shizzzon

i am awaiting the answer to your belief as i see u will see it too, hehe, when it gets posted, hopefully by XS and not by another user.

Tommyk- somewhere reading someone stated it maintains the set voltage until the alternator reaches it's maximum current output based on whatever rpm u are currently at of course. So, it supposedly will do more than just remain stable due to alt temps. Caps are known around here as voltage stabilizers, that's why i had asked about the comparison since voltage does fluctuate on a typical system a couple tenths of a volt anyway at least.

i also like to know how it works... However, i was told i will have to wait until the patent is finalized before Powermaster can publicly announce how it does work. i'll give u this link but i dont know if u find the info u want- http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18816 I can't find the original link that first announced this product, i'm still looking for it.

i'm not the bonding guru but this is what i believe- titebond is far more thinner than liquid nails is. That means that titebond should be able to fill pours or bond more precisely than liquid nails could since liquid nails is so thick. Now for running along joints, you want something thick here so i prefer liquid nails. I also notice liquid nails likes to have air pockets in itself so after letting it cure for a while, u may notice some spots that have popped. This is why i apply silicone over the liquid nails.

that's why i predrill the locations for the l bracket before i lay the bonding glue down. I then apply titebond, set piece in place, then screw the l bracket into place. i wouldnt tighten all screws in to the bracket as some will lift the wood back up. After sitting for just a couple minutes, run liquid nails across the joint all the way down so all the glue cures at once.

if the one that lies wants to eat u, by asking will u eat me will make him not eat you or else he would be acting on the truth...

Here is one that is sure hopefully to keep your heads twisted for a while... 2 = 1 how? a = b aa = ab aa - bb = ab - bb (a + b)(a - b) = b(a - b) a + b = b a + a = a 2a = a 2 = 1

will you eat me?

i'll let u guys tackle this oen while i get a harder one in the works.

Very Good.. Now a new one, this one isn't as hard.... or is it? You have 2 American coins that add up to 35 cents. One of the coins is not a dime. What are the coins?

nope, he only has $2

Three friends check into a motel for the night and the clerk tells them thebill is $30, payable in advance. So, they each pay the clerk $10 and goto their room. A few minutes later, the clerk realizes he has made anerror and overcharged the trio by $5. He asks the bellhop to return $5to the 3 friends who had just checked in. The bellhop sees this as anopportunity to make $2 as he reasons that the three friends would havea tough time dividing $5 evenly among them; so he decides to tell themthat the clerk made a mistake of only $3, giving a dollar back to eachof the friends. He pockets the leftover $2 and goes home for the day! Now, each of the three friends gets a dollar back, thus they each paid$9 for the room which is a total of $27 for the night. We know thebellhop pocketed $2 and adding that to the $27, you get $29, not $30which was originally spent. Where did the other dollar go????

While sitting here thinking about how i keep reading about capacitor or battery topic.. this popped in my head. So, i am curious... With the new XS VCM, will this not only replace MLA but also capacitor use period? For those that don't know what an XS VCM is, let me briefly describe it. It is an add-on device for stock or aftermarket alternators that has an attached module that sits in your car. This module is set to any voltage in 0.1v increments up to 19.5v if your setup supports such voltage. When the VCM is used, whatever voltage is set, this voltage will NOT fluctuate...not fluctuate...not...ever(with slight exception below) In testing, it is shown that, for example, when set to 14.9v, the voltage did dip down to 14.8v but that's it. The VCM is not effected by temp, regulator, computer or other conditions that can make your voltage fluctuate. When pulling current out of alternator, the voltage will NOT dip below it's preset value unless the alternator is maxed out based upon rpm value. Once the alternator has reached it's maximum current output, the VCM can no longer keep voltage stable and will drop to battery voltage from there until demand is lowered or ceased to allow the alternator to control the demand 100% again. So.. since this thing keeps voltage stable... Is this the end of automotive cap use? By the way, this module is under $150 so it's many many times cheaper than a lot of capacitors out there.

just install everything as is and keep electrical stock. If you have voltage problems and concerned about weight at same time, replace stock battery with largest battery that can fit in there from kinetik, xs power, power surge, deka, stinger, odyssey, etc.... Also, add a 1/0 cable run from alt positive to battery positive, add 1-2 1/0 grounds from battery ground to chassis and run 1/0 from front battery to amp. If amp doesn't support 1/0, step it down through your inline fuse holder to 4awg.

my wall is screwless in terms of running screws throught the thickness of the wood. I used nothing but L brackets and plenty of bonding glue and joint glue inside to build the wall. It did a 155 in the kick off a SINGLE layer of wood so i think the joints are pretty strong.

well then, i hope the rest of CACO realizes this because when the VCM gets released next week... this is their impressional use.

7 cubes per is fine, nothin wrong with that.

the easiest way i know of would be to install the XS VCM and replace all batteries in the car with XS 14v AGMs. It is kinda expensive but to maintain 16v daily.. it isn't cheap. Daily means sustained use and 16v sustained use is around the max in car electronics can handle.

if it were me, i'd go about 8 cubes per driver.

i set my subsonic filter to maximum excursion without bottoming out. Subsonic filter settings vary with power applied... Sometimes you need not use it at all, other times, up in the 40s even if tuned below that... It all depends on the install.

i always try and run a minimum of twice the rated power to all my subs but u gotta make sure that u don't reach the thermal or mechanical threshold while doing so. More power requires smaller boxes and less to no clipping.

honestly, if u could wire both of your 15s to a 2 ohm load, i'd opt for an Audiopipe 3000d for $310 when tryin to save some money if u want monsterous power. Phi on here is runnin a pair of ssd 10s off that amp at 4ohm(2,000w) and they NEVER get warm! These SSDs want about 1,500-1,800w per driver non clipped for them to be reachin their thermal limits. I must warn you though. Based upon my experience with the SSDs, if you do try and run that much power, make sure that the box that is being used is about the smallest size Fi's recommends or else they will bottom out in no time. Phi has his 2 10s in a 3cuft box and his subsonic filter must be turned up in to the 50s to compensate for the low end. The box needs to be smaller for daily use.

when u reach a certain box size like u got now 2.24 cubes at 30.9hz, this is what u should know- Decreasing internal volume will raise tuning. Increasing internal volume will lower tuning. Increasing port area while maintaining same port length will increase tuning. Decreasing port area while maintaining same port length will decrease tuning. Increasing port length will lower tuning. Decreasing port length will raise tuning. pick a route to go to get to your goal.

please don't use spl headunit.. someone else did that not too long ago and didnt make any sense.

Wow, PA just convinced me to smack them across the face... Apparently they have built this amp and probably the whole line 100% for market hype and what people hear through the grape vine of things to look for when purchasing a high powered amp... Dual power n ground terminals.. Yes, a plus on amps that NEED them.. hint hint... I can say that it has a nice case design.. is that it? I doubt it can do it's 3,200w rating... I don't know why but all high powered amps i see do not use onboard fusing... I don't know why that is but this does and is sticking out and i'm confused... I'm gonna go eat turkey...