shizzzon

i dont know, i'm helpin so many people right now.. post the specs of the box again.

yea, i got the pm few days ago. The volume is correct, the tuning isn't simply because of this- When using a slot port, one wall of the box is used as the port wall the entire time.. When calculating port length, once you measure from the outside in, once the prot ends on the inside, take the width(the smallest dimension) and divide by 2 then add this number to the port length for the added acoustical length... So let's say your port length needs to be 30" long.. your box is 15" deep internally using single baffle with 4" of port width internally... So, from baffle to back of wall is 15.75" deep then the thickness of that port wall is .75" so 16.5" deep now.. So we need 13.5" more... Instead of running the 13.5" long, you run 11.5" long.. The port width is 4" so divide by 2 = 2". 2" + 11.5" = 13.5"

last thign he told me is due to somethin about his job, he wasnt goin... Now i see this thread and i'm like?!?!?!?! Pick your shit up and GO. Who cares what u hit.. shows are shows. go and compete, go and spectate... whatever.. There will be a few people I compete with locally there as of right now and it's the beginning of the season so lots of amateurs may sign up as well... It's 2hrs and 50 min from louisville.

u guys still gonna be capable of comin down next weekend even though u said u wouldnt? lol Remember, oct24th- somerset, ky.. Me and my other friend competitor is meeting up early in the mornin around 830 to head down there... You got 9 days before the show... let me know. There should be about 5,000 cars down there... Last year, there was 4,800 registered members just in the car show field.

Yep, didn't Ben do over a 150 with 2 12" Type Rs? I believe he did. Besides shopping at bestbuy to keep warranty on subs is stupid... Unless it's manufacturer defect which is VERY rare, it's user neglect that subs get damaged and i don't sympathize with those who abuse their warranty privileges because of it.

I run 7,800w in the back off 250A alt so i can be a good comparison to your needs. I run 177aH just in the back of XS power and it isnt enough. I personally need 3 D2400s or 2 D3100s and a larger starting battery at my preference.

then only pull it out when u go to a show.. don't let your mom see you doin that.. keep your wood to yourself, it's your plug,

haha, the AQ's handle 3,500w aluminum, 2,400w Copper.... That power rating shown is to prevent the subs from gettin damaged under heavy clipping.

No, you can't go by one t/s parameter and that's your answer, lol. It's more complicated than that. The AQ HDC3 12s have more cone area than practically any other 12 out there according to their parameters. You also have motor force. The 2 12s will have more motor than that single 18 so now the tables have turned.... The 12s can handle more power than the single 18 so how much power you plannin on using? The 18 would likely have less phasing issues than the 2 12s so now what are you going to do? Just pick one and go with it. Audibly or for competition, both can excel over each other.

Also, post where u are located and of our members on here may be able to personally help as well.

can u make a video of 30fps? Also, describe what it isn't doing that you are expecting? If you are lacking lowend, try tuning the subsonic down just a little but i don't think that's your complaint though. The subs are in their recommended enclosure - 4 cuft per sub @32hz... I would go over the box and make sure you have absolutely no air leaks. Check and see if the clip light ever comes on... If it's not coming on, u need to crank it up some more. Also, can u make a vid of the clip light? I know that sounds stupid but maybe you are being to safe... I try to almost scare people from clipping their subs because i figure they still might turn it up just a little past what they should... We can go from there.

Actually, i care less bout subs gettin damaged, i want to make sure my batteries aren't damaged! Heh, stopped off the collision center today to pick up my garage door opener and they got my car parked directly in the center of the repair building... It's makin me wonder if they plan on demoing my wall? They aren't gonna get far though cuz i got it set to put out no bass, hehe. The universal master gain controller is turned all the way down and is mounted underneath the dash...

base your decision on what room you have because it's gonna come down to the box design. the 12s need 5cuft NET and the 18 is gonna want a little more. They both can dig into the lows just fine.

Nope.. i got the best one ever... or at least for a while. I was just in an accident yesterday morning when some lady wasn't payin attention and slammed on her brakes and caused me to hit her. My car's in the shop now prob for a week or so but when the guy was out there markin the damage area down, i told him this- I know it's not anywhere near the impact area, BUT can you have someone inspect the pulley system and MAKE SURE the belt is on tight and nothing is loose because i got a show to go to in 2 weeks and i need to make sure the alternator is still in top notch shape.

my car uses toyota parts so maybe i can give u some ideas. Besides the typical plastic pieces that just pop out... Look for small door cover around door handle and any part of the arm rest that is being "Acccented" for no reason whatsoever... Sometimes, little designs in the arm rest have screws behind them so they need to be popped off with a flathead screwdriver to reveal screws. Try to see fi u can pop off any part of the armrest to reveal any screws.

yep but goin in a cherokee and want some good potential out of this box. I normally would go smaller as most would but you will get a lot of pressure out of a design like this. Space was not an issue but i didnt want it very tall either.

if u are unsure if the baffle can handle speaker weight... before installing sub(s), install cross bracing from the baffle to the back FIRST and secure it tightly. then once all that is done, then mount your subs. (this isn't recommended for THIS box in this thread as it would only cause port flow restriction.) However, some subs like the new sundown sub that is coming out is so heavy that it needs support for the motor just to disperse it's weight so it doesn't rip out of the baffle. this was shown few months ago but there are other ways around that happening... The baffle, if already cross-braced, should have had 1\4" allthread run through each mounting hole of every sub and secured from the other side, and GLUED onto the back baffle to secure it if ever needed to be uninstalled. This wouldn't put pressure on just the screws but the entire baffle itself. Having put pressure on baffle would be bad.. but when braced properly, then there is nothing to worry about in that situation either. I believe the baffle should be fine with this design on single baffle. It doesnt hrut to add an extra layer to the outside if the user wants too but i've had 45lb subs mounted to a single baffle wider that this without bracing without problems so i don't really see a BTL which doesnt way no more than 10-20lbs heavier than the sub i used in example to make a difference but it doesnt hurt to add if he so pleases. Another example- My wall My wall holds 4 15s(33lbs each) on a double baffle and each sub cutout only has about 1.5" apart from each other. When i first picked it up.. that baffle was so light and drilled so close together.. many people thought it would just fold on me... IT probably would have if no cross bracing was used. This example is more severe of a time to brace a wall.. Such small thin wood between each cut out. After running 3 3\4" allthread runs through the baffle, this baffle is so strong, i bet i could hold 4 Level 4 XLs in it no problem and they are almost 60lb per sub... Now, the level 5s, hehe i prob have to redo the baffle for them.. They 80lb per sub,

i dont know if u read through this post but i decided not to go through with it. I did some research and found out that most of the time when video encoding, each additional socket only adds about 17% more speed to the whole process so a waste of money... It's ironic you post your pc specs because i gotta build a gaming rig for somebody somewhat like yours. Asus Rampage II with an i7 2.6ghz that wil be OC'ed to around 3.6-3.8ghz within the first 60 days of use and 6gb of Xtreme Corsair Dominator DDR3 sticks, these babies are over $230 so they better be a good OC'er. This board accepts both Crossfire AND SLI but being the new crossfire fan i am when i used to only run nvidia, he's gonna get a 4850 graphics card. Pretty decent goin from AGP and not breakin the wallet much at all. For the OC tweak, we will be installin a $155 air cooled system on the socket to ensure utmost stability using air. I like to modify the surrounding cooling area as well just like in SPL to try and gain cooler temps while Oc'ing to get the best possible. Those GTX285s.... i'm sure they weren't cheap! And speakin of future proofing, i dont know if the sockets will change but i do know that by the end of 2011, Intel is suppose to have 10 or 12core consumer chips on market.

when i mention using dual cards previously, it was pointing towards gaming. benchmarks i've seen are not impressive increases for the FPS. video encoding .. i am unsure of... maybe nvidia would know?

I wouldnt see why not.. The effective bandwith is within the suggested parameters for a sealed box... but Rusty would know best.

glue pieces together with TiteBond, Seal the seams first with Liquid Nails. Once that dries, go back over it with Silicone. Screw screws in every 3-4inches for close holding, predrill all holes prior.

From what many i've heard this from- Optimas have a higher ESR which is a turn off for competition. If u want first hand experience, ask Scottie in the Powermaster forum. He used to run over 50 at once.

well, the sub would fire directly into the port by the time the port length ended. Definitely do not want that.

what? lol. Did you mean to post that? it doesnt fit with the conversation...