shizzzon

i do not believe he is a real person. i have already reported him once today.

so you are suggesting that even though the port i use now doesn't do well when played below 50hz to force the box to peak at a lower note and see what happens? I've never thought about that but i guess i could try it. I use interchangeable ports so port area would remain the same.

well, i peak at 50hz in the car and when testing outside the car, i also peak at 50hz... I thought that an open environment would change the outside peak but it didnt... i'm still stuck at 50hz outside. I custom make music to peak at 50hz but the loudest i ever got was a 123.1 outside. I dont know how to make it any better since i run a wall with 4 15s.

That's illegal talk! If it's money, go get u 8 Deka 9A31s. If it's space, go get u some Group 8Ds If it's weight, Air ride that Bish!

Too much power? hehe, i've never heard of such.

never fuse the negative wiring unless strictly told too. Some devices use a positive ground.. not in car audio though that i am familiar with. The underbody lights i have on my car uses a positive ground, therefore, must be fused. To wire from front battery to rear, do the following- From front battery, once wire starts leaving this battery, place fusewithin 18" of the battery... run your wire to the other battery... ifthis new battery is different from your starting battery, install asolenoid at this point to prolong the life of your battery... thenwithin 18" of your rear battery, place another fuse here. Ground your starting battery with a larger ground run or even multiple runs to the car. Do the same to your rear battery. I'm not gonna argue with u or anyone else in this topic but just to state that this is the exact copy of what was posted and what's in bold\colored can be in no way confused with car audio and "lights" together... I just don't see the confusion. You telling me i should have explained it to him.. I did... that's what is in green.

I believe the reference to me saying strictly is the purpose as telling someone to remember to fuse your power wire going to your amp, battery, etc... As in, it isn't like someone has a choice as to either fuse the power line or to fuse the ground line... Strictly = no choice but the right wire. In car audio case, power line is fused for everything i've ever seen too.

It doesn't matter what exactly you were referring to, there are some cases in the automotive world that some products use positive grounds. When i first got my lights in, i thought they accidentally put the fuse on the wrong wire and i was about to swap the fuse to the other wire... but after doing research, i found out why. not everything in the automotive world is the same and the lights i was referring to are strictly for automotive use. If you never find out... how are you suppose to know? I really dont understand the reason why u posted at all... I already stated that i do not know if any car audio products use a positive ground because i have never used every single piece of equipment in history from all around the world and also stated how it should be wired all in the same post.

regardless of how much power you have in your car, i would never suggest falling below 12.5v. That's my personal threshold. If i see anyone ever drop any lower, need either larger alt and\or more batteries. But for you, big 3 is suggested since your power draw shouldnt be all that much.

Some european products i use require the ground to be fused because it uses positive ground. Why even argue the point of proving why or why not to fuse a non-positive ground? That question is gonna start confusing people. Technically- if someone wanted to fuse the ground for the hell of it... that will add resistance which can cause voltage drop or amp to heat up a little. If the fuse pops due to excessive current draw... that's a waste of money to replace because it shouldnt even be there! And who would tell someone to fuse the ground? The companies that use positive grounds.

if u dont mind waitin til this weekend i can help you.

if u dont mind, can u tell me any tips about driveby?

you dont think u can make it? what about mdizzle?

how big was your last box, NET? If you take a 15 out, multiple things will happen if your score changes.... If your score goes up or down, it's because of- Larger NET volume per sub Port velocity will decrease Port tuning will drop by about 2 hz Sub's phasing may change Take these into account when your score changes and see what made it change.

if those are 15s, you should experiment with about 120-250sqin of square port or 75-150sqin for Aeros.

u need more port area or more power if u wanna keep increasing.

here's one of the newer ones- http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn147/shizzzon/?action=view&current=VIDEO0042.flv

from your port area, yea, you'll definitely have an increase! From your box itself, u need about 3.5-4cuft GROSS to get great output from a 12. See if 32-40sqin can work for your box. Or... just for fun, give me your max dimensions and i'll tell\show u what can fit.

having your sub inverted may be part of why it's lacking... For daily use - You would want 32sqin for that box. Personally, i would want that box in 2.2-2.5cubes NET with 40sqin of port.

what u guys are referring to shouldnt be the problem. He said his subs dont sound as loud and there is whistling in his highs now.... When the preouts go all crazy like that, they dont work at all until they are regrounded. it's possible one of your subs is either damaged or disconnected somewhere. When searching for the answer to the whistling, first unhook all rcas going into all amps and see if that fixes it. Next, plug one set up at a time and retest until the noise comes back to determine what is causing it.

i cant remember what it is called but what you are smelling is more than likely a spray that gets sprayed inside of the amps when they are completed. There are 2 different scents that is commonly used. One is the smell you are probably smelling and the other is like a new fresh smell.

his name is phoenix27

If you guys want some great info about kerfing from someone who knows how to do it and been for a while, contact member - "Jay-C76" I haven't seen him on here though in quite a while so hopefully he's still around.

i've never owned optima, all i've ever heard is bad... What i've always heard is they have horrible IR(internal resistance). If you want to get the facts from someone who used to use over 50 of them at one time.. contact Scottie Johnson in the XS Powermaster subforum and ask him about them.

I have ran Audioque for quite a few years before they went overseas but that doesn't mean that things started to fail either... The HDC3 line is stated to be more efficient than the USA version, the HD3 line. I never did a comparison so i don't know the difference. However, this is what i do know about the HDC3 line because I also used to run 2 of the Copper Coil 12s. Audioque subs, in general, are HEAVILY underrated just like many other speakers on the market. It all depends on how you set your gains and monitor your equipment. My impressions on the HDC3 sub- It doesn't take a lot of power to get the sub to produce a decent sound. At only 500w available, this sub still sounds fantastic. Well rounded response is expected. Unlike other subwoofers, due to the long excursion capabilities of the speaker, it is recommended to tune higher than other speakers. Why? because it's going to be hard to get a flat response from this speaker by tuning very low because if you attempt to, your mid 40hz+ range is going to roll off quite fast. Tuning to 38hz is the well rounded suggested frequency to get both your favorite low end with that chest pounding, hard to breathe, 40-50hz range. Anything tuned below 35hz is highly expected to not have a great effect in the mid 40hz range and higher. The HDC3 line is quite heavy for a 1000wrms rated speaker too. The 12, weighing in at 48.5lbs is definitely a monster! Most other subs in it's thermal rating category weigh approximately 15lbs lighter. the HDC3 line also has a GREAT cooling system! When I owned my pair of 12s, after several months of owning them, i took them to several non-sanctioned competitions and purposely put them through severe abuse and during my own testing as well. I ran them with an AQ2200d per subwoofer(2200w to each subwoofer). In one of my abusive tests, i set the gain control on both amps to full clipped signal and played a competition testing track that consisted of tones from 65 - 32hz that lasted for just over 3min straight! By the time the track was over... the entire car smelt like a house burned down! It was crazy aweful... BUT... subs that can take that kind of heat abuse for that long with double the power is just amazing. Here is a list of power recommendations used for the HDC3 line- ~1200w or less usually will keep the sub within it's xmax rating and will allow this sub to still sound great. Once you leave the linear excursion capabilties, the sounds changes drastically and sounds clipped. People must also note that when the sub breaks into the Xmech area that the pressure levels exhibited will be pretty high and most users aiming for such pressure levels do not care about how it sounds because the way how our ears perceive sound, depending on the pressure level, may appear to sound distorted when it's too hard to tell in actuality. ~1201-2,400w of power can be used on music with light to moderate clipping levels. At this power level, one isn't really concerned about how good of sound the sub can put out and is primarily looking to see how much power the sub can handle and this is it. If you run more power, you need to upgrade to the Aluminum coils which can take up to 4kw but that's not going to be in this review. For burps... It's hard to rate a sub for burps due to many variables but it has been known that the original HD3 line could handle 6kw with ease so the HDC3 Copper line should also be able to as well. When playing these subs on daily, as long as the gains are set right and are not purposely trying to kill it, lol, the subs will always stay cool which amazes me with how much power they can handle. When using these for burps, they STILL stay cool even when clipped! I have only been able to heat the subs up when bassracing for over 60seconds straight using an AQ2200d per sub. Box requirements for HDC3s are little bigger than some companies but do not let that discourage you from choosing them for slightly smaller enclosures. The 12s are suggested to be in 2.5cuft NET but that's not the only box they can work in. The box ratings AQ recommends is for the largest optimal box with decent power on hand. They suggest the following- 10" - 1.5cubes 12" - 2.5cubes 15" - 4.5cubes 18" - 6.0cubes Now, you can do the following- 10" - 1.0cubes 12" - 1.9cubes 15" - 3.5cubes 18" - 5.0cubes For the price to performance you get, it's just straight amazing at how loud these get yet how great they can sound with less power. These subs were never intended to be for audiophiles looking for that perfect sound. These subs were made just like the rest of their equipment is built for the crazy or just loud daily driver looking to pound the hell out of their car with massive bass. AQ offers recones and will either ship you the recone or will do it for you. They can also rebuild your subs to any other marketed size they have to offer. They have great customer service as well. Their subs also use direct connect speaker runs using 8awg wire so no speaker terminals! Some other companies have started doing this not too long ago. The purpose is lower resistance(no terminal) so possibly higher numbers in the lanes. AQ subs are also known for having high inductance too. You may have heard of some people talk about this. This means that the sub wil typically exhibit high impedance rise. High impedance rise is actually good rather than bad from my point of view. This means that it can create massive pressure levels and draw less power out of your electrical system at the same time. The other positive side is you can use this to your advantage and run amps far lower than their rated stable load to even get more power shot through these subwoofers. I would never recommend doing that for daily though. Overall, if you are looking for a subwoofer or subwoofers for ground pounding bass for your music, these are the subs! If you are looking for that perfect front stage\mids and bass to all fall in together... there are, of course, plenty of other options out there to choose from as the HDC3 line is not the intended use for such goal. Also, if you plan on competing and have the weight capacity for a large amount of cone area, these subs will not kill your bank account but will kill the meter with proper box designs.