shizzzon

i'm not fond of FoxConn's motherboards because I use Asus and have loved them for the last 7yrs i've been using their equipment. I've used their motherboards, video cards and monitors, never had a problem. I've read people who have with their boards... but i assume to believe that these users are inexperienced and are killing their boards through ESD and not knowing it. When building a more budget type setup, i prefer Biostar, Gigabyte or MSI (sometimes).

Ha, FoxConn makes iPhones and they are based out in china.... I guess iPhone users aren't gettin proper wattage out of their phones, lol

remember people, DbDrag is sealed too so those running in outlaw may typically see a 2-4db increase. Also, SPLScion- when u said tune 3hz below car peak and burp at that note... that doesnt make any sense. You should build the port to PEAK at the car's peak then play that note. THE ONLY time you should intentionally "overtune" a box and play at box's tuning is if you are attempting to restrict the subs movement due to the monsterous amounts of power being supplied.

well, if u are right, i havent read the entire log but i am assuming you are tryin to figure out why it rolls off so quick? I dont know.. but i'll see what happens when i say this- It may be tuned too low because... the box is in a volume that is too large for the expected outcome... Low pass set too low. Resonance peak in car is in the low 40s which is extremely exaggerating output before you audibly hear a "roll off."

Polyfill isn't like an option to fall back on if u make a mistake on a ported design, hehe. You CAN use polyfill in a ported box by lining it securely along the walls and NEVER loosely but it's not a valid option to fall back on. I'll show you my wall this saturday.. was hopin u could bring your setup down here so i could diagnose it,

The AP30001D is a 2 channel class d amp. 1500wx2 @ 1 ohm per channel or 3000w @2ohm bridged and 2000w @4ohm bridged.

if u lookin for cheap, get the AP30001D. At least i know this thing does it's rated 3000w and them some. If everybody remembers this weekend at the meet in Louisville, KY this saturday, I will be testing the efficiency differences between a sundown 3000d(~$525) and an Audiopipe AP30001D (~$320). Both of these amps are rated at 3,000w but differ greatly in price. The efficiency test is geared toward those running in MECA who are limited in fusing to see if it's beneficial enough to save the money and switch to Sundown to get more power out with the same current draw before your inline fuse pops. The sundown will be wired @1ohm which is rated to do 3000w and the audiopipe will be wired at 2ohm bridged which is rated at 3000w. Stay tuned later this weekend for the results.

actually, having enough straight forward comments from ///m5 has allowed me to be more straight forward toward some people who, as we have seen before, provide hardly any information and expect the best help possible. If they can't handle the tough life, then they leave or are not interested enough to learn. Now, what i would like to see is explanation of 1-sided forwarding comments. Having to discourage someone of an incorrect thought process or explanation should only be justified with an explanation rather than derrogative comments without answers that may be true... That's probably why many people look away and why this thread was even made. You can't know or learn without knowing or learning.

nope i got u beat.... by far.... Fallen soldiers..... I never mean serious disrespect but i do enjoy comedy quite often.

Hey, i found a clip of him talkin to someone when SSA had videochat....

keep talkin like that and i will remove your posting privileges

this thread is full of worthlessness and i am going to close it....

then that's somewhat interesting. Having car on with a test tone can gain u 2-2.5db typically. oh ps... next time u go to a show.. i gots some music for you, automatic increase u need a song with a constant focus on a single tone with a rhythmic beat in between to be legal... i gots u covered. Songs like this are more efficient on your amp's current draw for a sustained period of a couple of good full tilt seconds without it drawing extra power for useless frequencies that will only heat your subs up and drop your score.

um.. if they are special... then they must be the BTLs... otherwise he's full of And don't get all happy... u can't run that kind of equipment in AS1 anyways.

The beginning of the end has happened... I hope we can still communicate before the meet this weekend...

ported is many times more efficient than sealed. So noticeable in fact a quick box swap from sealed to ported using same sub can be easily noticeable in the pressure increase. For the human ear to distinguish it immediately shows just how much of a difference a ported design is. An average rule.. not so much for every design but think for every 2 subs sealed will equal 1 sub ported. There is no exact science here but to expect 4 15s sealed should reach(notice how i said reach instead of equal or surpass) the output capability of 2 15s ported... but there are other factors such as power that can greatly effect this guessing game. IT's getting pretty easy nowadays to break a 150 with 2 15s for a comp box but 4 15s sealed... that's an interesting challenge.. Most people wouldnt do it because it's wasted money.

what are you running, what vehicle and what amps?

i have never seen a cheaper is better for high output alternators unless it's only by a few bucks but 50% difference... no, don't go that route. Cheaper alts have this to worry about over a well built one- Is the output rating cold or hot? What is the idle output? What is the idle rpm rating at idle output? How is the cooling system at peak output? How long can is sustain maximum output? What is the maximum alt rpms it can receive before failure? What is the maximum output rpm rated at? What is the voltage regulator set at if internally regulated? Is it direct bolt on or is modification required? Will it effect or is it controlled by the car's computer? Do i need an overdrive pulley for proper idle output? Did I lock the door today when I left to go to work? Am I pregnant or did I eat too much today? Once you know these answers, you can distinguish the good from the bad.

oh no, we aren't meeting at the zoo. That's just the closest place to our meet. The actual meet is at the Riverport off Intermodal drive.

actually, that's not how it's designed, it's designed to have sub up, port back. The reason why the rear is double baffled is because it isn't braced and the top doesn't need to be. If you like it, refer to your pms.

no cuz it's angled on both sides. I think it's a ULO - unidentified lying object.

yea, i havent read the whole post but was leaning towards if it's tuned a little higher than what he wants, he could back the tuning way low so the difference in the upper and lower range isn't as noticeable. u could just do what i do.. while i do like the lows, i don't like them to dominate the entire car either. my last 2 cars physically falled apart from tuning too low with under 2kw. What i like to do personally is tune low but use small boxes. That way, you get just enough lows to satisfy but a monsterous upper range because tuning low in small boxes allows the box to not peak until further on down the range. For example- when i tune my wall to 27hz, i peak at 48hz. When it's tuned to 33hz, it peaks around 54-56hz. And i'm not missin the lows either.... u can ask those who have sat in it before. Again, this is personal preference. Just another idea to throw out there.

Bia Bia peaks above 60hz so it's typical that this song sounds terrible in most setups that are tuned low. If you want well rounded bass like that, go either sealed or tune REAL low to try and get a flat response.. or just tune in the low 40s and lose some low end. Either way, you are gonna lose peak output potential somewhere in the playing range. also, that 30001d is a BEAST. I metered this amp doin over 1200w at 7.3ohms so u WAY OFF if u think it only does 900w @2ohms.

here is a design for you- Note that i will not give port length because for competition, that is a pure trial and error thing to find out for yourself so the port lengths shown are for reference. The picture shows a theoretical tuning of ~39hz, HOWEVER because i left some space to the left side of the box, the acoustical length could actually increase length by as much as 20" simulating the entire height of the box and then some resulting in a very low tuning. Won't know til you try... The pic shows dual 6" ports (aeros highly suggested) that will NET somewhere in the 5.5cuft range +\- .3cuft due to port changing. The box is for a single 18 or can be used for a single 15 as well. If used for a 15, you could then add cornering. Do not add permanent cornering if using an 18 as the design is low on space but feasible.

u can locate it at the meet,