shizzzon

Haha, no... He's got foam everywhere.

ok, i'm completely retarded.. the topic battery or cap.. Go buy you a large bank of caps and a very good high output alternator...don't bother on buying any extra batteries, hell who needs those anyway. Topic clearly states battery or cap.. it seems a cap is the way to go apparently... Even tests i mentioned must be wrong... I need to pull all my XS batts out of my car and start runnin pure caps because whenever a thread like this is brought up... a cap is suppose to be used as an addon, not a replacement but i guess i'm wrong there too.

you should start with the largest box possible then start shrinking it until u dont gain any more. Same way with your port too in terms of length.

well, i have 2/0 ran to my amps and 3/0 from front to rear. Before stinger stopped makin it, they said 350A was the maximum current that could be ran through their 3/0 cable at 17ft. I dont know how that translates into 3ft...

a well known competitor in MECA in the drive by section represents a local shop in my area as his team name is the shops name... Anyways, i met this conceited guy the other day... god, what a douchebag... I respect the shop he represents because his kids went to the same school i did so know them pretty good and that's their business but this guy that represents them is so.. man, he deserves to be smacked. How conceited do u got to be to tell me my XS Powermaster batteries are crap, in his own words, and i should go with his local $50 group 31 hookup on batteries he sells to his friends when after doin research, he's sellin rebadged and sometimes refurbed batts with no known specs other than group 31.. He then tells me to train my batts so they hold a 13.8v charge for comp use or i'm not gonna do good... yea ok... then one of his friends tells me to wire my 2 xs batts in series for a quick monsterous burp at 26v.... See what i mean? This guy has by far killed the image of this shop since every trophy in the shop is by him and his conceited ass decisions.... He did a 132 in driveby couple yrs ago. He's not completely dumb in the field but he doesnt do the builds... He has someone else cut hit pieces cuz he is lazy and just wants to glue them in... Give me a break... What is this, lazy spl now.. There is another shop close or in E-town Called Audio-to-Go. I never go there but i hear the people who run it all used to compete for a LONG time and sell some pretty good reputable brands.

i already deleted them, besides, they wouldnt work trust me.

ok both designs require more space.. i'll look more into this later.

ok, idea 1 just got tossed out the window... now for idea 2- How wide is your trunk from wheel well to wheel well and how deep is it from the cabin opening to the trunk lid and can u guarantee me 18" of height in there?

hey man, whats mounting depth for that 15?

so 50"? i already got 2 design plans i'm drawin out, hold on

hmm... how wide is your car where the back seats used to be?

that's what i figured. u cant gain DBeez with a dirty rag in the trunk! Get that outta there!! lol This is what u do- Build 2 boxes, one for each 15. Fire the sub and port both toward the trunk. Have the baffle about level with the rear deck. Make both sub boxes fire the same way but leave a good amount of space in between each box in the middle... I don't know, maybe 15-20" of width... Seal the Entire top and around the sides of the boxes. You ONLY want the air flow to come back down the center of the boxes. this will allow your whole trunk to be a loading area and come back and blow your car up on the meter. If you really wanna do somethin crazy, after you seal it up, layer a piece of wood over both boxes secured and play around with the length of this piece. The only way out through that tunnel can act as a port if you want it too by using this piece of wood... It may help or it may not. If u got access to a meter.. it would let u know.

take a picture of the inside of your car from the front seat showing the space where your back seats used to be and your entire trunk space and i'll show you something secret

in my opinion, you do not have enough equipment to benefit from a wall... A wall needs lots of cone area, lots of port and lots of power... You have none.. Sure some people may run with just 2 subs in a wall but with massive amounts of power... You'd be better off keeping a loading area and rebuilding an enclosure possibly rear-firing for a loading area so u can break a 150.

you'll be lucky to ever get them moving a lot. They expect a large amount of power so unless your box is extremely large or u are running 10kw+, the suspension is gonna stay stiff for a long time.

they've been around for a good 2yrs that i know of at least. They can handle a good 4-6kw for daily

no wall = loading area wall = less volume Walls are a better choice if u know you are gonna surpass the potential of what a no-wall has to offer. By using a no-wall, you are limited by cone area so u can only get so loud... If u can get those 4 12s in a loading area without a wall, then it should most definitely be louder.

http://www.mecacaraudio.com/flyers/10-24-09KYv3.pdf Who's going? This is one of the many first 2x events of the 2010 competing season and probably the 1st sanctioned one i'll be attending. So.. if any one of u guys want to come see a walled Scion tC, i'll more than likely be there.

hmm, do us(me and u) a favor... See if u can find any other setup designs with these subs on youtube or somethin and see if u can get volume and port area used.. I just dont want to suggest a large port area and then your subs start unloading like crazy during burps.

Air Suspension System For its revolutionary 3.25 inch deep Shallow Subwoofer, Pioneer createdan Air Suspension system effective within a 70% smaller-than-previousenclosure that locks air for a spring-like effect between main anddrive cones moving in unison. The result is consistentlyclear,powerful,wide ranging bass response. The subwoofer's dual conestructure maintains better sound linearity and reliability after hoursof hard use than conventional subwoofers with "spider" structures tokeep the voice coil aligned. This incredible technology is applied tothis new generation of high output, high performance subwoofers. It's on your subs. The only thing i'm afraid of is Pioneer suggests to use small enclosures with REAL small port openings for these types of subs... It makes me wonder if it's because they will unload sooner than other woofers. This si why i don't know a great port size to suggest to you. You can always try to call Pioneer and see what they say for competition use but i doubt they would know.

you should stick with stinger starting battery as well if using stinger rear battery so u don't have to purchase a solenoid to prolong the life of your batteries. Also, this is gonna be iffy so i'm not gonna suggest it now but if you start getting dimming not long after u install your 1,500w-2,000w setup, you will need an alternator upgrade. Keep tabs on your voltage levels before starting your car every now and then as well. I think you'd like the BLs. Either way, you'd be happy i'm sure since you're upgrading both subs and power together. Before going with 2 15s though, make sure you have the room! 2 15s will typically require almost twice as much room as 2 12s do.

thats better. I have a question, do these subs you chose use that air spring suspension? Because if they do, if i'm not mistaken, i think these subs will do better on lower volume and lower port area.. I could be wrong but i think they might unload sooner with a big ass port. Is this for daily? if it is, this build will be easier to decide.

give me your most squared measurements of height, width and depth. Let me know how thick you want the walls and baffle. I can sketch up a design and post my thoughts on what u can do with the room you have.

That's not a wall... Are you installing this where the back seats are or back in the hatch area?

never fuse the negative wiring unless strictly told too. Some devices use a positive ground.. not in car audio though that i am familiar with. The underbody lights i have on my car uses a positive ground, therefore, must be fused. To wire from front battery to rear, do the following- From front battery, once wire starts leaving this battery, place fuse within 18" of the battery... run your wire to the other battery... if this new battery is different from your starting battery, install a solenoid at this point to prolong the life of your battery... then within 18" of your rear battery, place another fuse here. Ground your starting battery with a larger ground run or even multiple runs to the car. Do the same to your rear battery.