shizzzon

I'm goin. i go to everything i dont know why... Nobody else around my area is goin so checkin to see fi anybody in the TN area might be goin...

just like we know thorshammer has ran a stetsom 14k2d on a single DC level5... I'm sayin subs can take a LOT MORE power than rated because it's based upon the install and how the amp is actually setup. The less you clip your signal, the more power in a short time period the sub can handle. You also must be able to control movement. Once you master those 2 things down, then a sub can handle an enormous amount of power. For long term use, i don't see the practical use as it would hurt too much to keep it that loud. I wired a 3,000w amp up to an AQ HDC3 and burped it a couple times and the dustcap was still cold.. not even luke warm. I run 1750w per DC Level4(not XLs) in driveby usage FULLY CLIPPED for a 30 sec run and they take approximately 42seconds before they will start heating up. Luckily 30sc is all i need to get my score down. IF it were clip free, it be a lot more power. Snoopdan ran 5,000w to each RE SX sub for burps and 2,500w for longterm daily use. They'd have to get reconed every several months though... intentionally though, not by accidental abuse. Ben Hemp has ran a pair of strapped sundowns at 1 ohm to a Mach5 SPL 12 without problems and one of my AQ HDC3s strapped at 4ohm. my new design will consist of over 10,000w per driver as long as i stick to my plans for next year and i have no worries about failure because it's all in the control and design. Power ratings are based on a combination of things, thermal and mechanical. They work with each other. You can control them if u know what you are doing but if it fails... u don't know what you are doing.

i use an interchangeable ports for competition burps, competition driveby and daily music

lol, no, it won't harm your alternator. If u want all the itty bitty details, contact xspowerbatteries.com or contact scottie J at Powermaster.

either contact nathan or scottie at www.xspowerbatteries.com or contact the member phi on here as he has the same type of problem you have but he is getting a 270A alternator for his. He'd know more about it than i would.

where r u located? U will also need to install all sound deadening to be used prior to testing. If it's a wall or any other type of design which will section off part of the car for the box, you will need to test AFTER the box is built AND have an adjustable port so u can build it to the right length.

if both subs are in the same line, then 2 10s by far. I would even opt to build the enclosure slightly larger for the 2 10s for even better efficiency. Use about 60-100sqin of port and you will like it.

he was askin how to measure wattage output out of curiosity, not how to setup an amp although people need to know this even if they don't want to know. As a first tool, YES an oscope is great. I believe everyone should own one but even more a DMM at the same time. I typically only use my ammeter to measure output\input loads for fun or strictly for fused based competition usage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl4v8n5EXl0&feature=rec-HM-r2

Please elaborate because without current, there is no wattage. My oscope has a setting to calculate wattage but it's only based upon what ohm load you want it to calculate with which is funny since you can't know the actual load without voltage and current.

i tend to read reviews from multiple sites until i find one, a decent one. I typically don't spend no more than $50 for a DMM, $150 for an ammeter and $200 for an oscope.

I completely forgot to answer your question, lol. You take a DMM and set it to AC volts and connect it to your speaker terminals on the amp which is easiest. You also take an ammeter and clamp ALL wires of the same polarity together coming off that amp only. If you clamp + and - it will not read anything. So, you then get a live reading of AC volts x AC amps and this will give you wattage output. It's easiest to measure on a sine wave and have sturdy connections!

i dont know what they are rated at... I also dont know what u are expecting to hear either. Only way to know is just do it and then comment on any complaints you "might" have. If u do, then i\we can tell you why based upon what a problem might be.

every frequency will put out different, or should i say it better- Every different note will be at a different resistance, therefore output power "should" be different. However u can have a resistance of 2.65ohms put out 150w and 1.8ohms put out 150w.. How is that possible? When the resistance was higher, the note being played had a lot higher amplitude than the lower resistance note did. that's why i had to reword that. Also, because resistance fluctuates, we base power like u said 450w off of amplifier power.. When u put a 1,000w amp on a sub, it isn't gonna see 1,000w, it's just wired that way to specifications... Lots of times, it may only see 200w or less off a 1000w amp so when using a 450w amp, it's really gonna be low split among three subs. The only way to compensate would be to use LARGE enclosures. Just like i plan on runnin 39,000w of rated power to 3 subs next year... Now, i know they wont see that. Hell, they probably won't even see a total of 15,000w of actual power... But, that's not the point or the goal for me. The goal is to ensure i can get lots of power so i can provide a boat load of CLEAN power to the subs for long term metered use such as bassrace or driveby or the new 60sec FCBC competition coming next year around Louisville only(as of now).

it's divided by the number subs being used. Although with that amp, each sub will probably see 50watts... You'd be amazed how loud 10-20w per driver is if u ever measure output power.

every time i am asked to check out a new ride a friend of mine just got, usually from their work, i do quick brainstorming of internal cubic volume to determine what i "could" do to the vehicle if it were mine, And this is no lie, everybody at my work site knows me for brainstorming number figures constantly off the top of my head about anything, one thing being potential installs for any vehicle i come across. And of course, i know i'm addicted when i actually take time out from myself to just go help somebody install an entire system or just talk to them about plans for a system and refuse to leave until they have a goal in the right direction. I hate knowin people that didnt go the right way with their money and ideas..

ok, i got a design for you- It's around 5 cubes NET tuned to ~36.5hz

that's what i mean.. DEEP.... From the Rear of the trunk to the back seats... the depth.. I need to know how deep i can maintain 38" wide x 16" high.

oh WOW, so the trunk arms lower 10" from the top? that's insane.... Ok, well, lol, can't go no wider than 38" then... How deep can i go from the back of the trunk to the front of the car maintaining 38" wide?

so your saying in between the trunk arms is 43" wide? How deep can 43" wide remain 43" wide from the back of the trunk going forward toward the rear seats? You say 36" in your first post but it doesnt look like that's possible.

there is a gap that the former sits in and the sub rides up and down like a... nvm Anyways, in a daily sub, this gap is large to accept the tolerances of abuse and most importantly the range of frequencies that the sub must accept at any given time making the movement not as linear as u think it is. In competition, there is usually only 1 note played at a time. Because of this, the gap is smaller to concentrate more force to the sub itself. With a single note being played, the movement is far more linear. Even if competing, choose daily if u wish to use it for musical playback. I may have thrown some terminology around but i got the idea out there anyways.

I'm interested in designing it for you but i have some trunk measurement questions. How wide is it from wheel well to wheel well right behind the back seat? Once past this area moving back, how deep is it from the point the wheel well area starts to widen to the back of the trunk? What is the width in the back of the trunk ocne the trunk widens as much as possible? What is the height with the trunk closed if the box was built wide enough to sit under your trunk lid arms? I don't want the box to hit these things.

Well, just got the answer and it is confirmed by scottie J himself. Example was- If u have an alt rated for 270A and engine is currently revved to 2,000rpm. If you have a constant load of 185A and VCM is set to 14.9v, your voltage will NOT drop at all as long as u don't have any belt problems, etc... So, like i say before, the thing is geared to keep voltage stabilized until alternator maxes out... This is better than what any voltage regulator can do and more.

there is 2 power wires for a cd player. "USUALLY" the red wire is ignition wire and the yellow wire is 12v constant wire. Sounds like u got the wrong wire(s) connected together.

i dont see why not. If a single D3100 couldnt do it, a Group 8D from power surge sure would!