shizzzon

it's not hard, lol. Basically, u just set your head unit up and all that, turn both gains on amps just under half way up... let the tone start playing but have the head unit volume up like half way then have someone else turn the volume up so u know the sub can take it without moving too much then turn it back down, the hu's volume. Now, you turn it up to it's maximum listening level, blast the tone and immediately start adjusting the gains on both amps til they output the exact same voltage. You must be turning them together as turning just one will effect the other. Once they are pretty damn close, you are done. I would be aiming for around 43v per amp during playback. If u just cant do it for some reason, pay the $115 and buy u a Maxxlink and it'll do it for you.

start listing EVERYTHING you have done to the truck, i care nothing about the audio system right now, just the truck.

you must have an oscope to properly setup an amp in the first place. If u do not have one of those, then u can match them via multimeter to make sure they both put out the exact same voltage on the speaker terminals. Note - do this with a test tone playing. as an example and a somewhat guesstimate of what u should be lookin for- 35v is what it should be if it was actually seeing a true 1 ohm load during play but it wont so the voltage reading will probably be higher... Not suppose to be but that's just what happens typically with amps. So.. as an example, instead of aiming for 35v, aim for somethin like 43v even on both amps. It's gonna get LouD, trust me. You are not to this stage yet and will have forgotten what i tell u here when u get there. Come back and ask or just PM me when the time comes! You are gonna need 2 DMMs (digital multimeters) to do this and the amps need to be adjusted together, not individually.

different lights give off different lumen values. They have EVERY single spec u can think of about all their lights on that site somewhere because they make em.

yes it will and all the subs i named off WILL handle the power fine as long as you set the amp's up right and not clip the hell out of them all the time.

so u need a powerful dual 1 ohm 18.. there's the Fi BTL, AQ HDC3 Aluminum Coil, Nightshade, DC Level4 XL, IA Death Penalty...

yes u can, they need to be gain matched so dont just set the gain in the same position on both amps!question - are those amps 1 or 2 ohm stable?

because using double baffle, u only have 8.46cubes.. when u really need about 10cubes gross for 2 15s.if the dimensions u gave me are undr the window line then it WILL BE!

i dont suggest running 2 15s ported in the space you have.i would suggest a single 18 ported. in the right size and port area, a single 18 should fill your truck up with ease! we have some people who can break 150s with a single 18 under 2kw so its highly suggested for your best potential.

Maybe that's how it makes it's 3000w of power... although Bursting INTO Flames... sounds like US amps only does 3000w with an unclean signal, Can we say heat buildup?

no, i would at first say check to make sure your box isn't falling apart but since you said it does this in free air... then it definitely sounds like the former is damaged

the only time i ever do that is if someone is just being annoying. Now, if i can hear them pretty good and it's not really resonating my car, then i dont care but if they are stopped and just blastin it... a few sec run will give them a lot more to think about.. My friends at work, we like to play around with my stereo sometimes seein how far throughout our building we can feel the pressure generated from my car.. it goes clear across the whole building and this building is over 250ft long. Anyways, one time i pulled up next to my friend who was listenin to a song in the morning and when i pulled up, he started laughin, waited a few more seconds... then rolled up his window and shut his vehicle off and proceeded to go into the building with me. I was askin what was so funny. He said that he was "tryin" to listen to Lynyrd Skynyrd but as soon as i parked next to him, he couldnt hear a single part of the song anymore.. It 100% drowned out his entire factory stereo... I thought that was pretty impressive and funny at the same time. My friend's wife came to pick up another one of the guys at work one time and we had a big ass lifter in the parking lot that was lifting people up on the roof to do some work and a couple forklifts on the outside as well. When i got off, one of the workers was admiring my car and asked what all i had done to it... I told him i got the audio done to it and he was kinda confused about that answer so i go hold on just a second. I put on some Bone and 2 other guys popped up on the roof to find out where that was commin from and my friend's wife thought somebody done started up some sort of industrial vehicle and was commin her way, i was laughin my ass off when she told us that.

i bet u can run more power to a sub at a higher ohm load than a lower ohm load in regards to the tinsel leads and coil handling the current because the current would be lower at higher ohm loads than at lower... Take the BPX2200.1 JBL amp. It outputted it's power i believe anywhere between 4-8ohms but when metering the output on the terminals, the output would always read an 8 ohm load even if it wasn't truly... So, in theory, you could run that baby, 2200w at only 17A of current and the coil windings and tinsel leads would just laugh... 17A on a 1 ohm load is only 289w... BIG DIFFERENCE.. 289w vs 2200w yet the same current travel. Long time ago when i first purchased an AQ sub, i had talked to DJ about this technology jbl\crown was using in hopes people could run extremely large amounts of power to their subs without worry of coil\tinsel lead failure and just have to control movement for short burps. It is interesting but i believe that's what he means, because lower loads produce higher current, it puts more stress on the windings and leads which can result in a burnt coil or spider depending on how the tinsel leads are ran.

lol, i'm not changing my setup, i was just doing designs in case i ever wanted to during the comp season. The design above has failed expectations because the rear chamber is going to act is a 90 degree elbow for the port which will actually cut internal volume down 60% which is a no go for me. Unless i can think of something, the next design i do is gonna have the entire car behind the B pillar layered in MDF and i'll build my setup from within.

Yay.... Bring the Noise!

oh and shotgun, lol. Do you not wish to compete?

is 8pm back at in Louisville fine? Once metering starts, typically it's about 3 hrs of judging. Metering starts at 2pm... If hardly anybody shows up for all events, it should be quicker.

meh... clipping doesnt shut off the amp. when an amp cuts off without you actually looking at it when it does, it's usually due to the following- Protection circuit engaged because... Low Voltage Thermal limit Short circuit Other reasons- Speaker wire loose Tinsel leads loose\damaged wrong wiring configuration(wrong ohm load) wire other than speaker wire is loose - remote, ground, power, etc... (also fuse connection) If it's none of those... and u still don't know what it is... get more info about the problem and present it.

i dont think u would be clipping it when u did the free air test. The sub has more potential to bottom out first than receive a clipped signal from that 750.1 unless you were playing midbass notes only when you did the free-air test. Well, i'll be looking forward to that video.

yes u should considering you have a dual 2 ohm sub. If you have a multimeter, get it out, touch probes together so u can get inaccuracy reading off of them if reads above 0.0(just subtract the number u get from the actual reading) and then touch these probes on the amp's speaker terminal when the stereo is OFF. IF you get a reading of around 0.6-1 ohm, that's why it's cutting off... if it's 1.2-1.8ohm, you have a coil out or disconnected but would not contribute to why you have problems, if you are reading 2.8-3.9, you have it wired correctly.

ok calm down, i dont like to help people in "all fields", hehe. Well, i dont have time to draw the aeroport design right now because the box specs would be different but if u are interested in building the design, PM me for specs and other information.

yes, subs fire on both sides of the car, the box is slightly shrunk to allow more airflow around the box. the port fires into the cabin area.

yep, 107sqin of port, 16.5" high x 6.5" wide guaranteed to damage somethin in the car, Would you like to see an aeroport version? Gimme a few moments while i design one.

ok here it is... hold your breathe... The width has been shrunk to allow more room for the subs to breathe around the enclosure.

this picture i'm bout to show you is NOT interchageable because i dont think u ever mentioned the need for one. However, if u need one, i can do a revised version of the following picture you'll see in a minute with 2 6" aeros. Gimme 2 minutes for the pic.