shizzzon

acoustastuff would be a wise suggestion for increased low end, make it common chamber, need as much internal space as possible. Minimal bracing will suffice, nothing crazy and no fiberglassing necessary either. make sure the box is LOOSELY stuffed, do not squeeze acoustastuff(bought from partsexpress.com) or it will decrease internal air space. Loosely pack about as much as possible until you reach the subs then stop. You want most of the volume filled in it. If you want to keep pullin the subs and and back in to test different sounds with the stuff you can but the volume should mostly be loosely filled. DO NOT use it for ported because the box is WAY too small for it to help. waste of potential to even try.

Fi doesnt even recommend sealed but the size of box you would have would be on par for some 15s sealed, just a tad bigger than 2 typical 15s sealed. I'm sure it will play lows but nothing crazy. I'm tellin ya, he made a very bad mistake. He needs to sell them and get 2 12s, ported if he wants the best for his space. Otherwise anything i or anyone else that properly suggests other options is gonna be on the "not recommended but try it" side.

huh? If you bought the maxxlink, you'd only have to tune 1 thing, if u don't buy it, you have to tune each amp at a time while it's blasting... Oh, and while it's cranked, once all 4 gains are set, you must go back and recheck them and by then, i hope the subs aren't cookin yet. What you need to do is turn gains just past half way so they are all outputting some hefty power. That way they are all doing there job so to speak with slight variations. If you keep the other gains down while tuning one at a time, they wont be gain matched right at all! It's tricky... Drive down to KY, i'll gain match em, hehe.

Seal them is your only option. If you port those, the tuning peak will be in the 60s probably.

like i said before, 2 12s, STOP suggesting 15s unless he plans to run 1. Port and sub displacement alone for 2 15s is around 1.5-2.5 cubes leaving around 4-5 cubes NET...

i use just a PAC Audio remote gain controller to control both my 3500ds together. I just gain match them properly first then i'm good. if that rockford device can do it then it'd be fine. You must have patience because gain matching is stressful on the subs. You must have all 4 amps going at once and start tuning them while in play... If you don't want to do that, the maxxlink may be a better option for you.

all it is is taking 1 main signal and dispersing it to your amps. It's remote control controls all 4 amps at once. It also is a line driver just in case u have a low signal. People who gained by using this means that they didn't have there amps gain matched. If you read through my build log i gained pretty good number just by properly gain matching my amps. People who run multiple bass amps sometimes think the gain control should be set in the same position for all amps... this is false. That is probably why most people gain due to that false belief.

yes. Just gotta realize that there will be sealant on the sub when you pull it out. If u ever want to sell the sub, gotta get the goo off before the buyer thinks speaker pr0n is the real thing!!

it doesnt matter, you STILL need 2 D3100s, lol. The variation in current draw is less than 15A on average

it's not glue, it's sealant. all you would have to do is just give it a little tug and the sealant will "unbond" with the sub.

For someone who thinks batteries all the time(me), u ever heard of Rolls Surrette batteries? As far as my knowledge goes, they make the LARGEST batteries i have ever seen in my life. 375aH 12v Group 8D battery! 2 8vs in series- 846aH = over 840lbs of weight! I do not know the prices because they must be personally requested but their batts are field serviceable! ALL cells in all their batts are bolted together! Meaning if a single cell ever died, you can unbolt it and replace it with a new 2v cell.

LOL... You KNOW you have a car audio addiction when the electric forklift at your work dies and have serious discussions about the capability of rewiring the batts in your car to a higher voltage rate so u can dump the charge from your batts into your work's forklift to keep working, haha.

i hope u havent got the 18s yet... The room you have would be perfect and "louder" for 2 12s! If u already got em.. i'm done...

there have been some that were custom made for somebody. Reason being is the motor is wider than the sub itself so you would have to do some fancy mounting.

at 2 ohm! OH NO!!! hehe. At 2 ohm for the 125 and bridged on the 100... you would need 235aH

if u need anymore, link is in my sig. I got way more than you can handle.

the "rule of thumb" is to take your fuse ratings on your amps, divide them in half and that's your aH requirement. I added 60aH more for the car's starting batt as that's about average. The 100.4 and 125.2, i'm sure you are gonna be running those at 4 ohm so i took half it's rated power at 4 ohm rather than the fuse rating.

Alpine IVA-W505. Just go buy the Blackbird II whenever... Gonna run ya just over $1000 after the gps add-on but Alpine is the way to go...

try to save ya some money- This company is great for AGM use - http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-1000a.html don't just go to a local store and buy an agm charger... some charge over 15v and isn't safe and some charge close to 15v constant which slightly degrades life of agm batteries as well. This is the cheap alternative to spending a fortune on a suggested charger.

i'm sure it can with a minimal 200A alt, preferably a 250

That's not wise for longevity. Did they change the rectifier, cooling, etc...? If all they did is rewind it like nearly all local shops do then yea, it will do the amperage at max output, but idle will be VERY BAD compared to reputable companies and heat buildup will be worse than having one built from start.

that goes to show u how undercharged they were using stock alt. Using stock alt and only reading 13.1 as soon as alt is shut off is BAD... Either the batts were heavily discharged or the regulator was on the verge of breaking.

if replacing the stock battery, you will need the following- 200-220A alt, 2 D3100s Or 200-220A alt and a minimum of 220aH of battery total in the car. Remember, try and never jam at idle. The more reserve you have in batts, the longer it takes to charge and more risk u run of overheating alternator if batts are discharged low.

try 40ft at 4.5ft wide. Not all fabric comes in the same width so figure out the area.

box was too big, port too big, subsonic set too low... Sounds like you bottomed out your sub and damaged it. Power ratings on speakers are thermal ratings, not mechanical. Companies cannot give you mechanical ratings EVEN if they told you what box to put it in because there are still other variables involved such as amp settings, impedance rise, box dimensions for volume suggested, etc...