shizzzon

This is normal for Kinetik's. .These types of batteries do this from time to time, don't worry about it.... I hope u didn't believe that, lol When it was red hot and smokin.. did u by any chance notice if the connections on both power and ground posts on the batt were secured tightly? also, once u took the terminals off, have u traced to where these cables go and make sure it's secured tightly there too? \ Oh.. and do NOT use that battery anymore either. Curious too, have u inspected your other battery up front?

tell him to go into the BIOS and load default settings and i dont care how slow it may be. See if that helps. If that doesnt help, PM me for help. It could be incompatible memory or memory configuration error. Good tip- never try to boost anything in the BIOS on a fresh install of a new system. The settings must be able to be burned in for a while or u can likely have permanent OC problems even if trying to revert to stock speeds.

i got my ride back. Got it back last wednesday. Go to the comp event page and go to the somerset section and read last post. Me and all my comp friends ALL placed 1st down at that MECA show. We destroyed the competition down there. Denim- That's cool. The 920 is the only reasonable chip to buy right now... These i7 chips are $$$ once u want somethin more than the 920, major price jump. the 920 is stock at 2.66ghz. I'm gonna set some OC profiles in his BIOS for OC variable setups and hoping for - a rock solid 3.5ghz (cross my fingers). up to 3.7-3.8 for at least an hour for xtreme demands for short durations. safe cool rock solid around 3.3ghz That's 3 profile goals i have in mind so i'll see if i can get em with this board. This board has so much control over voltage levels it's insane. If i can't get to my xtreme speeds simply because of temps, i'm gonna have to start doin cooling mods inside the case and if i gotta do that, that'll be fun. If i do, I gotta force air to only flow in certain areas or just in one precise direction but i may not need to. I will see in a couple weeks. After the build is done, I'll run the setup for a week straight in the owner's hands to make sure it doesn't ever crash on optimal settings before i start the OC process so there is no complications.

oh, well then u like me then, hehe. I don't get to see u post as often as others in threads i read so i gotta remember you, hehe. Well, at least i found another person with some good humor~

One of my friends wants a new pc, a gaming pc. his current pc is a single core P4 3.0ghz STOCK Alienware, non-OC'ed running the best AGP cards he can find... Funny thing is, he has no lag right now with the games he plays... (he must not be playin real games, hehe) So, recently his fan went out and almost destroyed the chip. I got it workin again but he's gonna give it to his nephew and he wants a new build... :) So, i suggest the following- Intel Core i7 920 (Quad 2.66ghz) ASUS Rampage Gene II (one of very few boards out now that support both Xfire-X and SLI and support for DDR3-2000!) Corsair Certified Xtreme OC 6GB of DDR3-2000 Memory Thermaltake Toughpower XT Monitored 750w PSU Single Rail. Thermalright Ultra120 Xtreme TRU-Black Edition Revision C HSF with Cooljag 110+CFM cooling fan system. Azza Gaming case - 2 5" intakes, 1 10" intake at processor, 1 5" exhaust at processor, 1 10" exhaust at processor. 2 1Terabyte Seagate V12 Hard Drives. HIS EAH4890 OC'ed video Card. Lots of other little stuff that has nothing to do with performance. Total cost after labor and Overclocking fees - Just under $1700. Here is what i am workin with- Here's the cooling system - Here is the memory cooling system - And, my personal OC favorite, , here is the Northbridge cooling system - (i like how ASUS knows that it isn't just the NB that needs protection but the caps as well) And an overview of the montrosity of the cooling system compared to the board itself- Bare Case - And with the mobo in the case- I had to stop right now, but i shall continue the build wednesday. For those who are waiting on box designs... This is one reason.. the other reason is this thursday... I got another order for a pc setup JUST LIKE THIS ONE, just lower OC capable memory and cheaper vid card but everything else is the same.

i don't want people to think that they can't have a power hungry setup on a 4 cylinder because that is what you imply about going to a V8. i dont know what's wrong... i'm sure getting any new car will fix the problem but there is something wrong with the current setup for it to be raising temps. That's a new one.

that has nothing to do with it! I got a 4 cylinder and i dont have temp or drag problems. I'm not mechanical savvy but that's not the reason and i know i don't have the best 4cyl engine either.

high output alternators can pull in excess of 10hp away from your engine. I can't have the alt on my car wide open with the AC on or the engine will start to act like it's misfiring.

do u drive an older model honda?

u could have the entire thing done in duraliner! Snoopdan had his entire wall inside and out duralined and it was so thick!, he was doin over 151s with just 2 18s and 1000w amp so it just doesn't look decent but also helps with pressure too.

ok, let's see if i can rephrase this. Port length calculators give you physical length. What the sub reacts to is the acoustical length. You sometimes may accidentally install a design in a car too close to the port exit and may extend the acoustical length causing the port to be tuned lower according to how the port reacts to the surroundings... So... in that previous example- port calculator wants a port to be 20" long. Well, passing over a single sheet of wood of 3\4" thick, the port wall you glue on is actually 19.25" long.... Ok, so now u know the port wall would typically need to be 19.25" long.. glued to back of wall = 20" Well, since now u know where i get the 19.25" from, now u will understand this next part- Port calculators.. unless specifically designed to accept slot port info properly will know when u are using a slot port.... sometimes you must modify the port length answer yourself depending on the port... In this case, you would be using a slot port so you would need to subtract 2" from the physical length requirement... and ADD it to the acoustical length... You might not know the actual acoustical length of a port unless you do some math but u will know that when using a slot port that half it's width is added acoustical length! So when using such port, you must subtract the length the acoustical length will add from the physical length calculated so the port calculator's answer remains accurate. I think i worded that right, hehe. So.. again, 4" wide slot port.. half it's width is 2" Port calls for 20" long... 19.25" port wall attached to back wall internally... If it wasn't a slot, the port wall would be 19.25" long. However, if we keep it 19.25" long using slot port, the sub will react to it being 21.25" long due to the 2" of additional acoustical length added from the use of a 4" wide slot port... Reduce 2" from physical length- 17.25" which will make the sub see the port as being 19.25" physical and the rest acoustically will still fall into play.

the reason i slightly lowered port area is to achieve a shorter port length. It's still within recommendations so no issues. When i design boxes, i don't want the port entrance to be close to the sub obviously so without seeing such pics while designing, that is why you may question the reason why i did it. Also, when designing a port that shares parts of the box's walls, that's a slot port. In a slot port, let's say the box is 10" tall internally. You get a port that is 10" tall and 4" wide and 20" deep. The depth 20" is your physical length, but you also have acoustical length as well. So, in a slot port, you take half of the width which is 2" here and subtract it from the required physical length. So.. let's say this port was attached to a single 3\4" mdf wall that needed to be 20" long.. The port wall depth itself would only need to be 17.25" deep, then add 2" for acoustical length - 19.25" then add 0.75" for wall thickness - 20" The reason why generic calculators may be off is because you also must know what type of surface the port begins and ends on\with. If the port is flared on one end, both ends, or just flush with the outer box, or not flush at all on either end... these all effect port length.

u can keep car audio batts in the house, AGM preferrable, and keep a charger on them when necessary. or... if u need low ohm loaded amps in the house, you can always get PA amps.

for car audio use, i don't think it has enough fo an xmax rating for such power if tuned low... And speaking of power, how is that sub gonna handle it's 800wrms rating on a 2" VC?

ok, just got back from the show and everybody that rolled with me... WE ALL GOT 1st PLACE!! Woohoo! ShiZZZoN - MX2-151.3 Phi - AS1-140.9 Ben Hemp - S3=148.3 Josh Shacklette - S2-145.3\DB3-123.6 We all got 1st place. Then, one of our buddies- Joshua Newton (Team Carlisle\Sundown\XStatic) - M4-155.6! (1st place) Paul Strouth was there! - M5 - 157.2db! (1st place) Paul Strouth also ran in DB5 scoring a 131.3db! (1st place) He uses 3 3500ds and a clam-shelled 6th order bandpass. I could have ran in M4 but decided not to and move myself to MX2 since i want Durock in my car next year... I would have beaten everybody in M4 except for Josh Newton... He runs 8 15s and ~250A worth of fusing burping between 30-35hz to achieve his 155.6db.

durock plus resin = resin + fiberglass + concrete + 1" welded steel for bracing= Holy !@#$@

not if ur ISP isn't dialup.. If you got broadband, then yes, plug the ethernet cable into the laptop and it should work fine. emphasize should, hehe.

didnt know the sundowns dropped again like that.. then I'd also recommend Sundown too. Sundown will outperform the AQ on low voltage for sure.

if all else fails, i can hardwire it through the lan port and get online. Then, u could download remote assistance (free) so i could log onto ur laptop and fix it from here. Unfortunately, even if i had to do that, it would be some time before i would have time to fix it due to all the other work i got lined up.

did u do it exactly in the right order i said? U can't have one driver installed and then try the other without it being uninstalled first! It may be possible that the driver needs to be uninstalled and the laptop restarted before an attempt to install another driver. I can get it working if i had it in front of me so dont throw it away. Even if u gotta wait til Carl Casper.. i can get it workin.

u need to uninstall the exclamation point driver, then try 1 driver i posted a link for.. restart pc after installing and check device manager. If it's still yellow, uninstall it again, and try driver 2 i linked earlier.. restart pc and recheck device manager.

Comparison information- Sundown can be ran between 10-18v. AQ can be ran between 7.5-18.5v. Sundown = ~$650 AQ = $549 (keep up with the news.. they on sale!) Low voltage scenario- Sundown should pull ahead in power output over the AQ but the AQ can still operate on insanely low voltage levels if u tryin to save money and not use any extra batts. Sundown has a higher resell value AQ's repair center is www.amprepaircenter.com AQ physically tests ALL amps that come in from overseas before packaging them up for customers. They pay extra burn-in fee for the builders overseas to test their amps before they are shipped to the USA. They could save money and not do this but they pay for it anyways. Then again, once it's here, they are retested for QC before being shipped to people like us. It is very rare for an AQ amp to be damaged. The repair rate for defects covered under warranty is xtremely low. Only warranty work i know of done to amps is due to UPS failure to properly handle amps but, of course, we all know those horror stories. The AQ amps also come with e clipping indicator light on the remote gain control so u can monitor your amp during playback to ensure you are not potentially causing harm to your sub(s). This helps all those who don't have the right equipment to setup amps do it a lot easier. I have personally tested their clipping indicator tolerance and it will dimly come on before you can visually see a square wave on an o-scope so it's very cautious.

did u install the remote wire run from the head unit to your amp? I would definitely check that first. Your remote out may also be faulty as well but i'm leaning more towards loose connection.

I know just from looking at the state records and competing modex2 will be easier to get points in. Also in ky mod 4 was louder than modex 2. There's also allot more things that are permitted in modex 2 as well so there's more room for upgrading. I highly doubt you will be able to run 24000 watts through 329 amps of fusing even with spreding it over 4 fuses. I know this because my buddy is in mod 4, he has 8 15's and 6 sundown 1500's. He can barely get a burp off with just this amount of power. I currently run 4 80A mANLs. Assuming current draw would be ~845A, that's my belief in hopes it would hold... If it didnt, i can always adjust my master gain so it can only pull a certain amount of current so i don't accidentally pop a fuse when i go knob crazy. I only have 7kw now so i could actually run my comp fuses for daily if i wanted to...

ok, yellow ! point means that either the driver installed is the wrong driver, missing files or not completely done yet. One way is check for the last one is to restart or turn off laptop which i'm sure you have by now, hehe, and turn it back on, go back into device manager and see if it's still there. If it is, right click it and select uninstall driver. At this point, try downloading the other link i sent you. You are to NEVER try to install more than 1 of the same type of driver or it can cause conflicts which i think is what's goin on.