shizzzon

Competitors don't like the show because the people who run Carl Casper do NOT allow competitors to demo their rides whatsoever and are NOT allowed to leave with their vehicle till after 11pm. Once you pull in, your vehicle is locked in the building til all spectators leave. Because it's in a building, i can understand sound dispersing quite a ways but no demos regardless of output level? that's pretty strict. So smokie, u've been everywhere, huh? What have you been doin to have to move so many times? You a serial killa, lol

Yea... i'd be hittin myself across the face if i had time to do that and not outside tweakin my wall and doin tests...

Weather affects voltage, the colder it is the higher your vehicle voltage will be until engine parts start running and warming up the vehicle (thats why batteries have higher CCA-Cold Cranking Amps than CA-Cranking Amps). While the termperature may effect the voltage, CCAs are ALWAYS lower than CAs. Only Short Circuit or Burst ratings are higher than CA. The colder the temperature, the less a battery can disperse at one time.

Sorry guys about not respeonding to PMs lately but have been real busy on my other many hobbies and competin and tryin to organize everything here. I AM NOT DELETING anybody's messages, they are still there so just hang tight and i will get to all of them as soon as i can. My mind is so twisted and running with info that i don't want to design someone a box and mess up on all the numbers, you know? So, after i get "unbusy", lol, i'll be back to do a lot more designs.

let it sit for a good 8hrs or so overnight and start it up in the morning.if it still reads that low, might have lost some tension in the belt somehow.. that or it's outputting a lot of current because the batt(s) are low.

nothing is wrong from just the available info i have.have someone rev your engine to 2-3krpm and measure it. it should be close to 15v if aftermarket alt metered at alternator

the higher notes will typically make you feel it poundin ur chest, like in the 50hz range. The high 30s to 40s will typically start to hurt your ears first or at least mine. So.. if u want the low lows.. you better be pushin a LOT of power to be able to get the higher range to output enough pressure to pop your lungs out, lol it could simply be just the way the sub is loading. Does the passenger side seem louder to your ears\body than the driver side? It don't matter.. bring that setup down here, we'll put it on a meter and see what's up. Maybe even get you to gain a db or two before you leave,

That's one of my buddies rides. Stock alt, stock batt i believe and a whole bank of battcap 2000s in the back of the truck bed in a tool box. He's powering 2 Sundown 3000Ds off of a single 12" sub doin close to a 149 right now. HERE IS THE REASON- Multi runs of power is to ensure lowest possible voltage drop. Multi runs of ground is to ensure that if the ground location being used on the rear batts isn't good enough, the parallel ground run from front to rear batts will compensate to ALSO ensure lowest possible voltage drop. That pic above, as of right now, he's got ALL spots ran. 16 runs of 2/0 cable for power and ground.

from experience, i would never go to the conclusion of installing a wall unless you plan on running TONS of power. You can almost always get louder than a wall without running a wall. It's running a wall that let's you sustain spl output for bassrace that helps. So, you could say that for daily driving, it's a good idea... well, it depends. Have you tried everything else? Unless you have tried multiple setups, multiple boxes, large range of power usage.... would it then be advisable. You can sustain spl in a non wall as well but it requires lots of cone area to do it and if you can't fit it in a non-wall, then a wall is the preferred method. It all depends on your goals. I'm willing to bet that i can clear a 160 in a non-wall in my scion tc. I always have ideas floating in my head about my car and others and know my options. I know it would take some work and dedication but i think it would be easier to do it in a non-wall too.

An installer isn't gonna spend the time to position a box just perfectly before u leave with the car. What you are hearing is a certain small range of frequencies that are maturing by the time it reaches your ear. 1\4 wave length theory.. there are also variations of that theory like half wave and all that. If you had a meter, i'm sure reinstalling the sub properly would achieve even higher spl. I'm not into SQ competition so i can't help you on that part of the question.

nah, get ben to deliver it, You don't want the sheets cut exactly in half because you never know when u could have needed an extra couple inches down the run of that sheet.

first thing we need to do is do a sub swap and see if u gain anything. Then we need to do box testing(may not) and then build a box for those 2 10s with 10,000sqin of port area, lol and see what u do then. Remember though, your trunk is gonna be isolated from the rest of the cargo area for this new build so I expect a major improvement in your score. Since the trunk will be isolated, that means we can do all kinds of mods to the interior wood design without effecting your trunk such as bolt down, extensive bracing, sanding, etc...

i'd like to just do a quick sub swap and see if u gain or drop anything... As soon as u get some more wire installed, that'd be the first thing to try. After that, time to start doin some box testin(might not do this though) and then go ahead and build a new box for those 10s with 10,000s

2 audiobahn eternals.same as the original Immortals built by Resonance, just with a 2.5" coil.they can move off of low power, thats why i mentioned them.

oh, i just remembered, i got 2 10s u can try and see if they any louder than those ssds. they got softer spiders and got pretty loud off 600w to the ear. u can wire them together at 4 ohm too. one of the 10s is partially messed up so if u damage it, i dont care.

well, i understand if he had to try and fit but he's got bout 7cuft gross in that trunk.thats good for a 15, 2 12s or 2-4 10s all with bout 120sqin of portif he dont mind spendin money on wood throughout the season, i'd like to try many designs

u seem to tell me that all the time when i'm not just reading it.. i've been told this from actual human beings.... I've also read this from multiple review sites.. The best research is to obtain info from multiple sources.. or at least that's what i've learned in college long ago. When a common denominator is found, it's usually the right one. Hell, my cousin's plasma screen is horrid but he also only paid $800 for a 50" so that's probably why. I know movie enthusiasts may prefer plasma over LCD due to the better blacks and no backlight bleeding, etc... but with all reviews and others opinions laid aside, i'm not a plasma lover because it doesn't fit my needs and many others agree with my opinion as well even when they go window shopping on their own. Nobody gonna win this argument since it's now opinion based.

well, i've already considered the idea of having his entire trunk built all around in wood then build a box from within. Brace and attach the box to the outer wooden case for more support. His current setup with his SSDs are in 3cuft net with a non-tunable port, just using ~55sqin of port tuned to an approximate number he peaks at. I know with a tunable port AND more port area would help a lot. I got a design that can give him 120sqin of port so more port area isn't the problem.. tunable port is but i can overcome that once i get there. I want to see him reach a 145 by the end of the competing season. That's a 5db increase. I don't think i can get an extra 5db out of just a different box and trunk design compared to the box he has now... but we got 11 more months before finals so we'll see what happens. Before he changes subs anyway, we already had planned on building a new box for his current setup anyway, that's the cheapest solution.

I am working with a new AS1 competitor trying to get them a really nice score this season. Basically, rules are as follows- System must reside in trunk only, car MUST be off and play a song only. Well, he currently did a 140.2 with 2 Fi SSD 10s and an audiopipe 3000w using a 35A fuse. This is my theory- Because MECA's classes are limited on fuses + cone area.. and cone area and power go hand in hand with each other... as long as the space is there... more cone area and less power "should" result in a higher pressure output. He was able to pull just over 100A off that 35A fuse to get his score. We aren't restricted on cone area but cone area + fusing x 10 cannot surpass 550. So, here are the possible choices- 1 10 - 45A fuse 2 10 - 35A fuse 4 10 - 20A fuse 1 12 - 40A fuse 2 12 - 30A fuse 4 12 - 5A fuse 1 15 - 35A fuse 2 15 - 15A fuse Actual volume available set aside, i believe 2 15s would be the ideal setup for such a class and if volume were restrictive, 2 12s would come in line next if they had adequate air space. Even with a 15A fuse, he should be able to pull about 50A long enough to get a score. Because that isn't large amounts of power, to attempt to achieve such a score at low power would require some stout motor strength, good efficiency and lower powered subs(less spiders\softer spiders) for lower power. So, with this thinking, I was looking into the DC Level2s for such application. Whenever i see people running AS1, it's usually single sub setups or dual sub setups with extremely low powered equipment(amateurs). I am trying not to believe that the key ticket to success is a single sub setup with massive power, while this can be possible, i'm venturing into other ideas right now. If anyone has any insight in this class, AS1, and some other ideas or anything, let me know. I know if he went with a single 12, he can run a 40A which should get him up to pull around 1500w which is plenty of power... There are options but since this is our 1st sanction competing year, i'm unfamiliar with past setups.

While WinISD may be able to show you Port Velocity... it will be just as wrong as assuming the spl graph will have the same response graph in the car... The Port Velocity graph changes based on power input... Ok, common sense... but here's the problem- The program attempts to calculate impedance rise at every note. This program has and can never be right at calculating impedance rise because there are 1,000s of ways of building a box equaling the same NET volume and different materials, bracing, etc... The result- if the impedance calculation is wrong compared to real world testing, then the port velocity graph will also be wrong.

Just got back from doin other division testing... I had also planned on doing Driveby as well in MECA. Still using the comp port in my ride tuned to peak at 50hz, i peaked on a roll out 6ft back at a 127.2db today, non-averaged. I got me some songs to create for Driveby but i got the HIGHEST peakin driveby car around, I peak at 47hz outside, try and get that loud that high. I got a new round of tweakin to do for Driveby so i'll be keepin the wall in for some time now.

If u are on a budget and want a large flat paneled 1080p or 720p TV, get LG or Samsung. From the specs and TONS of reviews i've read about many manufacturers.. LG and Samsung is your best bet. I do remember Panasonic, Sharp, Sony and Vizio having terrible life expectancies on their tvs. Too many reviews out there and warehouse employees i've talked to about these brands and the returns they see. I do believe Samsung rivals over LG though but LG is usually slightly cheaper too. 720p will be cheaper than 1080p. Make sure the tv at least accepts a 1080p signal. I would stick with LCD. While Plasma is a lot cheaper.. there are reasons why. Plasma is a dying technology mainly. Most to all of Pioneer's Plasma Engineers recently quit and all went to Panasonic... ironic.. Pioneer made some of the BEST plasmas and now with these people at Panasonic, there's no telling what they plan on doing. Plasma's gradually loose their lighting overtime and are far more susceptible to burn ins vs LCDs. (PS - when looking for a TV, look for some sort of "Pixel Shifting Technology" Samsung uses this. IT's to prevent burn in on still mages on the screen.) LED tvs should be cheaper than LCDs because it doesnt' cost as much to make but we all know how the market works.... Once the technology pays for itself, i expect LED tvs to plummit in price over the next couple years. I wouldnt go to a retailer because you will get jacked on price. Here are some suggestions- LG 37LH30 Samsung LN32B460 Some Panasonic lines are better than others. Toshiba is a good tv but usually a little more pricey for no reason. Try to avoid the sharp Aquos tvs as they are proned to a typical 2yr failure rate from what a warehouse employee told me about them. and vizio... i never tend to buy the cheapest priced equipment when you are looking for the highest quality picture.

What does best mean to you? Least expensive? Highest potential pressure levels? Cleanest sounding? Smallest box requirement? Lightest install?

what? get away from impedance rise?

Single Dual 1 ohm in series is 2 ohms. Quad 1,2 and 4 ohm subs can also be wired as 1, 2 or 4 ohms as well using parallel/series wiring method. Also, when troubleshooting, the following should be noted- If trying to make sure you have wired your subs correctly, look below for the load range your multimeter will read in- Before measuring resistance on your DMM, touch probes together. IF it reads 0, then you are ready to measure. If it reads something other than 0, then subtract this number from your measured reading to get the actual resistance reading. 8 ohms - 4.8-7.8 ohms 4 ohms - 2.4-3.9 ohms 2 ohms - 1.2-1.9 ohms 1 ohm - 0.6-0.9 ohms 0.5ohms- 0.35-0.45 ohms 0.25 ohms-0.17-0.22 ohms