shizzzon

ok, what time?

Box is going in a Tahoe. Fi BL 15 5.0cuft NET @32hz using 108.5sqin of port. Awaiting Hunterp223's approval.

that's what i've tried to tell people before. Those who like pure ground pounding bass turn to AQ as that's what they do. Ironically, they do not focus on competition but just pure reliability for crazy loud bass for street systems. The 1000wrms rating for the HDC3s are NOT to be taken seriously if you are an experienced user. The copper series can easily take up to 2,400w daily and the aluminum close to 4,000w.... even though they are all rated at only 1000wrms. You wanna compare HDC3 to BLs... try comparing them to the BTLs in terms of thermal handling. Then you really get to see the savings. I would probably say though that a BTL would be more efficient than an HDC3 in the lanes but you never know til u try it. The HDC3s have an awesome cooling system on them, it's the main reason they can handle so much power. But with awesome cooling systems... don't expect superior motor strength.. or can you? Your 10 should way around 48lbs, pretty massive.

I'm curious as to what happened. It's possible a low voltage situation caused it to blow. I wouldnt use MAXI fuses either. I don't know if you know but in MECA, MAXI fuses are banned because they can accept a LOT of juice through these fuses before they finally pop so if over-current is the problem, that is more than likely why the MAXI fuse didnt pop. These sundowns are built quite strong and can put out a LOT of power. I'm sure it was a low voltage situation that caused it. You may need an extra battery in the rear. If you put new fuses in the amp and it pops immediately, then you have a serious problem and do not troubleshoot it but contact Sundown instead.

there is more than one type of 9a31, there are 3 that i know of.

9A31, go to www.remybattery.com If you ever need to buy them in bulk, let me know, i know a guy that has good hookups on them.

read what i posted earlier too, if u get another deka, don't get the solenoid as it wouldnt be necessary.

because you are bound by the typical retailer crap that has been passed down from hear-say for years

solenoids and isolators are different. Also, like Jay-cee said, you wouldnt need one if your front and rear battery is the same. If they are different, it's suggested as different battery technologies, makes and age can make batts drain off each other til one dies. This is a longterm process but once a cell is damaged, it's all bad from there. If u get another deka in the back, u can skip the need for a solenoid.

From a very good company- http://www.oznium.com/relay200 Pay no attention to how others wired it up, it needs to be turned on via ignition wire, not remote turn on wire on stereo. You can "technically" power it off remote turn on stereo wire but if u do, it's safer to buy a smaller 5pinned relay so this massive relay doesn't try to pull too much power out of the stereo's turn on lead plus you gotta turn the stereo on just to keep the rear batt charged if it's in a slight discharge state so... it's better if you use ignition wire.

ahh.. it's coming together now... so optima up front, hc800 in the rear, 120A alt and 3 amps... I'm gonna go out on a limb and "suspect" that the optima and kinetik were fighting with each other over time with them not being isolated in anyway possible. Doesn't Optima's battery technology differ from Kinetik? I believe it does but can't remember for sure. Anyways, you don't want that for one. At the least, a solenoid(high amp relay) will "isolate" your front from your rear batt(s) when the car is off. 2nd, it's possible that longterm play with the stock alt prevented the batts from being charged back up properly but i am leaning towards this possibly not being the problem and more towards the first one over a long term period. I believe if you had insufficient charging capability that it would have been a problem just after a couple weeks of crankin it all the time. For such a setup, i would suggest you keep the deka up front, i'm assuming it's a 9A31? that's 100aH. And get another 9A31 in the rear with a high output alt. that should do you in perfectly.

caps n batts are not choices. a cap is not to be used in substitute of a battery when a battery is required. Anyways, let's look at your last setup so you can get on the right track. You had stock battery up front, HC800 in the rear, stock alt. what amps were you using at the time? Also, what is your stock alt rated at and what car do you drive?

yea, nothin wrong with it. It's a choice between mechman and dc power. Whichever is cheaper is the way to go.

well, i'm assuming you put the original back on and it's better, right? You also might wanna look at the pulley that's on that new alt. If it can accept a smaller pulley.. then that's why it needs to be revved so high.

well, it's good that they are with an oscope. Did you by any chance set your subsonic filter mechanically or just guessing? What i would do is start where u are tuned at first. I don't know what u r tuned at so let's say u are tuned at 32hz. Let's cut back a few Hz, so lets get a 25hz tone. Since your gains are already set, this is gonna be easy. Take your subsonic filter and turn it all the way UP and put your head unit on the volume level you set the gain at. Now, start playing the 25hz tone for example. It should be pretty quiet since the filter is turned all the way up. Slowly start to turn it down while watching sub movement. When the subs reach a point that it either visually appears to be reaching it's xmech(not xmax) value or has bottomed out, one of the two(don't damage your subs), stop turnin the filter down as u have reached the proper point mechanically. Know the limits of your subs thermally too. don't spend a lot of time doin this as u could damage the coils.

We have meetups in our area quite often and a few SSA members are commin down to visit durin this time and lookin to see if anyone else wants to come and hang out for a while. Roll Call- shizzzon ben hemp Josh Shacklette (2009 AS2 World Champion) Enellz phi porkchop rattlebox317 Possibles- Darren (owner of dbeezcaraudio.com) Troy local MECA AS1 runner Possibly some non competitors... Looking for some more people to come out and meetup with us. Just wanna meet some of the SSA members on here and just kick it for a while, let me know. You might learn somethin, Plus you can get your ride metered for free if u show up because we have meters at every meet.

typically, if nobody knows what it is... it's either not made or only sold out of the country in which case $$$. I hope u find out what it is because i have no idea at all.

some of my local comp buddies that use(d) trucks would have sub up port to driver side. Height and depth the same dimensions. So, for example, if using a 12, height and depth would be about 15 inches external and width would be about 2.5-3ft long with external aeros. Single sub design off of 3kw-6kw can give 146-150s off a single 12 if competing so this box design is quite efficient.

It looks like it's made by BlurrAudio. It's called a BA Fuzzy 2000.1

lol never a good sign if you have to try and call at a certain time. a friend of mine called DC later in the day and got another answer right away. if Mechman was out of the office for a few days, I'm sure they were busy I'm not holding it against them. You misunderstood my post. I didnt say nor imply i wait til 430 to call... that's just when i'm available to call him, not the other way around.

I like u better if i had $10

I don't understand... i've called Mechman throughout the year bout 4 times and never not got a response and stay on the phone however long it took. I typically call around 4:30pm EST so right that down, lol.

you must have been doin somethin way wrong to rip those leads... I run 2 3500ds and 4 level 4s with NO subsonic filter at all, it's set at 5hz so basically no filter and i never have problems. IF you think your settings are right, you may wanna recheck your box especially a new one and make sure it's top notch.

it's up to you but you got a design flaw since u not breakin a 150 yet with that much power. One main thing i see immediately is your port area. You would benefit GREATLY if u rebuilt a new ported box, stay with 12cubes NET and build a massive port using roughly 300sqin minimum, 500sqin recommended but may not have the room. Make sure you built it as long as possible and test it. Take the port out, cut an inch off and test again and keep doin it til u get your highest score with this monsterous port then rebuild it permanently.

u better get your bear-ass back in the garage and install your wire!