at top and bottom(make sure the graph isn't larger than the screen because if it is, u gotta zoom out) Once u reach this point, turn it back down just a hair so it stops clipping. Do the same thing to the other amp. Once the other amp is done, go back to the first amp and remeasure it and adjust gain if necessary and same to the 2nd amp again. Now u can set your low pass filter and your subsonic filter before playing music. when playing music, you may be able to turn it up a couple to a few clicks above what u just set the head unit's volume at because the test tones i provide are VERY loud. Music isn't recorded this loud to put it simply. Example- my head unit goes up to 35, i set my settings at 27 and play music on 31. You can go a little past it when playing music but test tones and some bass tracks, keep it at 27 for long term use for this example.

nobody here will recommend using 2 different brands and power rated amps for your subs... Because of this, there is no way of syncing them together. You must do so with an oscope or match the voltage output on both with a DMM.

This is how you do it for any isntall- Your inline fuse on the power line is determined by adding all the fuses in your amps together. If this number does not come in that particular fuse size, get the next fuse size DOWN. So, for instance, you say 180A total, get a 150A. If it were 320A, get a 300A, etc... Also, it is important to know what your cable is rated at also. You don't want to try and run 3 amps that have 150A worth of fusing a piece(450A) off of a single cable that may only be rated for 300A and slap a 450A fuse on that wire... That's a no no, hehe. You add up all the fusing on your amps and use that number as your inline fuse ONLY up to the point of the rated maximum current of the wire. IF you have 450A worth of fusing for amps and it's controlled via 1 cable, inline fuse WILL only be the rated current for that wire which may be 250, 300, 350A etc... This is to protect the wire from melting. That's more important than protecting the amps in this case. For such a scenario like that, you would also have battery(ies) in the back and the single cable run from front to back would mostly be used just for the alternator charging current and 95% of alts will not consistently pass current higher than even what a single 1/0 cable can handle(300A rated cable that is). Although i wouldnt recommend just using single 1/0 cable either for that install due to voltage drop if charging current really was that high most of the time. Well, you should have grasped what i am sayin by now.

you know, if you ever need to know what can fit.. all i need is the dimensions of the cargo area. If you need a design created for you, that's through PMs. I just went through 2 whole pages of speculation of what can\will fit. Just give me the dimensions of the cargo area you are willing to take up for a box so i can narrow your sub choices down now.

take both amps fuse ratings and add them together then get a single fuse as close as possible to that number.

that's me and, hehe, my partner in crime had a little too much to drink last night.

If u have built boxes before then building a wall isn't too hard. Look at Lucky 76, i designed his wall and he has never built a wall before. Plus, if the tiem comes, he can break it out of his aviator and return the vehicle to stock cosmetically if that option is required as well. This is basically what you need- Measure the maximum dimensions u can use for a wall. At that point, the baffle is drawn out and the internal volume is calculated to determine what should be installed. Once this is determined, it is then time to start planning on your goals for the wall. Is it for competition and if so, what sanction? Is it just for music and if so, what tuning? What is the vehicle's maximum recommended weight rating? What kind of power will you be running and what electrical system would you have?

It is also VERY hard to gain 3db -6db under theoretical conditions in the real world too... VERY hard. The theory is double cone area while maintaining same power, or doubling power while maintaining same cone area will gain 3db. The theory is double both cone area and power to reach 6db. There are many restrictions which prevent this from always happening in the real world. Typically, doubling one thing will gain you about 1.5-2db and if you are already pushin the limits, 1db if you are lucky. The higher the pressure you try to create, the harder it gets. 150db is everybody's dream... 160db is the xtreme level for a daily driver, VERY HARD to do. 170db+ as far as i know is incapable of being driven due to the mods necessary to accomplish such pressure.

yep, i'm about to order some cable from them. Their cable is also rated to handle more current than any car audio cable of equal size. I do not know if they are rating their cable the same as car audio cable though. Car audio cable is rated based upon a certain percentage drop in voltage over a range of whatever feet... I don't know if this still holds true for welding cable or not... What i do know is welding supply's 1/0 cable is rated at 350A at 50ft! whereas stinger's 3/0 cable is only rated at 350A per length of car on average.

hey Rusty, got your other design for ya. 2 12" Treo's 3.2cuft tuned to 35hz- Email me for the approval. Edit- there will be corners in the port, just didnt put them in there.

did i say $300? I must be stupid.... I meant $250 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-MRP-M1000-CAR-MONO-POWER-AMPLIFIER-1-CHANNEL_W0QQitemZ360213249724QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item53de61febc

Gonna start re-modifying my car again soon... Got me a pretty damn good battery charger recently so i can keep my batts in tip top shape. recently had some complications with my charging system so DC Power is modifying it for me and will be back in better performance by the end of the year. I am also modifying the charging cables for the alternator and getting a 5 connector battery terminal soon too for massive surface area coverage. I will be modifying the radiator area to attach a welded bracket system behind the radiator to allow the capability of running dual 1/0 cable lines rated at 700A at up to 50ft! to the battery post. I will also be modifying the ground area and making it more efficient and dual grounding the alternator as well. Sometime soon, the car will be lined in SPL Tiles + Sludge soon when the product is completely finalized. Us competitors must do crazy things when trying to reach the goal of a 160db+ daily driver... did i say that?

if u need an amp that does power at 2 ohm, then look for an amp that is rated for maximum performance at 2 ohms. the Alpine MRP-M1000 is rated at 1000w@2ohm and can be had for $300. If you want a serious amp, check out Alpine's PDX.1000 amp. It does 1000w at 2-4ohms and is guaranteed to deliver lots more power to a setup than an equivalent amp rated at just 2 ohms but is also just over $400 too.

This was an interesting design for this guy. Design calls for 2 boxes. One specifically for daily driving music and another for straight competition. The designs are for an SUV. Setup- 4 Sundown SA-8s off of 2 Sundown SAE-1200ds Daily Driver- 3.6cuft tuned to ~31hz Now for the almighty SPL box. A true spl box is one that can be continuously modified until maximum output is found. This doesn't just mean port length tuning but firing direction too! The following box design is an interchangeable baffle. Yep, you read that right, interchangeable baffle with 4 position port firing locations capable PLUS the capability of fine tuning this box from 32.5Hz - 62Hz. Please Note, THIS IS AN SPL BOX. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PLAY MUSIC WITH THIS BOX OR YOU COULD RIP THE SUBS TO PIECES! Also, when testing with this box, if you come across a part of testing where you found the right port length but the subs are bottoming out, contact me about building a larger corner piece at the back of the port to reduce volume low enough to prevent such action from happening. Here is SPL box- So, how does the interchangeable baffle work? If you look at the floor of this box, you will see 4 cutouts for the 8s. ALL 6 sides of this box are dual layered 3/4" wood. The top floor piece is cut for 4 8s. The bottom floor piece is NOT GLUED but just secured into place for testing and is a solid sheet of wood. The top to this box will be 2 layers of wood BOTH cut out for the mounting of the 4 8s. ONLY GLUE the bottom layer of the top to the box. The top top part of the box is just secured into place, not glued at this time. Test with this firing position with subs up to the left and port firing to the left. Next, turn box around 180 degrees and have port firing to the right with subs up to the right. When u are done with that testing, remove the top top piece and the bottom bottom piece and swap them! Now you can flip the box upside down and be able to test with port firing to the front left or the back right instead of before- back left or front right. this is a multi test design to prevent from wasting money and time on building multi designs. Once all testing is complete, GLUE the remaining top and bottom piece into place. Like always, if you approve, let me know via PM.

for aero ports and port calculatio, go to www.psp-inc.com

message me and let me know what vehicle it is for.

so what's the verdict, u know i'm curious.

hehe, u know to get ohms you must have voltage and amperage present. So, if you set your gains with speakers connected, then you will have impedance rise to deal with. You won't know what the rise is unless you clamp one fo the 2 wires and take a voltage reading at the same time. Pointless route to go.. an oscope is the most accurate way of setting gains on an amp.

true but man... long port ftl.

moderate clipping might not be either. Clipping is a lot harder to detect in a subwoofer. That's why many people damage subs or else they'd know to turn it down when somethin weird sounding happens.

case closed... Due to port area being way too small, anything else wouldnt really matter at this time. You need a new box built. Because the box is 2cuft net, the proper port area would drastically reduce the net volume so a new box is in need.